2011 Suzuki DF60A - odd temperature alarm/light, engine stutter

[denemante]

Hey all - I have a 2011 Suzuki DF60A on my Carolina Skiff JVX16.

I am the second owner. It had under 50 hours on it when I bought it, and I've probably only added only 25 more. This is my second season with it.

It's always run great, and I haven't yet needed to have any service on it. In fact (unsure if this is bad or not), other than checking the oid, I've done nothing else yet (haven't changed fuel filter, etc.). I figured I'm OK for a bit given the low hours and the fact I've only run about 3-4 total tanks of gas, if this.

Anyway - last trip out (Lake Lanier in GA, water temp about 60ish), the temp light came on while I was going dead slow after running about 4 miles. There was a ton of pollen in the water, I figured maybe it tripped some sort of sensor. I shut it down, restarted the engine - and it ran fine the rest of the day.

Today I was out with my family. Ran about 1/2 speed for 25 minutes. Then I slowed to dead slow for 5 minutes while we explored a cove. When leaving, I juiced it, the beep went off - and the engine was very sluggish. I shut it down, tried again - same thing. I couldn't get past 4MPH without the alarm going off and feeling the engine stutter.

We were a few miles from the ramp and it was getting dark, so I motored across the lake at like 2MPH. The light/alarm went off multiple times. Each time, I just shut down and restarted and kept going.

We paused for about 20 minutes on an island with the engine off. Upon getting back in - I was able to run wide-open all the way home - no alarms.

The water coming out the engine was as cool at the lake water. I also pulled the hood, and the engine didn't seem warm, I didn't smell anything funny.

So I'm at a loss. Is the engine stuttering a safety thing where RPMS are reduced or something because the engine thinks it is overheating? So maybe a sensor has gone bad? Makes me nervous because the engine is so new/young.

I'm wondering if the fact that I don't use it much has something to do with all this...

[artdf175]

If I am inderstanding you correctly this is a 2011 model with about 75 hours on the meter
What maintenance has been done in the last 5 years?
Water pump impeller ?
I think the suggestion is to replace every 100 hours or every year, however with low hours you might get 2 years
What happens to the impeller is it loses flexibility compressed inside the pump housing
If it hasn't been changed it would be long overdue and the most reasonable place to start with an overheat alarm
The water out the pee tube is not a good indicator as most engines this comes from fresh water before going through cooling system
And-- let me suggest getting the Suzuki service manual
This is a valuable resource you will need to have
Art

[Moonlighter]

Two things spring to mind.

First is, that even thouh the engine has very low hours, the water pump impeller may have deteriorated due to sitting dry and unused for extended periods of time. Typically they will pump poorly at idle speed if that is the case, at higher speeds enough volume may be getting pumped to keep it within range. Seen that happen many times. Impeller dries out, gets a "set" and doesnt pump properly. May even have bits break off and get stuck in water passages.

So that would be the first thing I would replace. Do a complete water pump kit, that way you know its all good. Check to see if any bits have broken off the impeller. Do a lower unit oil change at the same time.

Secondly if you really want to be sure what has happened you could take it to a Suzuki dealer and ask them to hook it up to the SDS disgnostic system and it will show exactly what codes have thrown and when, and will be a very quick and certain way of diagnosing the problems.

Next thing is that it must be getting very close to the 100 hour oil change as well. So an oil change would be worth doing as well and reset the oil change reminder. Even though its due every 100 hrs, after 5 years its well and truly due to be changed just based on age.

[denemante]

*** - you guys are awesome. Thanks for the responses. I love to learn at forums like this.

Zero known maintenance has been done on the engine. I can't recall the trick, but when you turn the key, the speedo or RPM gauges cycle and indicate hours. When I bought the boat, it was like new, and we did the trick, which from memory, shows that the engine had under 50 hours. The previous owner said he used it like 7 times. A reputable local boat yard was selling it - and gave it 100% score. So perhaps no maintenance was even needed at that point. Again, I've put about 25 more hours on it - I'm actually unsure if I've even passed 50 hours total - I'd have to check it.

Soooo....I've done nothing myself (aside from checking oil level). Even though I've had the boat about 2 years, I guess I've been in the mindset that that it's still "like new" and nothing would be needed yet because of low usage - I'm clearly wrong! And, the boat is in fact 5 years old.....

You guys have laid out a strong case that the impeller could be the issue. Moonlighter pointed out that enough water could be pumped at higher speeds but have trouble at idle - that seems like my symptoms.

I guess the next question is whether I should take it in.

I'm not a mechanic at all but i'm still a big-time handy/fix-it guy and have worked on tons of semi-similar things . Could I open the pump myself and just inspect the impeller? Would we expect it to be fragmented or dryrotted?

Curious where we'd go next if it seemed in perfect condition.

Looks like I can get the impeller for about $25 online. My local Suzuki dealer is a bit of a hike. I am not against going to the experts, especially if they could do other routine stuff at the same time.

But with low hours - might I be able to save myself the trip/costs? Perhaps install the impeller, new fuel filter, change the oil and I'm good for another 25-50 hours? Or as usual with stuff like this, maybe I don't have the common tools for the job, and it's simply time for an expert.....

Thank you!

[Moonlighter]

Well you can do routine maintenance yourself, including things like water pumps, oil changes etc. and not all that difficult assuming youve got some spanners and basic tools and a bit of ability.

5 years old the impeller might "look" ok, but trust me, it isn't. The rubber will not have the same flexibility as a new one. Bend some of the vanes back and i guarantee you will see small cracks open up where they join the centre hub.

u-tube is your friend, someone will have posted a video of doing a Suzuki leg service including water pump that will show you what to do. And if you intend doing more yourself, get yourself a genuine service manual. Available online from a few sources, including Brownspoint Suzuki Marine.

Suzuki sells service kits for most models that have everything needed to do a full 100 hr service. They are a good idea IMO.

One thing to remember - dropping the leg every 2 years (max) is really important, should be considered mandatory really, even if you do it only to inspect impeller etc.

why? Because the bolts holding the leg on can freeze in place if not removed periodically, they need to be removed, cleaned, regreased and replaced. Also, the splines on the top of the drive shaft where it engages the engine end also can get stuck with corrosion, if that happens you have major problems, so dropping the leg and applying a decent amount of grease there is imperative preventative maintenance too.

It might be worth considering getting a full "100 hour" service done by a good Suzuki dealer and a general check over, and ask them to address the above mentioned issues. They can plug the laptop in and check all codes too.

If you can watch them do the service, even better (wink!). You will learn a few tricks.

And if the boat doesnt have a seperate water separating filer in the fuel line between tank and motor, GET ONE FITTED ASAP!!! Dirty fuel or water in fuel and fuel iinjectors = a very bad combination. Racor style of filter is the go.

[denemante]

Thanks again for the awesome info. I got the water pump repair kit from Brownspoint and am going to give it a whirl - turns out there was a great YouTube vid on the exact process, so looking forward to getting my hands dirty.

Moonlighter mentioned a spanner - I don't have one yet didn't see it as needed for the water pump job - did I miss something?

BTW - I have no tach indication or lamp when I turn the key - so I may actually still be under 50 hours.

I do have a fuel filter mounted on the transom. I have a spare but haven't changed it yet as I've used the boat so little.

Hopefully the fix goes will. I'm putting the trolling motor back on for my next trip just in case....

[Moonlighter]

Sockets or spanners - i was just using the generic terms! You should be good to go if you've got a half decent tool kit!

Let us know how it goes.

Cheers!

[mmanuel]

I take it that "spanner" is Oz talk for wrench? As for the oil, I've always been told that old oil is not a good thing even if its not been run much, due to condensation and the like. I change the oil in everything I own at least once a year, especially with cold winters and rainy springs. Probably over kill but an once of prevention! You can probably get by better with a good marine synthetic as they are formulated for wet conditions and time is not such a factor. My 2¢.

[denemante]

I've successfully replaced the impeller! Lower unit came off fine, although a rod which must be the gear rod had me puzzled initially. Loosened the long nut and retaining nut and off she came.

Upon opening the water pump - there sat the impeller - with 4 broken blades! As such, I'd call this a smoking gun. I matched up the pieces just to assure no rubber may have gone up into the engine, and it was all there. Greased the spline tips on the new impeller, cleaned everything, greased the main bolts and top of the drive shaft and buttoned it up.

I have my trolling motor with me just in case - water test coming this weekend.

One issue I'm curious about - I didn't anticipate the gear rod which held the lower unit on. I worked both the long nut and retaining nut in both directions until I figured it out and it came off. But via that experimentation, I'm not 100% I got it back exactly where it was originally threaded. The lower unit did go back on easily and the gear rod nuts tightened nicely. The throttle control at the helm feels normal.

So is there really no adjustment here, and since it went back together, I'm OK? Or are there precise tolerances with those gear rod nuts, and I might have trouble notching into F/N/R?

Thanks for all the advice!

[denemante]

Hmmmmm - can you guys give me your thoughts on this?

I swear I did a 100% perfect job on the impeller replacement and everything went together (and back together perfect).

Today, I noticed I had a really large tub - so figured I'd give it a little water test in the driveway.

The water level was above the main plane/horizontal fin that goes around the lower unit, so the intakes were underwater by about an inch and a half. The manual spoke of covering some other intake with tape on the flat underside of that fin - but I did NOT do that as I figure this was just like the lake.

Started her up in neutral - lots of bubbles so it may not have been a true simulation. And I only did it for like 30 seconds. The normal water output (pisser!) up by the hood was spitting water, but not hard like usual.

The curious part is that there was water coming out the lower unit on the front side where the forward/N/reverse rod is visible.

Is that normal? I've attached a picture of the place the water was coming out. You probably wouldn't be able to see this spot in the lake, or it would be underwater - just curious if water should be coming out there...seemed unusual.

[Flyfshermn82]

It's possible that you have the rotation of the impeller incorrect. There is a specific direction that the fins need to turn. There are several videos on youtube.

This might help...

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjiSDj3ig54
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZHpEPGU9iw