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  • DF 40 temp alarm

    2007 suzuki df40.getting temp alarm. Replaced impeller, exhaust temp sensor changed cyl temp sensor with one I took out from exhaust., changed thermostat. Motor clean as new flushed after every use. Gulf of Mex. Check with laser thermometer after alarm sounds .no spots hotter than 145f. Turn off key , start motor run hard, no alarm? Don't know what to check next. Any ideas?

  • #2
    Triumph, Start from your batteries up to your console and clean and inspect every electrical connection before you sart replacing things

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    • #3
      Checked connections , pulled dash checked all connections looked very clean. Forgot to mention that the arch stopped working but that was before the temp alarm started sounding??? Thanks for your help

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      • #4
        I still get the over temp alarm but can't see any hot areas with an ir gun. I have no rpms showing on my gauge. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot or where the signals come from to the tach?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Triumph View Post
          2007 suzuki df40.getting temp alarm. Replaced impeller, exhaust temp sensor changed cyl temp sensor with one I took out from exhaust., changed thermostat. Motor clean as new flushed after every use. Gulf of Mex. Check with laser thermometer after alarm sounds .no spots hotter than 145f. Turn off key , start motor run hard, no alarm? Don't know what to check next. Any ideas?
          '''''''''' Warm the engine up and do a voltage drop test at both sensors and report back what you found.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the help but I have to wait unroll I get back down Fla where the boat is. Mid Nov.

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            • #7
              Took the boat to the Suzuki dealer and they had their "Suzuki Tech" check for temp problem as. Had the boat for three weeks. Checked pump, tubes,passages,ran boat several times. Can't find the problem. Picked up the boat after paying $200 ,removed the two sensors and let them hang from the harness inside the cover and ran the boat hard. No alarms.Pulled the cover a few times and checked with the ir thermometer .140 deg on the cyl side, around 170deg highest I saw on the ex side. ?????

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              • #8
                had the same problem over here with an 2005 DF50. after reading the codes of the ecm with SDS i found that it was an temp gradient alarm from the exhaust temp. sensor. after cleaning and checking the cooling system we flushed the cooling system with a hull cleaner. a lot of durt came out of the cooling and the problem was solved.

                i know the problem from a lot of suzuki outboards. also the DF8A and DF9.9A have temp issue's after some years. flushing them with a good hull cleaner works fine. remove the thermostat and anodes first.

                i use an impeller pump and attach it to the waterpipe
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Sjippie as I see on the bottle

                  Watch out for your trailer if you use an accid. It can damage the surface.
                  Regards, Martin
                  DF200 2007

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pniksnut View Post
                    had the same problem over here with an 2005 DF50. after reading the codes of the ecm with SDS i found that it was an temp gradient alarm from the exhaust temp. sensor. after cleaning and checking the cooling system we flushed the cooling system with a hull cleaner. a lot of durt came out of the cooling and the problem was solved.

                    i know the problem from a lot of suzuki outboards. also the DF8A and DF9.9A have temp issue's after some years. flushing them with a good hull cleaner works fine. remove the thermostat and anodes first.

                    i use an impeller pump and attach it to the waterpipe
                    Is there any reason NOT to remove the thermostat (top-mounted on my engine) and flush from the top down?
                    ---
                    John

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                    • #11
                      I have done it with the thermostat still on place. No problem. But with the thermostat closed a part of the engine will not get the hull cleaner. But you can do it both ways to be shore.

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                      • #12
                        A vinegar flush may be a less expensive way of achieving the same result:

                        https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...m-vinegar.html
                        Last edited by Moonlighter; 11-16-2017, 08:55 PM.

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                        • #13
                          for salt or one's a year cleanup it will work. but for limestone and oxidation or when you have an serious temp issue you will need stronger accid . i know . i tried all.

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                          • #14
                            Using the hill cleaner, which hull cleaner do you suggest, and what concentration/dilution if it was being done with the engine running in a drum of water/hull cleaner mix?

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                            • #15
                              as you can see on the photo's in previous post i use a electric impeller pump and take of the gear housing because the cleaner wont do any good to the impeller and plastic pump housing. and this way i only need a little bit of cleaner. i dont run the engine .

                              i use a flued called "sjippie" , its a strong hull cleaner sold here in the netherlands Onderwaterschip reiniger - Sjippie - Zeilboot - Sloep | Sjippie

                              and mix it in a ratio of one littre sjippie and 2 or 3 liters water.

                              there is a milder version for aluminium boats but even that does nott work as well is the one for fiberglass boats.

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