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  • #16
    Mate! it all boils down to how long do you wish to keep that engine, I think I recall you said that its only been in fresh water, so you would think no salt equals no corrosine, so you may just have a bad head gasket. Saying that the correct thing to do would have that head resurfaced and have the valve clearences checked, Reference with your workshop manual or set No1 Piston tdc on compression stroke and take some photos
    There are two blue and one **** plate on the timing chain which will align with the 3 dot on the cams and 1on the crank

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    • #17
      Originally posted by dparvin View Post
      Looking at removing the head gasket it doesn't look to bad. Do the camshafts and gears have to come off or can they remain just to change the head gasket. thanks Dave
      Cams have to come out as the head bolts are under the cams. You need a star shaped socket, to** maybe it's called? to get the head bolts out.

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      • #18
        Thanks for the reply I have read the manuel and saw the line up of the gears, so ordered head gasket and other items and will be tearing into it soon as I get them. I guess if its not head gasket or engine holder gasket it will be an anchor. Thanks again

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        • #19
          I had trouble sleeping at night until I figured out the problem, but that's just me! When you removed the intake manifold, did you see any rust on the intake valve stems?
          It's a lot of time involved to replace those gaskets and put it all back together to spec. Make darn sure, you ID the problem before you slap it back together. The head gaskets are a 2-layer metal that won't blow out easily. If you ran it really hot, it's possible you warped the head. The head and block are aluminum and will distort if they get too hot.

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          • #20
            I don't believe it ever ran hot, at least the alarm never went off. I lost oil pressure once do to some idiot giving me the wrong oil filter but the oil pressure alarm went off and I shutout down. That may have started the whole problem but Im not sure. If head gasket is leaking, do I take it in and get it milled down a couple thousands. Thanks Dave

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            • #21
              If it's determined to be the head gasket, then yes I would recommend having the block and head surfaced. You'll have to strip both components down though, pistons, valves, everything will have to come out. May as well have the cylinders honed, replace the rings and mains, etc while you're in there. But I wouldn't spend a bunch of cash on parts until I knew for certain where the water is entering the oil.

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              • #22
                Well took the head off and can't see any sign of water in a cylinder and I kind of figured that because it ran so good even just before I found water in the oil. I believe Im going to put it back together and see if still happens. Im not sure weather I want to spend all the time and money on all the parts to replace block and head. just got off phone with mechanic a he is sure because of the oil problem earlier he believes it is a cracked head or block and may not be able to see it even if I tore it down. Now the delima, spend time and money on a 15 year old motor with no warranty when I get done or put it back together with new gaskets and see if if fixes the problem. If not bite the bullet and buy a new motor. New Suzuki $9500 I have a Pump controls and just bolt it on. Mercury 150 installed with new pump $14000 and Yamaha even more. No good answer
                Last edited by dparvin; 09-15-2017, 12:52 AM.

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                • #23
                  I decided to repower also. Don't know where you're located but check with International Marine out of South Florida for a quote. They'll ship it to you. You will have to hang and rig it but this route might save you some cash if you go that route. I wish you good luck sir.

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