Ecu recalls df115a 14mod

[Freddy jakob]

ECU recalls. Have a df115A 14 mod that has had the ecu changed on recalls when it was new. What I wonder about the new ecu is the improved version and new type. My current one has number 33920-92JF0. Hope someone with the same engine can confirm the number

[Freddy jakob]

Hello. Have now received a message back from the suzuki dealer and they say the upgraded version of the ecu has number 33920-92JF1-**0. They had no information about the one that was replaced.
The question is what the engine's ecu number is delivered with from new

[Moonlighter]

Why is this a concern to you?

Anyway if you go to the “Buy Suzuki Outboard Parts” link in the blue shaded line near the top of the page, put your engine details in and you will be able to find the part numbers, and it usually shows if they have been superseded and by what part number.

My memory banks seem to remind me that the ecu recall was related to a water in fuel sensor setting that wasnt working when it should have. The replacement version simply addressed that issue.

[Moonlighter]

Or you can use that link to search the various part numbers you want to find out about. The listings for parts includes the engines it suits based on model and serial numbers.

[Freddy jakob]

Hello Moonlighter. I am wondering about this since I had problems with the engine when I bought it. The first ecu and iac had to be replaced by the dealer since the engine stopped and did not run well. When I picked up the boat I wasn't quite happy when I trot up. It was still rough and uneven on the throttle. After a few months the temperature alarm came on and the engine stopped and would not start. Felt on the engine that it was not warm. Back to the dealer and they changed a new ecu. I was still not satisfied, but they said the engine was healthy. I see someone changed the ecu, 02 sensor and tps on recall and got a completely different engine when everything was changed. If they have changed the ecu with the same number that was on the engine and not upgraded to a new one with a connection to the water sensor, I will not be satisfied. I'm hunting for an unstable rpm problem when I'm trotting up. These motors should run like a sewing machine. I can actually test the water sensor. Have solved some of the problems with my mototor and there remains a small detail on the rpm side. Thanks for the feedback. Big credit to you and Redlowrey

[Moonlighter]

Ok lets review some history a bit here…

The early DF115/140 A series had an ecu recall for an issue with the ecu reading the water in fuel sensor. It made absolutely no difference to how the engine ran.

I would be totally shocked if any replacement ecu’s were still available or distributed that didn’t have the water sensing issue corrected. It was basically a programming issue, I think they may just have flashed the old ecu’s with a updated version…. There is no way they would have continued to manufacture or sell the faulty version. Just doesn’t happen.

Next, in cases where the IAC valve failed and shorted out the ecu, the solution was a replacement throttle body and IAC and a replacement ecu. When this IAC failure that damaged the ecu happened, if the IAC was the only component that was replaced, the engine would start if you gave it some neutral throttle but would rev up and down by itself wildly. Which was because the ecu had been damaged. I personally witnessed this on my friends engine - it was one of the first in Australia with this issue and we were away on a fishing trip together when it happened.

There was no enhancement to the ecu as part of the solution to this problem, it was a simple swap of old for new, same ecu, same part number because there was nothing wrong with the ecu design. The throttle body and IAC were the improved designs that were the core of the solution. If you were quick and stopped the engine immediately that the IAC failed and threw the code and the ecu was not damaged, then the revised throttle body and IAC valve were the only things that had to be changed.

It does seem odd that your dealer keeps throwing very expensive ecu’s at it to solve every problem that pops up …. Its very, very rare for us to hear about ecu issues here on this forum and my local Suzuki guy says the same thing, apart from that recall, its very rare to have an ecu fail. If they do fail, its usually a very obvious failure eg the engine doesn’t run!

So I am not saying that your running issues are not ecu related, but I think that you may be overly focussed on ecu part numbers due to that history …. I hope that the above info explains why.

Just ensure that the engine has a compatible ecu part number fitted. Refer to the parts section on this page, use your engine details, find the ecu for that engine, and check that the part number is marked as compatible with your engine serial number. Or, put the currently fitted ecu part number into the search bar on the Parts finder page, find it, and see what engines and serial numbers it is compatible with. If its compatible with your engine, then maybe look elsewhere for the cause of the running problems. More often than not its something simple like spark plugs, leads, or fuel.

Do you have access to SDS so you can run tests and test sensors etc? At the very least the dealer should be using SDS to run tests on various components and ensure everything is looking good.

One thing is to make 100% sure that your battery and battery connections are in top condition. A poor battery or bad connections can cause running issues. And that the fuel is fresh.

[Freddy jakob]

Hello and thanks for the good explanation. I was just thinking what has been done to the engine and trying to rule out simple things first and then find out if it is nonsense with the ecu and parts that have been changed. Of everything that hasn't been done and the double check is still the tps and 02 sensor, but since this irritation was before I changed the 02 sensor, a tps next check point. I had to change the battery cable because sea water was drawn into a cable joint and then I changed the charge regulator which had spikes so now sds don't disconnect all the time. Haven't had the opportunity yet to run the engine at a higher rpm with SDS connected. The engine runs fine at idle and at cruising speed and full speed. Is it only when I throttle up that irritates me. Thank you so much for the explanation, it eases my mind

[redlowrey]

When you check the throttle position sensor connect your scope on the voltage scale to 2 volts per division and the time base to 5 ms per division.
Use a thin needle to slide down beside the wire connect the ground probe to the sensor ground and slide another needle beside the signal wire and connect the probe to the needle turn the key on and open and close the throttle, if there is no problems the trace should move up and down the screen with no drop outs.

[Freddy jakob]

Hello. I will do that. Thanks so much redlowrey

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[redlowrey]

After reading your last post it sounds like you’re not getting fuel enrichment when the throttle is initially opened. if the engine runs ok at idle, cruising and wide open throttle,
That could be caused by throttle position signal dropping out, map sensor signal not moving straight away when the throttle is opened, computer not increasing injector pulse width when commanded.

All these can be checked easily with your oscilloscope.

[Freddy jakob]

Thank you very much for the good advice. Will take this with me further redlowrey and will report back when the weather improves so I can investigate this further. I have a feeling that it passes too much air in relation to the amount of fuel when I throttle up.