Suzuki DT 85 1989 CLK

[PonsBor]

Hello,
First of all thanks to any collaboration.
I have a 1989 suzuki dt 85 CLK. Rebuild carb, new sparkplugs, revised enter gasoline, new filters
Between 75%-100% of power it makes a sound of intermitance.
Any ideas of whats happening, could be the level of gas inside the carburator that is quite low?A problem with the revolution counter in carb nš2?
Video attached https://youtu.be/ejPiDaz3JbA

[Solarman]

It doesn't sound like it's running on all cylinders? It could be fuel related, or electrical? The video is not very good for diagnosis.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[PonsBor]

Thanks for the answer. I am going to put another video. The problem its at maximum speed.
I have check the sparkplugs and they are working. May be is with the level of gas inside the carburator. I am putting the float almost in paralel with the carb.
I am wondering is not a electrical problem.

[PonsBor]

It doesn't sound like it's running on all cylinders? It could be fuel related, or electrical? The video is not very good for diagnosis.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

https://youtu.be/ejPiDaz3JbA

[Solarman]

Ponsbor, it is extremely difficult to listen to a video and try to diagnose a problem?
It would be better to describe what happened, that started this problem. Then explain all you have done to correct your problem.

Good luck, post back and share what information you have.

[PonsBor]

Thank You Solarman,

I know its difficult to now whats happening only with the video and the sound.
was loosing fuel in the three carburator at the surplus. Sometimes in the one at the bottom, sometimes the one in the middle, and sometimes the one on the top, so i see it was necessary to change needle.

So i am nputting out the three carburator and rebuid. The carburator on the top was very clean in comparation with the others two. I have change the locks for the fuel on the bottom of the carburettors and the boards. I am putting the float almost in paralel to the carbs. Seeing the level putting the carburator in the other way around and blowing to see where is closing the carb.
May be there is the posibility i am putting quite low the float so its not getting enough fuel. If i am increasing the level then the dock of the float (needle valvue assembly) will touch with the top of the carburattors.

I wasnt sure that the three cilinders are working so i have check there is spark in each one. Didnt do a compress proof with the machine, but seems to be compression closing with one finger.
There is no any alarms sounding or with the light. I am putting new impeler.
Also i am changing the fuel filter inside the motor and the one that is outside for the water. The conection with the rubber tube are checked.
I have checked all three carburators are working at the same time, they are oppening together and closing together.

In the picture attached, (throttle rod adjustment there is a little gap between "c" and the "6" and may be this is the reason for not working at full throttle.
I didnt rebuild fuelpump at any time since the last ten years, and didnt check the revolution counter attached at the middle carburator.

I dont know what else could be.
Thanks a lot,
Dont worry in ask something else

[PonsBor]

Ponsbor, it is extremely difficult to listen to a video and try to diagnose a problem?
It would be better to describe what happened, that started this problem. Then explain all you have done to correct your problem.

Good luck, post back and share what information you have.

Thank You Solarman,

I know its difficult to now whats happening only with the video and the sound.
was loosing fuel in the three carburator at the surplus. Sometimes in the one at the bottom, sometimes the one in the middle, and sometimes the one on the top, so i see it was necessary to change needle.

So i am nputting out the three carburator and rebuid. The carburator on the top was very clean in comparation with the others two. I have change the locks for the fuel on the bottom of the carburettors and the boards. I am putting the float almost in paralel to the carbs. Seeing the level putting the carburator in the other way around and blowing to see where is closing the carb.
May be there is the posibility i am putting quite low the float so its not getting enough fuel. If i am increasing the level then the dock of the float (needle valvue assembly) will touch with the top of the carburattors.

I wasnt sure that the three cilinders are working so i have check there is spark in each one. Didnt do a compress proof with the machine, but seems to be compression closing with one finger.
There is no any alarms sounding or with the light. I am putting new impeler.
Also i am changing the fuel filter inside the motor and the one that is outside for the water. The conection with the rubber tube are checked.
I have checked all three carburators are working at the same time, they are oppening together and closing together.

In the picture attached, (throttle rod adjustment there is a little gap between "c" and the "6" and may be this is the reason for not working at full throttle.
I didnt rebuild fuelpump at any time since the last ten years, and didnt check the revolution counter attached at the middle carburator.

I dont know what else could be.
Thanks a lot,
Dont worry in ask something else

[Solarman]

Ponsbor, the rev "gear counting coil" should be next to flywheel to count teeth, must be proper distance by Suzuki manual. The TPS (throttle positon sensor) is usually mounted on the middle carb, connected to the throttle linkage.

Do not change linkages unless you know they are messed up? If they are still set from factory don't change them.

This is an old motor, and compression by "finger over plug hole" is NOT a proper test.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[PonsBor]

Hello Solarman,

I am quite sure that is going to be a bad level in the cube of carburator bowl. By the way is no more loosing fuel by the surplus, this is a good news. I am putting again carburators outside and trying to increase the level of fuel a little, and tell if this was the problem

The linkages are still set from factory, i will not change them. Like almost all the motor. I am quite satisfied with this 32 years old motor.

I am trying a good test compression with the manometer and telling the results.

Thanks a lot

[PonsBor]

Hello,
Nice to meet you all, in special to Solarman.
I have a one question, In the picture attached, the bar with the number "1", it suposed to open the carburators, and in the manual says should be 14,5cm and after adjust. This circuit is working in middle revolution, at 25% open gas, so i think the effort should be direct, i mean, i could play with the distance, so carburators are opening earlier or later, it depends of the distance. If i am putting the bar number "1" short, it will open carburators early, and if i am putting quite long, it will a little more time to open carburators.
Any ideas, sugestion?
For what i know the force has to be direct, so it means to have the bar number "1" as short as posibble, How about if should be more short and its at maximum of the regulation with the screw (this is number 7 in the picture)
Thanks a lot

[Solarman]

Ponsbor, LEAVE the linkages alone. They have to be adjusted properly. If you mess them up, the carbs won't operate together properly. They will be out of sync. If you dont know what you are doing then pay someone to fix your motor! And tell them everything you have done to it.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[PonsBor]

Ponsbor, LEAVE the linkages alone. They have to be adjusted properly. If you mess them up, the carbs won't operate together properly. They will be out of sync. If you dont know what you are doing then pay someone to fix your motor! And tell them everything you have done to it.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

Hello Solarman,
Thank you so much.
For me the best option would be to put it in a profesional, the problem is that i live in a small town, and there is only one profesional that in the past is not making good works. Why? Because there is bigguer boats that they are repairing.
Linkages ive been touching always, why? always the same, because the gear was making always sound, and because sometimes is gettind no adjusted (every three years more or less)
This is the reason for ask for help here in this chat, to try to find someone else with a similar motor and he is doing by himself
More or less i know how it work, opening all together, and closing at the same time all three carburators. The bar for the gear and for the gas, that this is the one that opens the carburators.
Another posibility is to go directly to the suzuki store but they only get motors that previosly has sale, because again, they have too much work.
Thanks again
I am posting new result and videos

[PonsBor]

Ponsbor, LEAVE the linkages alone. They have to be adjusted properly. If you mess them up, the carbs won't operate together properly. They will be out of sync. If you dont know what you are doing then pay someone to fix your motor! And tell them everything you have done to it.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

Hello,
Thank you Solarman for your time.
I am adjusting what i said the position in the picture with the number "4" the cable for gas opening. I am putting a little more near, so now its doing more faster the transition between slow revolutions and middle revolutions. The result was great, boat flying again. Also running at maximun speed i can feel the little sound intermitence and that is not getting the 100% of power, more or less 80%. In the next cleaning of carburators i will increase a little the level of gas in the bowl. The air screw its adjust at 1,25 laps opening each one. I dont know why a little more rich than after. Otherwise i am quite happy with the results because i am not going at maximum and the good news does not stall. In the next reparation i am buying a compression meter.
Thank you so much for your help.
Keep in contact

[Solarman]

Ponsbor, the air mixture screws are only for idle, set all exactly same by service manual setting.
You have 2 butterfly plates for each carb. The outside/front butterfly is used to choke the carbs for cold starts (if needed). The inside butterfly (back of carbs at the intake manifold side of carbs) is the throttle butterfly plate. This butterfly is slightly open at idle, and fully open at full throttle. Adjust accordingly so butterflies reach each position fully.

Good luck, post back and let us know.