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[Wendell11]

Ok big thanks to redlowery helping me diagnose a bad ecu due to the corrosion hole in the engine holder. I had the hole welded and the welder did a great job but I guess it got a little warm and melted the gasket in a small area. Water dribbles out while running. So my question is how does it all come apart to change gasket? I have tried Google and I am not having much luck with removal process. Can I take the whole lower in one piece? Have the manual but i don't see a clear process for removal? Any help is appreciated really want to get her in the water.

[Wendell11]

Has anyone ever removed the power head is it hard to do ?

[briscoe]

What size engine. Yes we have. Not too big a deal. Need a engine lift to just hold it up while you remove lower stuff. I have a complete write up for DF140. The 90-115 are same.

[briscoe]

I don't know if you have a manual. They are worth every penny. They have fantastic pictures. You really need the book.
One thing the manual does not discuss is using gasket sealer with the new gaskets between oil pan and engine holder then engine holder and power head on BOTH SIDES OF GASKET. They indicate using it on one side.Use a small bead on both sides. Use Suzuki 1207B, I used an identical product called Permatex 2, soft gasket sealant. Not silicone seal.

If you are replacing the engine holder .

• Disconnect the battery.
• Remove the lower unit.
• You have to remove the silencer/exhaust manifold.
• To lift up the power head. It's pretty clear which bolts you have to remove. There are few hoses and brackets in the way you need to remove. However, you don't need to remove the wiring harness. You don't need to remove the electric parts holder as described in "Power Unit Removal" section. Leave the fly wheel alone. I think you have to un-wire the battery cable at the starter, but not the starter (do not remove). As I recall there are a few other wires that are in the way in the front of the engine.
• You don't have to remove the swivel bracket or mid unit (I think that's what it's called). You just have to support all that: Driveshaft housing and oil pan
• I remember there is one thing you have to take off the old engine holder. You are supposed to use heat to remove it and I didn't. I think I broke that part. The book didn't say I needed to use heat to separate that part. I believe it was the shift linkage, called the clutch control lever, I think. You have to use heat to get it out of the engine holder. Heat the engine holder aluminum up and it should expand enough to drive the clutch shaft arm apart.
• When you lift the power unit up use an engine lift. Make sure you keep the power head as horizontal as possible when jacking up the motor lift. The loop (eye) where you hook the hoist is not exactly in the center of gravity. The power head will try and tilt forward. You have to make sure to keep it as level as possible because the bottom of the crank shaft, below the timing chain, sits inside a seal and bearing in the top of the engine holder.

I hope this helps if you need to clarify anything let me know. It's not a bad job. Take detailed pictures of each side showing how the wires and hoses are routed. I replaced all my water tubing. I purchased a roll of wind shield wiper fluid tubing. Take your time. You can do it.
Some of the long bolts will be frozen and have scale deposit on bolt shaft. They will unscrew most of the time but if they are frozen I have used some heat and PB Blaster to break it down. Someone said they used some other product and it really dissolved scale. Use one of those hand held heat guns. I also used hard plastic wedges to separate the power head, putting force on the scaled up bolts.
Good Luck,
Briscoe