DF200 alarm issues

[yakfishr]

I have a 2017 DF200, has been a great engine so far. A month ago I had a low battery issue. I corrected that problem. But then the C10 started throwing the kitchen sink full of alarms, I mean a lot of them, engine overheat, engine over rev limit, engine low voltage, and others I can't remember now as well as 4 or 5 engine codes,. But the engine starts and runs just fine, no overheating, no over reving, the GPS indicates voltage is 14.1. But the C10 keeps throwing codes. I thought I had it fixed this past weekend but after cruising for about 30 minutes the alarms started cycling again. I went back to the dock and unplugged the ECM and restored it took the boat back out and within 15 minutes the alarms are back. Anybody have any ideas, I have checked connection and voltages, found no issues. All of the alarms clear when I stop and restart the engine. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, as I have checked connections and voltage with no problems found. Thanks.

[yakfishr]

I forgot to include that all of the readings on the C10 went wild. Engine hours went from 350.25 to 32832, water temp from normal 127 up to 471 then back down to -40, Trim angle went the whole gamut up to and including 100%, ANd apparently I was using fuel at a rate of 465 gph. Thanks

[Moonlighter]

There is likely a voltage issue most likely to the ecu. Multiple false codes being thrown is almost always die to voltage issues. Especially occurring after something like a battery change was done.

Something may have gone astray with the new battery installation eg not connected properly or tight. Wire damaged. Etc.

Find the white wire, undo it from its connection which should be to the + terminal on the main battery switch for the start battery (or “all”) and clean the connection and make sure the wire is good. Then find the fuse in that wire undo it, clean the fuse, check the fuse holder for corrosion. Clean, reconnect and tighten everything.

If the white wire is connected somewhere other than to the + on the main battery switch, it should only be to the + of the starting battery. Make sure it was reconnected to the correct location.

Check the main battery switch itself and its connections, dont just look at them, undo, clean and reconnect tight.

[yakfishr]

Thanks, I did a more in depth search on this forum and found this issue had been discussed previously, quite a bit, I will be checking a lot of connections focusing in the motor as it seems to start after the engine heats up.

[Moonlighter]

Wires with corrosion in them heat up, and then resistance becomes greater. Causing issues. Could be worth investigating the main battery cables and checking resistance.

[Moonlighter]

Wires with corrosion in them heat up, and then resistance becomes greater. Causing issues. Could be worth investigating the main battery cables and checking resistance.

[yakfishr]

Thanks, just had the boat out for 40 minutes. Thought I had cleared the problem, then came the waterfall of alarms again, immediately turned the engine off and checked voltage to the WW under the cowling. 13,1 V with engine off, 14.45V with the engine running. Main relay checked good for operation and resistance across the coil -even while warm. Pulled the 60A main fuse and got 12.8V on one side and 11.87V on the other side(both positive) with the switch turned to on, this seems odd to me as I thought it would be 0V on one side of the fuse. Still no issues with starting or running, just alarms. I am really not a fan of heat related troubles as they can't be troubleshot in the driveway.

[yakfishr]

Thanks for all the advice, after looking at everything I could think to look at I broke down and called the mechanics. They sent someone out with a computer and we drove around for about 30 minutes until the alarms started cascading again. Plugged the computer in and the only alarm that had been stored on the engine was a single overheat issue I had, about 18 months ago due to weeds, which was promptly resolved. One of the guys looked in the console where the backbone is and started rechecking connections for tightness. He indicated that the Engine iInterface cable was warm, I didn't think it was alarmingly warm, but I am not an outboard mechanic. So off we go for about 15 minutes, the alarms start again, we recheck the cable by hand and the temperature is slightly warmer. The mechanic said barring any other issues this could be the problem as the cable is not supposed to get warm. I replaced it with a new cable, reset my C10 to get the dashes replaced with numbers and so far so good. I have about 2 hours of run time with no alarms. Hopefully this resolves the problem, I would never have considered or even thought to check that. Thanks again for all the help, Yakfishr

[ResotaJoe]

I know this may be an old thread, i had the same code throwing issue two days ago, the only difference is that i was plowing throwing alot of water on the front of the engine for a couple of minutes (watching bait and other boats) the water from engine was not hot, the ECM was going crazy, i pulled the cowl off and didnt hear any rod knocking or anythin strange, limped slowly out of harms way (about 10 minutes) turned off engine for a couple if minutes. restarted and most of the gauges came back to normal, except fuel usage and consumption. took boat back put today, all worked good except fuel gauge and consumption. COuld the excessive water caused a short? Loose connection? Thank you

[Moonlighter]

Could be water in a bad connection. Or corrosion.

Also if the interface cable is under the cowl or in the transom area, water getting into it will cause issues. If its behind the dash, when the problem happens check the module in the cable and if its very warm then the internals may be failing.

Read the earlier parts of this thread again. It gives a really good indication of where to look and what to check. We cant check that stuff for you, have to do it yourself.