2015 DF250AP Engine Interface

[seameafterclass]

Can anyone shed light on the situation. Dealer installed 3.5 edition software engine interface cable, they said it was wrong when I was getting sporadic codes showing up after startup and idling . Switched to 2.9 engine interface and now I get alarms but no codes showing on display and a limp/safe mode with no control of my throttle or gears. Asked them to switch back to 3.5 and they insist 2.9 is correct. I have the black and white smis gauges and a 2015 fly by wire motor bought in April 2015.
Is there a reason the 2.9 should be used when the 3.5 was giving me actual codes and working fine before (except for showing random codes)

[Murray]

https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...a2000-networks

Some reading material, if you haven’t already seen this article. Moonlighter is the expert and I’m sure he’ll comment.

[Moonlighter]

Dealer is an idiot.

Version 2.9 is for engines up to 2012. It wont work, as you have discovered, with engines later than that. Take it off!!

What possibly happened is that the original version 3.5.0 released a few years ago did have stability issues and was replaced by 3.5.4. And then, this was updated again to 3.5.7 which is the current version.

Go back and insist that they install a new interface cable version 3.5.7. When it is installed, they/you must then go into the gauge menu and configure it correctly.

The other very real possibility re the original problem of codes when starting up and idling is due to low voltage supply to the engine.

Throwing false codes is typical of poor voltage supply to the engine’s ecu, it is a well known issue to any experienced Suzuki mechanic. Now, the solution to that will depend on whether it is simply bad batteries, or wiring or connections that are corroded or just not making good connections.

So,

1. get the correct interface cable installed and configured
2. get the batteries load tested, and either replaced or charged up properly if they are simply not charged up.
3. undo, clean and then re tighten all battery connections.
4. Check the white wire connection (the dealer may call it the battery sub wire) thus is the wire that powers the ecu. It should be connected to the start battery + or to the main battery switch. Again, undo the connections, inspect the wire for corrosion, find the fuse holder in that wire nearby the connection, undo, inspect, and clean it too.

[Moonlighter]

Note: these Suzukis are VERY SENSITIVE to voltage/amperage.

If they dont get a good power supply they will not play nicely and the false codes is one SURE sign of that. If left unattendd then you can soon expect to have engine performance issues eg it will start running badly and doing weird things.

So do not neglect doing the electrical system maintenance that I mentioned in the previous post, even if the correct interface cable seems to solve the problem.

[Moonlighter]

I just saw you posted on another thread.

Jeepers it is helpful if all relevant info is in one place and not spread all around the joint!!

Corrosion in the wiring harness, which is indicated by stiff/hard wiring, is always going to be a MAJOR problem and is a strong chance of being the cause of these false codes and running issues.

And it sounds like the root cause is a bad install, where the harness is left sitting in the bilge where it’s constantly exposed to water.

[seameafterclass]

Thanks Moonlighter! I am working on getting a wiring harness now but they are on backorder. but it’s currently way too long as is, any chance they can be repinned or shortened by a novice like myself. Not sure if the issue is the same where you are but I was told
months before I could get a replacement.

[Moonlighter]

A decent auto electrician should be able to cut the harness back to where its good, and join in a new section using quality marine grade wire.

The plugs used are reasonably common automotive style plugs and should be able to be sourced if required. Many of them can have the pins removed and new wires connected up.