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My Original post 5 seasons ago:
I need some thoughts and ideas.
My original engine was a 2001 DF 115. I encountered the classic engine holder corrosion, along with a blown head gasket. I spent 4 months doing what Egorena is going thru. I gave up and decided to buy a new to me powerhead. I found one on ebay with real low hours and it included the engine holder and oil pan, but nothing else (ie electrical, intake, fuel injection, etc).
My challenge: Building what has been dubbed "Frankenzuki". The new low hour powerhead is a 2004. I picked up a ECU of Ebay for a DF140 that's a 2005. My original flywheel was not compatible, so it's been replaced with 2006 Johnson 140. I used the original stator, wiring harness, rectifier, fuel injectors, intake.
Final result:
Frankenzuki is ALIVE! (CLICK FOR VIDEO)
I took my "Frankenzuki" to the lake yesterday and she ran great! Best of all, no water in the oil after several hours of running it hard.
So here are my issues I do need to work thru.
1) It's idling a little low, I guessing around 450 rpm's
2) At around 1200 rpm's and in gear, the engine would surge a little off and on up to 1500 rpm's.
3) I am still using the DF115's hood. Is this bad?
4) I had to use the 2004 DF140 sensor that's on top of the engine near the thermostat. The connector for this one is different that the original df115. It's currently connected, but I don't know if it's properly connected because the wires are different. Any suggestions on figuring out whether I did it right?
5) Lastly, if I ever need to take this in for service, are they just going to laugh at me?
If you have any suggestions, comments that might help me along, that would be great!
Thanks,
Shawn
One Year update:
Well,
I put about 200 hours on the motor this summer, and it performed darn near flawlessly. No water in the oil! It started right up and purred like a kitten everytime.
Minor issues that I had to address were the IAC valve adjustment to bring the idle up a few hundred RPM and an intermitten overheat alarm (it was not overheating). The alarm was being caused by the plug I had previously suspected was not getting a good connection.
To make this project fit into my budget, I sold my original parts to help pay for the ones I needed for the 140. And for those wondering, YES, I did sell my 115 hood and bought a 140 hood.
Parts I bought for the 115 to 140 conversion
2004 Stripped down power head with engine holder and oil pan $2500
Flywheel $200
ECU $499
Hood $275
Parts I sold on Ebay from my 115
ECU $500
Hood $150
Cams $300
Flywheel $100
Not exactly breaking even, but a whole lot better than buying a new engine!
-Shawn
I need some thoughts and ideas.
My original engine was a 2001 DF 115. I encountered the classic engine holder corrosion, along with a blown head gasket. I spent 4 months doing what Egorena is going thru. I gave up and decided to buy a new to me powerhead. I found one on ebay with real low hours and it included the engine holder and oil pan, but nothing else (ie electrical, intake, fuel injection, etc).
My challenge: Building what has been dubbed "Frankenzuki". The new low hour powerhead is a 2004. I picked up a ECU of Ebay for a DF140 that's a 2005. My original flywheel was not compatible, so it's been replaced with 2006 Johnson 140. I used the original stator, wiring harness, rectifier, fuel injectors, intake.
Final result:
Frankenzuki is ALIVE! (CLICK FOR VIDEO)
I took my "Frankenzuki" to the lake yesterday and she ran great! Best of all, no water in the oil after several hours of running it hard.
So here are my issues I do need to work thru.
1) It's idling a little low, I guessing around 450 rpm's
2) At around 1200 rpm's and in gear, the engine would surge a little off and on up to 1500 rpm's.
3) I am still using the DF115's hood. Is this bad?
4) I had to use the 2004 DF140 sensor that's on top of the engine near the thermostat. The connector for this one is different that the original df115. It's currently connected, but I don't know if it's properly connected because the wires are different. Any suggestions on figuring out whether I did it right?
5) Lastly, if I ever need to take this in for service, are they just going to laugh at me?
If you have any suggestions, comments that might help me along, that would be great!
Thanks,
Shawn
One Year update:
Well,
I put about 200 hours on the motor this summer, and it performed darn near flawlessly. No water in the oil! It started right up and purred like a kitten everytime.
Minor issues that I had to address were the IAC valve adjustment to bring the idle up a few hundred RPM and an intermitten overheat alarm (it was not overheating). The alarm was being caused by the plug I had previously suspected was not getting a good connection.
To make this project fit into my budget, I sold my original parts to help pay for the ones I needed for the 140. And for those wondering, YES, I did sell my 115 hood and bought a 140 hood.
Parts I bought for the 115 to 140 conversion
2004 Stripped down power head with engine holder and oil pan $2500
Flywheel $200
ECU $499
Hood $275
Parts I sold on Ebay from my 115
ECU $500
Hood $150
Cams $300
Flywheel $100
Not exactly breaking even, but a whole lot better than buying a new engine!
-Shawn
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