2007 DF140 Intermittent no crank

[slayray]

Hey guys, I am having an issue with my motor where it will turn over well upon first start. But if I shut down it won't even crank for a while. The most recent thing I did was clean the IAC because I was having idling issues but not a no crank condition. I looked at the white wire thread and other threads to help me diagnose the issue. I believe I have an electrical issue going on as my kill switch also does not work and am unable to reset oil change alarm. I do have access to SDS software. I checked everything easy like neutral safety switch and believe them to be functioning correctly. I did find that some wires have been scraped and can see some exposed wire on some of the wiring harness that is between the engine and key switch (white/yellow, black, Brown) right near the pigtail that goes into the engine . I also found my PTT ground was very loosely held by a bolt behind the ECU.

How do I go about fixing a no crank condition?
And how do I go about troubleshooting my kill switch?
Seems like my main harness could have some issues? Is there a continuity test?

Please help me try to track down the issue! Thanks in advance!

Also! Could anyone confirm that I connect the "white wire" on the engine side harness through its own wire all the way to battery switch and fused?

Here are some pics

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C8K...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E_l...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rp7...ew?usp=sharing

[slayray]

I also just noticed that my white wire bullet at the engine has a wire connected all the way to the post on my battery switch up in the center console. Looks like the white wire should come from the keyswitch pig tail at the center console to the battery switch below it? Can anyone confirm this?

[artdf175]

ok wire problems are tough to track when intermittent
white wire .. when the engine will not start - does the remote trim work or not?
when you turn the key to 'on' does the high pressure pump come on to pressurize the fuel system?
power to console .. can come from white wire but does not go through key switch ..
Grounding issues also create huge problems.. there should be a ground of the neg side of the battery to a connector the other ground wires terminate - this is often overlooked but is as vital
as the positive connections
then wire corrosion - start at the battery end and cut out and replace any butt end connectors -- often corroded inside the connector that you cannot see..
Art

[slayray]

Hey Art, thank you for the reply.

White wire is hooked up at the engine side of the harness then ran all the way to the battery switch (15 ft run). There is a white wire bullet connector on the harness at the helm and saw that the wiring schematic should have that hooked up to the battery cable not all the way from the engine ecm harness, maybe I am getting some voltage drop? I think its a little weird that my white wire at my engine side isn't connected to anything like a relay instead it runs all the way up to the battery switch, on the schematic it says its terminated with a bullet connector? Should the white wire from the ecm harness be hooked up somewhere else?

Trim works at all times, high pressure pump does activate, I don't believe I have any grounds hooked up to my starting battery except my house battery ground and engine ground. Are there any other locations for ground on the engine beside the starter and bolt ground for PTT relay?

Thanks again!

p.s. I did a continuity test and found my black wire on the extension harness is bad. Tested every other wire in the key switch assembly and all checked out except for black. Is black my ground? Is it possible to jump the wire temporarily while I order a new harness?

[artdf175]

Yes black should be ground
and if black is not working - there could be a lot not working
Your console electronics ground where?
where does the black /negative side of house batt go?
my batteries are on a shelf in a compartment at the stern -- I found a grounding connector under that shelf with a fair number of black wires connected all corroded up

yes you should be able to put in a jumper from a good ground terminal to the connector splice..
will have to look at my schematics again on your other questions
Art

[slayray]

Okay I think I found the issue, I did a continuity test on the harness. Ignition switch gets a jumper ground from the tachometer (seems backwards to me...). Jumper ground hooked up and kill switch worked! Also able to finally reset my oil change light. Guess the only way the engine turned off was through green wire some how? Anyways, checked ignition switch and the start position had Brown wire working every other time. Bought and installed a new ignition switch everything seems to work perfectly! Ps going to replace the harness as this one looks like a mess. Now I just need to figure out how to verify my caution lights on tachometer. Pretty sure my oil light is hooked up to my check engine light. Thanks art!

Going to sea trial Sunday.

[artdf175]

very good --
the green wire feeds back to the ECM relay-- so when you turn the key to 'on' that powers the ECM and everything else-
from your harness - follow the black wire back and you should find where it grounds. your patch to the tack works for now.
I would expect your dash components will all work as well.
and you are welcome!
Art

[Murray]

Okay I think I found the issue, I did a continuity test on the harness. Ignition switch gets a jumper ground from the tachometer (seems backwards to me...). Jumper ground hooked up and kill switch worked! Also able to finally reset my oil change light. Guess the only way the engine turned off was through green wire some how? Anyways, checked ignition switch and the start position had Brown wire working every other time. Bought and installed a new ignition switch everything seems to work perfectly! Ps going to replace the harness as this one looks like a mess. Now I just need to figure out how to verify my caution lights on tachometer. Pretty sure my oil light is hooked up to my check engine light. Thanks art!

Going to sea trial Sunday.

If everything is working correctly with the key to on (not start) the tachometer needle should swing to the engine hours. The caution lights should all light up for a few seconds and the horn should sound. This is a self check on the systems that the ECM monitors.

[slayray]

So get this, I start the engine at home and it fires up great! And 10x yesterday without a hiccup. I get to the boat ramp and guess what? No crank. Haha. I had my friend turn the key and I could hear the starter relay click on and off. Manual says to pull the starter and check it manually and if it can do that on command then the solenoid is bad.

My partner wiggled the throttle and got it to turn over 3x consistently. The fact that the starter relay got power makes me think it had nothing to do with the neutral safety switches.

Any thoughts?

(btw harness is getting replaced this week)
PS I love how much I am learning about suzuki electrical systems haha
Starter Motor Diagnostic.png

[artdf175]

Actually getting it to start while wiggling the throttle would tell me the neutral safety switch on the remote is failing/out of adjustment.

[slayray]

Hm okay I'll inspect again.

[slayray]

Found a nice nick in the brown wire of the main engine harness (neutral safety) probably getting pinched and stretched after trimming up and down. Going to replace tomorrow and retest.

[slayray]

Update! New harness, new ignition switch installed. Again a no crank condition when I turn the key, I had my dad turn the ignition key and could feel the starter motor relay activate, nada. I tapped the solenoid a couple times with a wrench and boom it starts up. After this I went through all my electrical connections and grounds in there and cleaned them. Starter motor ground to solenoid was pretty dirty, also my rectifier regulator ground behind the electrical holder was completely seized and rusty. Any tips on cleaning the rectifier ground without snapping the bolt off? I guess I could always attach it to the trim relay ground.
Is there a way to test if the starter solenoid is good?

[artdf175]

You are making progress
borrow a relay from your friend that you swapped the ECM with
I felt that could have been a problem earlier
ground problem- suggest a good penetrating oil and if h you twist the head off - get a extractor tool
no experience with starter solenoid
Art

[slayray]

I dont have a friend with a suzuki unfortunately. I had a no crank condition again so i tapped the solenoid with a wrench a few times and it immediately started up. I went through and cleaned up a bunch of connections link pos and ground to starter solenoid and starter/solenoid connection. Used sand paper and also correctly put the larger battery cable lugs first with smaller terminals to ECM or whatever on the outside of the battery lug. I havent had any starting issues since I've done that. Is it possible the starter solenoid had issues because the main battery cable lugs werent directly contacting?

I kinda feel like a horoscope reader at this point haha!