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  • Prop Suggestions???

    Question for Moonlighter as well as anybody else!!!!


    I repowered an old CC ProMaster 220 with a 200DFA 20" shaft. I went with the 20" at the suggestion of a good friend that had the same exact "like kind" boat, but was a 19'. He's had his boat many years with an Optimax 150 / 20" until she blew in the middle of prime fishing one year. Needing to get back on the water asap, he bought a new 150 DFA /25" from the NEW local dealer, as that was all they had in stock at the time. He loves the motor, but hates the longer shaft, saying that he has to run his hydraulic JP at maximum height to get to perform close to what the old one did.

    With that said and based on his recommendation, that's what lead me to to buy mine that I have. The boats were only made for about 4 years back in the late 90"s for a big dealership with multiple locations called Travis Boating Centers, that's now debunked. Boat was made by Sprint!

    Information that I've found on the boat is that it's hull weight is 1400 lbs. and has a 22" transom height. But I've added weight to the boat with a front deck extension that I estimate added 150 lbs. I have 7 batteries on board (3 under console and 4 in back area) and I have a lot gear onboard in addition to 5 gallon minnow tank, 30 gallon live well and 20 gallon bait tank in rear. All of these full with up to 4 people would be my maximum load.

    Originally I had an OMC Ocean Pro 175 /25" shaft / 19P prop that ran 38 mph with 2-3 people with 1 live well full and minnow cooler, Motor was mounted directly to transom all the way down. When I purchased new motor it was originally mounted that way. All the "so called" dealer had as a prop in September of 2020 was a 24P 4 blade Lexor to put on it with the promise to get me another, knowing this one was not right. (Never happened) With this setup, 2 people in the boat was a little sluggish out of the hole but only ran 36 mph at 6100 rpm's. Different prop shops have told me that I'm around 34% slippage.

    With a lot of reading of Moonlighter's motor height recommendations, I was able to add a 12' manual JP and have now gotten the motor raised to nearly what he recommends, maybe an inch lower than what he suggest. With the same prop, hole shot is a little better and top speed is only up to 38 mph with same load. But in a 2/3 throttle turn trimmed all the way down, boat wants to slide and prop wants to break loose if you keep turning to try to make boat grip to turn better, rather than slide.

    After that experience with more reading and studying on Suzuki's web site for boat test on this motor, looking at similar boat hulls and weights (but fully aware and realizing they are all probably running 25" shafts) I thought that a 21" Rubex 3 blade would solve my problem. It held better in the turns, but the numbers were way off, bad! Hole shot was good I guess in that it came out of hole good, but the rpm's would jump up to 5000 while coming out of the hole. (I'm not sure if that's good or bad. You all tell me!) It would hit 6200 RPM's with throttle still left and speed was only 32 mph.

    With that being said and not having a reputable dealer close by, does anyone have any suggestions for me on with limited availability to obtain props to try?

    Also, what's everyone's opinion of a 'whale tail?" Would it be of any benefit on my application, such as helping in the turns?

    Any help would be so greatly appreciated!!

    BC
    Last edited by Big Crappie; 09-16-2021, 01:22 PM.

  • #2
    The problem is a 20" shaft motor on a 22" transom. The prop shops are correct - you're getting 35% slip with the Rubex prop. If your jack plate is assembled in two pieces, you could un-bolt the back half, and move it down to get your prop lower into a cleaner stream of water. Additionally, you could have a prop expert add more cup to your prop for grip, like the Texas guys do when they run their props at the surface on tunnel hulls.

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    • #3
      Have a look at Suzuki USA websites boat tests. There are many different boats on their test list for the DF200A, you will probably find something similar to your boat.

      http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%...12/DF200A.aspx

      Now bear in mind that these tests are likely done with minimal extra weight and gear onboard so they would be. “Best case” scenario. So while the diameter props would be correct, the pitch may need to drop an inch or two for heavier weights.

      Here is one example, a SeaPro 22’8” running a 3 x 26 x 21.5 Suzuki stainless prop for 48mph at 6100rpm.
      http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%...228%20DF200ATX

      I did notice that on the different boats they used mainly 15” dia props but also some 16” dia too. You didnt mention the dia of the props you tried - but I would say that anything less than a 15” dia would likely see the prop losing grip on acceleration.

      Hope that that info helps.
      Last edited by Moonlighter; 09-21-2021, 03:52 AM.

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      • #4
        If you could post pictures of your setup, it would help. Photos showing the transom, jack plate, and the motor lower unit, with height of cavitation plate in relation to the keel of the hull would be best. To the side and directly behind the prop, looking forward, with the keel and motor cavitation plate tilted at level with the ground.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
          Have a look at Suzuki USA websites boat tests. There are many different boats on their test list for the DF200A, you will probably find something similar to your boat.

          http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%...12/DF200A.aspx

          Now bear in mind that these tests are likely done with minimal extra weight and gear onboard so they would be. “Best case” scenario. So while the diameter props would be correct, the pitch may need to drop an inch or two for heavier weights.

          Here is one example, a SeaPro 22’8” running a 3 x 26 x 21.5 Suzuki stainless prop for 48mph at 6100rpm.
          http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%...228%20DF200ATX

          I did notice that on the different boats they used mainly 15” dia props but also some 16” dia too. You didnt mention the dia of the props you tried - but I would say that anything less than a 15” dia would likely see the prop losing grip on acceleration.

          Hope that that info helps.
          The 4 blade Lexor 24P is 15 1/4" diameter, The Rubex 3 blade 21P is 15,63" diameter, The boat test referrals you provided are the ones that I used to decide on trying the 21P 3 blade, Just totally bumfuzzled as to why my results were so much different that theirs, From what I understand, the Lexors and Rubex's are the same props with the difference being the interchangeable hubs!!!
          Thanks for your reply!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Spankenstein View Post
            If you could post pictures of your setup, it would help. Photos showing the transom, jack plate, and the motor lower unit, with height of cavitation plate in relation to the keel of the hull would be best. To the side and directly behind the prop, looking forward, with the keel and motor cavitation plate tilted at level with the ground.
            Thank you for your reply! I will try to get those pictures, but it'll probably be the first of next week before I have the boat out to where I can get all the shot angles for you! The next problem will be my limited computer savvy of getting them uploaded, but I'll do my best! I will tag you when I do!
            Thanks!

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