Fuel gauge to fuel tank

[welshspringer]

I have fitted a fuel gauge to the fuel tank so that I know how much fuel I have without leaving the helm and pulling fuel tank out of the stern locker. I have connected the gauge to a separate power supply, would prefer the gauge connected into the ignition key of the motor.
A little help in identifying how to connect to the ignition would be very appreciated. I am NOT an electrician even of the most basic type.
Incidentally it is a 2 stroke 65 hp Suzuki.

[Moonlighter]

Most auto stores sell a test light that has a clip on one end (to connect to negative busbar) and a + probe (looks like a little pointed screwdriver) on the other, for only a few $. Its a very handy tool for basic wiring jobs like this one.

If you get one of those, then look behind the dash, in the wiring harness where they connect to the engine gauges there are usually a couple of unused connectors that have blank plugs in them. Use the test light to find one that is live when the key is turned on and not live when its turned off. Thats where you connect the +ve wire and connect the --ve to the neg busbar.

[welshspringer]

Thanks for the info, will certainly try ASAP.

[welshspringer]

Sucsesful with that job. Excuse the absence, boat 50 miles from home and I could not drive due to med problems.
Started the engine for the first time today after 8 months of idle, really speaking this is the end of 3 years not being able to use boat.. I digress, the engine started and ran for a few minutes then cut out. (Admit old fuel) Engine will start but cuts out almosst immidiately. I am hoping that it is down to faulty fuel, iff not, what could be the cause?? Help NEEDED PLEASE!

[Greg Moore]

I assume it starts fine after you prime it then quits? If so, your fuel pump isn't working, it's either shot, gummed or just stuck. Old fuel doesn't start fine then quit, it just runs like shit on it. Plugged filters, intake screen or lines will run when you use the primer bulb but not on the motors own pump (much higher pressure when you squeeze the bulb) so keep that all in mind.

[Solarman]

Sounds like old fuel has built up in carbs (if only 8 months?). It might be possible to put an additive in fuel (double strength), then run motor a good few, 3-4, or more times, to be sure additive has made it into carbs, and throughout fuel system. Then let it sit for a few days, and run again, another good few times. If no improvement, you will probably need to clean fuel system, carbs, tank and filters of all the old fuel.
if it does run longer and better, continue with same process. Use up all the old fuel, and using new fuel with more additive continue process until running well enough for a trip to the water. Always run an additive in each tank of fuel, especially if using ethanol fuels.

if needing to clean fuel system, let us know before starting this work, and do you have a Suzuki service manual for this motor?

Good luck, post back when able to let us know what's up.

[welshspringer]

One of my better traits I alway drain the carbs via drain plug at base of carb, before winterisation. I have ordered the innards of the pump also new fuel line, I know that the fuel line is about 10 yrs old so could be delaminating inside.
No service manual only Selco book.

[Solarman]

Most rebuild kits, for some Suzuki fuel pumps, do not include the small clear disc check valves (usually located in mid, or lower section of pump). The only way to repair that pump, is with a new pump.

That Seloc manual, may work for some general info, but didn't include factory settings for carb "idle air/ fuel mixture jets". And other test/check procedures for sensors with resistance values. Just not a very complete manual.

Draining carbs, can prevent some problems, but lack of running is major cause 2 strokes had problems.

Post back what you find when able, good luck.

[welshspringer]

I hope all parts are included, I am purchasing off the main Suzuki dealer in UK via a marinr retailer. I looked to purchase from Browns Point Marine USA, The cost of delivery to UK was $100 for a part costing $20.Could not believe the cost placed by American postage considering that the kit would fit into a normal envelope. Cost of unit in UK $30 / £26 approx.

[Moonlighter]

I hope all parts are included, I am purchasing off the main Suzuki dealer in UK via a marinr retailer. I looked to purchase from Browns Point Marine USA, The cost of delivery to UK was $100 for a part costing $20.Could not believe the cost placed by American postage considering that the kit would fit into a normal envelope. Cost of unit in UK $30 / £26 approx.

Check this forum’s site for prices as well. Click on “Buy Suzuki Outboard Parts” at the top of this forum and go from there. I found shipping cost was not too bad to Australia.

[welshspringer]

Check this forum’s site for prices as well. Click on “Buy Suzuki Outboard Parts” at the top of this forum and go from there. I found shipping cost was not too bad to Australia.

You were correct the plastic parts not included had to reuse the old part.
Rebuilt the fuel pump, had a little fun re-attaching to the engine. Filled the tank with new fuel and changed the fuel line, but cannot re-charge the engine. The fuel line bulb became hard ONE squeeze which should indicate that the engine was ready but no fuel to the filter /pump. Help needed to get over this hurdle PLEASE.

[Solarman]

Sounds like bulb or fuel connector after bulb is the fault, one of them isn't letting fuel go to filter. You could disconnect fuel line at new fuel pump, too see if bulb, or connector is the problem. If bulb pumps and fuel flows, then either carb floats are all stuck shut, or something in fuel pump is not right.


Check and let us know what you find.

[welshspringer]

Got to my boat last Friday, tried a start, not a kick of life. There was a new fitting from the tank to the engine fitted due to leaking of the old fitting. On examining all pipes and filter the ony assumption was no fuel being let into engine. Removed the fitting from the supply pipe, fuel evident, removed the engine fitting, could see no problem so decided to fit the old fitting to fuel pipe. "BINGO", fuel into the engine and engine started and ran OK. Bearing in mind this is a 65hp engine and I had checked against Suzuki drawing, the fitting on the engine is for the 115hp - 140hp engines. So I have renewed the innards of the fuel pump and replaced the fuel line all because of a "rogue" fitting, measured both of them up and were 5/16" correct dia for 65hp engine.
Still puzzeled but engine seems OK, needs a trial run on the water.

[welshspringer]

Got to my boat last Friday, tried a start, not a kick of life. There was a new fitting from the tank to the engine fitted due to leaking of the old fitting. On examining all pipes and filter the ony assumption was no fuel being let into engine. Removed the fitting from the supply pipe, fuel evident, removed the engine fitting, could see no problem so decided to fit the old fitting to fuel pipe. "BINGO", fuel into the engine and engine started and ran OK. Bearing in mind this is a 65hp engine and I had checked against Suzuki drawing, the fitting on the engine is for the 115hp - 140hp engines. So I have renewed the innards of the fuel pump and replaced the fuel line all because of a "rogue" fitting, measured both of them up and were 5/16" correct dia for 65hp engine.
Still puzzeled but engine seems OK, needs a trial run on the water.

[welshspringer]

Solarman
Had a week at holiday home and did some work on the dt65 As I said ealier have replaced the innards of the fuel pump, onto the sea for a trial, engine started NO problem after a starting run opened throttle and boat flew then cut out NO fuel . Back to shore with small bursts from engine. On shore found fuel pouring out of fuel filter, back to base and found that the filter cup had not been fully tightenef - MY FAULT. Back ont water started could not get full revs, speed would pick up then engine would almost die. only thing I think could be wrong is the carbs, dirt possibly got pat the filter/pump. Any thoughts?