Tweet
A flash storm came through last week and I didn’t get to cover my boat. Water traveled onto the wires and batteries. Shorted out my starter and had to replace and buy tw new batteries. Everything turned on fine so I took it out on the water and ran it for about 10 minutes. About thirty minutes later, I turned it on and ran about 1/4 and noticed it wouldn’t go full throttle, I don’t remember the exact rpms I was at, but would say it was about 3000 or so. Stopped and turned it off to check it and it hasn’t turned on since. Both new batteries were drained. Came home charged batteries and am starting to check things. I don’t know what to check from here. Everything else works except motor. It sounds like it is not getting enough power to get the starter going, but I checked the voltage and it’s not dropping off at the starter. I’ve read about the white wire and checked continuity from where it’s connected (battery terminal) to first butt splice. It is getting voltage. I ordered a diagnostic cable, but I don’t know what so could check until then. The trim on the throttle works intermittently when trying up, but always works going down- so I’m feel like I’m overlooking something. When I try to start motor, the starter will click a few times and then nothing. I have to let it sit for a few minutes to get it to click again. Any suggestions?
-
-
At the top of the forum there is a sticky thread about the white wire. Will be worth reading it. -
Be also worth checking the main battery cables cor internal corrosion.Comment
-
Clicking sound is usually weak battery. Check battery votage?Comment
-
Battery voltage is good on both batteries. I’ve read the sticky about the white wire. What’s throwing me off from what I read is that it should be either connected to the battery post OR the terminal connector on the starter, is this correct? Because mine is connected to both. Is there a way to test the white wire? I’ve got 12.86 volts at the battery and on the positive post on the starter. So that tells me it is getting voltage; but how can I check the voltage on the terminal on the starter?Comment
-
reading the sticky can be confusing to new players, there are a few variations in the wiring between 2000 and 2005. All the small engines from 2000 to 2005 were fed ignition supply off the battery pos cable at the starter via a 60 and thirty amp fuse which went to the main control relay where it was piggy backed and went to the ignition key. Then suzuki changed in 2005 and supplied battery voltage via a 15 amp fuse from the pos battery post at the battery.
In saying that there are thousands of DF140 engines wired with a 15 amp fuse coming off the main battery pos cable at the starter, my 2007 included. So you are saying that you have a 15 amp fuse coming off the battery and a 15 amp fuse coming from the starter, or when you done some checking you had a short red lead coming off the starter to a terminal block then a white wire going to the sixty and thirty amp fuse going to the main control relay.
You have defiantly got a voltage drop problem in the system, the first thing I would be doing is to find out what is draining your batteries.
Comment
-
I have a short red wire coming off the starter and a 15 amp fused white wire under the console going to the battery. It seems like I’m not getting the required voltage to start the motor. If I unplug the small red wire to the starter, nothing happens; but if I plug it in- the starter only clicks like it wants to engage. How can I rewire to get the power it needs?Comment
-
To me, I would like to know where this white wire meets in the harness that when I turn the key to “on” that it engages the starter. I feel like that is where I need to check- that connection. Does this make sense?Comment
-
It sounds like your ignition feed is coming from the battery via the fifteen amp fuse, of course nothing will happen if you remove that short red lead, that supplies the battery voltage that powers the system up, eg, main control relay, starter relay engine trim ect. The battery voltage via the fifteen amp fuse supplies the ignition key, then when you turn the key on, that battery voltage travels back down the loom via a grey wire to the main control relay and turns every thing on.
Do this simple test, connect every thing back up and remove the cover off the flywheel and connect a socket and bar and rotate the engine anticlockwise, I want to make sure the engine can rotate on its own, if it does get one one to turn the key to the start position and listen to whether the clicking is coming from a relay or the starter solenoid. While you are doing that connect your volt meter to a good ground prefer battery ground and check what the voltage is at the spade terminal on the solenoid when the key is in the start position, then do the same with the volt meter on the main terminal at the solenoid,
Remove all the main negative battery cables one at a time and clean them and reinstall them, did you replace the starter, some thing drained your new batteries, if the starter drive was stuck in the ring gear and that is what drained your batteries that starter will be toast.Comment
-
Ok. The flywheels does turn counter clockwise and when I had someone turn the key to start, it sounded like the starter. I checked the voltage to starter main connection and voltage reads same as battery. When I checked the voltage on the spade connector, it reads zero. I did remover the white wire from battery post and from first butt connector before getting to loom of wires. The white wire does show continuity…so I am assuming that from that first butt splice to wherever it goes, it is not supplying the power needed to start the motor, is this on the right track? Now, where do I go from here?Comment
-
This is going nowhere, remove the spade terminal off the solenoid and bridge the terminal with a screwdriver or a jumper wire to the main battery pos cable on the solenoid post and if your starter and main cables are fine the engine will crank over.
If the engine cranks over fine connect your meter up and check what the voltage is on the spade terminal wire with the key in the start position.
Mate this is simple stuff you really only need a test light to check both sides of the 15 amp fuse, then go to the ignition switch, power on white wire, turn key on, power on grey wire, turn key to start, power on brown wire, then go to starter solenoid spade battery voltage with key in start position.
Comment
Comment