2020 df 350

[Plumber1969]

I recently started having issues when flushing the engine in a flushing tank. The motor will shut off after 5 minutes and restart a few times on its own. The temperature is 135 - 145 and there is no codes. The water separator is clear. The water in the tank is just below the anti ventilation plate and it is covering the water pick up but the lower unit around the ventilation plate is warm to the touch. The motor had its 100 hour service in May. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[Murray]

Add more water to your tank, you want the water pump completely submerged. Check your link above, brings me to an advertisement.

[Plumber1969]

Not sure about why I would have a link. Any idea what these holes do? Exhaust or excess water from the water pump? Inked32789 (1)_LI.jpg

[Murray]

No mention of those holes in your owners manual? That is about where your water pump would sit so I’m GUESSING those holes are for draining. Exhaust is out the centre of the prop. Check your owners manual (or wait till another forum member confirms) If the holes are for draining then you want to bring the water level above those holes. When your are on the water are those holes submerged?

[Plumber1969]

Yes they are submerged and I've never had the issue before until this past weekend in the tank flushing it. I am going to bring it to the water tomorrow evening and let it run for awhilke and see if I can make it happen again or if it as anolmoly. I will look through the manual again and see if I can identify anything else. Thank you so much for your help.

[Murray]

Then you will need to submerge those holes while running in a tank. Personally I prefer “ear muffs” while running on a trailer, way easier than messing with a tank IMO.

[Plumber1969]

The 350 does not accept ear muffs. The water pick up is dead center of the lower unit facing the bow of the boat and there are a couple on either side of the lower unit but none that would accept the traditional style muffs. I only fish salt water and the flush port on the back of the unit does not allow the T stat to open and fully flush the motor that I am aware of. Normally after about 5 minutes I can feel the water temperature increasing from the tattle tale when the t stat opens. I have a mechanic ready to meet me Thursday afternoon to hook a computer up to it if necessary. I would hate to miss a 3 day fishing weekend but my wife wont go offshore with a suspect motor.

[Murray]

I didn’t realize that your engine wouldn’t accept muffs. I would think that Suzuki would have a bypass of some sort when flushing through the flush port. Your mechanic should be able to confirm. On my engine DF90A (2009) the tell tale exits out the mid unit before the water circulates through the block and never gets hot, it will get warm but never hot. I wonder if Suzuki has changed the telltale routing? When running in a barrel I would think the lower unit would get warm from the exhaust and the hot cooling water from the engine heating up the barrel water.

[Plumber1969]

I just posted in the WW sticky and may have identified a problem/solution. The engine did not want to start yesterday at the boat ramp. Cycled the batteried (both tested good) and it finally started and ran great for about an hour. Got home, no fire at all fromthe start/stop switch. I will do some investigation on this white wire issue as it seems my issues are electrically related. Thank you for your help.

[Plumber1969]

I never want to be one of those guys who does not update what he has found out about his issues. I used the KISS method and found this... and a new one is on its way - $400. It is the start/stop switch on the fly by wire models. Single engine control panel assembly #37100-98J11

[D'oh999]

where is the water temp? in the barrel@ 135-140 degrees?

[Plumber1969]

Water temps stayed around 145ish. Problem was trhe switch, cleaned the old one up and I did get it to start up but the new should be here this week.