Tweet
I have a 2016 DF140A on a new Excel Bay Pro 203. My 2016 203 sustained a hull crack and was replaced by Excel. The fuel system venting is totally different on the new hull. The 2016 had a carbon canister filter system that vented out at the splash well. The new system vents at the gas filler cap (I think).
I had Excel install my engine on a 6 inch manual jackplate. I had been running the engine in the next to the top hole on the transom. My hull straightline measurement to the anti-cavitation plate was 4 inches (anti-cavitation plate was 4 inches ABOVE the hull when measured along the hull centerline). I got good holeshot, great mid-range but not much bow lift with the engine on the transom. I had hoped to get more lift with the jackplate and Performance Prop 13.5x21 SS prop that I had been running.My original set-up ran 42mph light load at 6000rpm WOT. I had Excel place the engine at the 4 inch above hull measurement as a starting spot.
My initial run of the new set-up produced a neck-snapping hole-shot, great acceleration but no lift and 6200rpm with trim left. The huge issue was it started missing out shortly after launch like it was starving for fuel. The RPM would drop 1-2K then instantly back up. The engine never tried to die and there were no warning lights or codes thrown on the tach.
I went back thru the fuel and vent system even to the point of taking the gas filler cap apart to make sure it was capable of venting.
I lowered the engine 1 inch on the jackplate and ran the boat again. I still have a great holeshot with zero cavitation, good mid-range, very little bow lift, and the engine now starts missing after running WOT for about 3-4 miles. The missing is not as drastic and the RPM only drops 500-600 RPM. WOT RPM has dropped to 6100RPM. The engine has never tried to stall. It starts cleanly as always and idles smoothly. I even ran the boat with the gas filler cap open for a short time and the miss was still there.
I've been in touch with my Suzuki dealer who sold me the rig new and has been included in all dealings with the factory. He is as much puzzled about this missing out as I am. He has sold Suzukis for years and has told me he never had one act like this.
I'm looking for ideas as to which direction I should go here. We are dealing with the new hull and the new jackplate. I've since lowered the engine another inch but haven't had the chance to run it. I know tuning an engine to a jackplate can be a hair-pulling experience since I've done it several times in the past on bass boats. I wish the $$ was there for a hydraulic plate but it's not. I have just bought a water pressure gauge to install to see if there might be some sort of water pressure issue from the engine height and the engine might be cutting the RPM as a safety measure?
I've entertained the idea of taking the boat the 3 hour trip to my dealer to hook it to his computer but with zero codes or warning lights, I have to think it would be a wasted trip.
Ideas appreciated.
I had Excel install my engine on a 6 inch manual jackplate. I had been running the engine in the next to the top hole on the transom. My hull straightline measurement to the anti-cavitation plate was 4 inches (anti-cavitation plate was 4 inches ABOVE the hull when measured along the hull centerline). I got good holeshot, great mid-range but not much bow lift with the engine on the transom. I had hoped to get more lift with the jackplate and Performance Prop 13.5x21 SS prop that I had been running.My original set-up ran 42mph light load at 6000rpm WOT. I had Excel place the engine at the 4 inch above hull measurement as a starting spot.
My initial run of the new set-up produced a neck-snapping hole-shot, great acceleration but no lift and 6200rpm with trim left. The huge issue was it started missing out shortly after launch like it was starving for fuel. The RPM would drop 1-2K then instantly back up. The engine never tried to die and there were no warning lights or codes thrown on the tach.
I went back thru the fuel and vent system even to the point of taking the gas filler cap apart to make sure it was capable of venting.
I lowered the engine 1 inch on the jackplate and ran the boat again. I still have a great holeshot with zero cavitation, good mid-range, very little bow lift, and the engine now starts missing after running WOT for about 3-4 miles. The missing is not as drastic and the RPM only drops 500-600 RPM. WOT RPM has dropped to 6100RPM. The engine has never tried to stall. It starts cleanly as always and idles smoothly. I even ran the boat with the gas filler cap open for a short time and the miss was still there.
I've been in touch with my Suzuki dealer who sold me the rig new and has been included in all dealings with the factory. He is as much puzzled about this missing out as I am. He has sold Suzukis for years and has told me he never had one act like this.
I'm looking for ideas as to which direction I should go here. We are dealing with the new hull and the new jackplate. I've since lowered the engine another inch but haven't had the chance to run it. I know tuning an engine to a jackplate can be a hair-pulling experience since I've done it several times in the past on bass boats. I wish the $$ was there for a hydraulic plate but it's not. I have just bought a water pressure gauge to install to see if there might be some sort of water pressure issue from the engine height and the engine might be cutting the RPM as a safety measure?
I've entertained the idea of taking the boat the 3 hour trip to my dealer to hook it to his computer but with zero codes or warning lights, I have to think it would be a wasted trip.
Ideas appreciated.
Comment