04 DF140 Engine Holder and Steering Arm Replace Advice

[Marcel4t]

Anyone here ever replace the engine holder on their DF150/115/90? Older corrosion fix (JB Weld) has failed and a crack on holder has developed leaking water. I am planning it now, and also while I'm there I'm replacing the crumbling apart rusty steering arm. For anyone who has done this, any other suggestions on things to replace while the powerhead is off? I'm praying to the mechanic God that I dont break bolts!

[Murray]

I hope your prayers are answered. I would suggest you get a genuine Suzuki service manual. S e l f f i x e r dot c o m (all one word) has a manual for your engine.

[Murray]

I would suggest you get a genuine Suzuki service manual. Well worth the money.

[briscoe]

Murray's advise is wise. You don't have to remove all electrical components. In particular you done have to take everything off the power head. If you have an engine lift you can simply lift up 6" to remove other stuff. You will need to drop lower unit so the mid unit can be held up. When the engine holder is unbolted nothing holds unit, except for hydraulic steering. Let me look around, I tried to make notes what work it entails.

[briscoe]

I don't know if you have a manual. They are worth every penny. They have fantastic pictures. You really need the book.
One thing the manual does not discuss is using gasket sealer with the new gaskets between oil pan and engine holder then engine holder and power head on BOTH SIDES OF GASKET. They indicate suing it on one side.Use a small bead on both sides. Use Suzuki 1207B, I used an identical product called Permatex 2, soft gasket sealant. Not silicone seal.

If you are replacing the engine holder .I hope this helps if you need to clarify anything let me know. It's not a bad job. Take detailed pictures of each side showing how the wires and hoses are routed. I replaced all my water tubing. I purchased a roll of wind shield wiper fluid tubing. Take your time. You can do it.

• Disconnect the battery.
• Remove the lower unit.
• You have to remove the silencer/exhaust manifold.
• To lift up the power head. It's pretty clear which bolts you have to remove. There are few hoses and brackets in the way you need to remove. However, you don't need to remove the wiring harness. You don't need to remove the electric parts holder as described in "Power Unit Removal" section. Leave the fly wheel alone. I think you have to un-wire the battery cable at the starter, but not the starter (do not remove). As I recall there are a few other wires that are in the way in the front of the engine.
• You don't have to remove the swivel bracket or mid unit (I think that's what it's called). You just have to support all that: Driveshaft housing and oil pan
• I remember there is one thing you have to take off the old engine holder. You are supposed to use heat to remove it and I didn't. I think I broke that part. The book didn't say I needed to use heat to separate that part. I believe it was the shift linkage, called the clutch control lever, I think. You have to use heat to get it out of the engine holder. Heat the engine holder aluminum up and it should expand enough to drive the clutch shaft arm apart.
• When you lift the power unit up use an engine lift. Make sure you keep the power head as horizontal as possible when jacking up the motor lift. The loop (eye) where you hook the hoist is not exactly in the center of gravity. The power head will try and tilt forward. You have to make sure to keep it as level as possible because the bottom of the crank shaft, below the timing chain, sits inside a seal and bearing in the top of the engine holder.

[Marcel4t]

Murray I have the manual. I was asking for any pointers and tips from people who have actually done this, as many times the manual doesn't tell the whole story. That's what's great about forums like this, people trading information and not having to just read a book. Thanks Briscoe!

[Marcel4t]

I don't know if you have a manual. They are worth every penny. They have fantastic pictures. You really need the book.
One thing the manual does not discuss is using gasket sealer with the new gaskets between oil pan and engine holder then engine holder and power head on BOTH SIDES OF GASKET. They indicate suing it on one side.Use a small bead on both sides. Use Suzuki 1207B, I used an identical product called Permatex 2, soft gasket sealant. Not silicone seal.

If you are replacing the engine holder .I hope this helps if you need to clarify anything let me know. It's not a bad job. Take detailed pictures of each side showing how the wires and hoses are routed. I replaced all my water tubing. I purchased a roll of wind shield wiper fluid tubing. Take your time. You can do it.

• Disconnect the battery.
• Remove the lower unit.
• You have to remove the silencer/exhaust manifold.
• To lift up the power head. It's pretty clear which bolts you have to remove. There are few hoses and brackets in the way you need to remove. However, you don't need to remove the wiring harness. You don't need to remove the electric parts holder as described in "Power Unit Removal" section. Leave the fly wheel alone. I think you have to un-wire the battery cable at the starter, but not the starter (do not remove). As I recall there are a few other wires that are in the way in the front of the engine.
• You don't have to remove the swivel bracket or mid unit (I think that's what it's called). You just have to support all that: Driveshaft housing and oil pan
• I remember there is one thing you have to take off the old engine holder. You are supposed to use heat to remove it and I didn't. I think I broke that part. The book didn't say I needed to use heat to separate that part. I believe it was the shift linkage, called the clutch control lever, I think. You have to use heat to get it out of the engine holder. Heat the engine holder aluminum up and it should expand enough to drive the clutch shaft arm apart.
• When you lift the power unit up use an engine lift. Make sure you keep the power head as horizontal as possible when jacking up the motor lift. The loop (eye) where you hook the hoist is not exactly in the center of gravity. The power head will try and tilt forward. You have to make sure to keep it as level as possible because the bottom of the crank shaft, below the timing chain, sits inside a seal and bearing in the top of the engine holder.

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply all this back, really helps me a lot! Thank you I will let you know how it goes. I have a feeling that not all the bolts that go through the engine holder into teh block will survive and it will be an issue to take out some broken bolts. If so, that issue will be tackled.

[Marcel4t]

Ok, one of the bolts broke off at the head, barely put any pressure on it and it snapped, very rusty. Hoping when I pull the engine holder off I will be able get a vice grip on the remaining part of the bolt and break it free from the block.

[briscoe]

I see it's been sometime since you posted the broken bolt. I hope everything separated for you. I know once you split things apart you can PB Blaster and work out the broken bolt. I assume it broke off above flush, where there is some bolt left to grab.
Please post back and let all know how your work went. When I don't have to pay a shop to fix my stuff, it's a great day.
Briscoe

[Marcel4t]

I see it's been sometime since you posted the broken bolt. I hope everything separated for you. I know once you split things apart you can PB Blaster and work out the broken bolt. I assume it broke off above flush, where there is some bolt left to grab.
Please post back and let all know how your work went. When I don't have to pay a shop to fix my stuff, it's a great day.
Briscoe

Yes, I got the powerhead off, it was a nightmare. Because the bolt broke at the head, there was about 2 inches of bolt in the engine holder than into the block, which made lifting the powerhead off impossible as the block wouldnt lift straight up and it would bind on the bolt. I think the bolt was also corroded in the passage of the engine holder. I finally wound up breaking through the engine holder with a chipping hammer. That exposed the bolt and allowed me to lift powerhead off. It wasn't pretty but it worked. Then I finally got the bolt out with vice grips. Not a fun job, but glad it is done! Waiting on a couple parts for lower unit before I start the engine up and test it out. Thanks for following up!

[briscoe]

I wish I had seen this sooner . I suspect you're complete, but if not put grease on the bolt shafts when reinstalling. I had the same thing happen to me. That was mucked up. Make sure you check the oil after ten minutes into trip and stay close to the boat ramp. You're going to be making sure there is not any water getting into oil. I learned the hard way, use gasket sealant on both sides of gasket. Nothing like doing that job twice. Hope all is well. If it's running you just saved 1500 bucks, minimum (not counting their mark up on parts).
Good job, Briscoe

[Marcel4t]

I wish I had seen this sooner . I suspect you're complete, but if not put grease on the bolt shafts when reinstalling. I had the same thing happen to me. That was mucked up. Make sure you check the oil after ten minutes into trip and stay close to the boat ramp. You're going to be making sure there is not any water getting into oil. I learned the hard way, use gasket sealant on both sides of gasket. Nothing like doing that job twice. Hope all is well. If it's running you just saved 1500 bucks, minimum (not counting their mark up on parts).
Good job, Briscoe

Briscoe,
Thank you, just saw this reply. Yep, got it up and running! No water in oil, I was nervous about that too, but so far it's been fine. Dealt with a couple of other issues, like not going into reverse (adjusted cable) and now it is not charging. But, making progress! Thanks for your support and encouragement.