Is this peeing dangerously weak?

[Moonlighter]

I’d recommend that you get the connector that normally goes onto that outlet. Then it will be far more apparent whether the water pressure is up to scratch.

I think its part #5 on this diagram
https://www.boats.net/catalog/suzuki...210001/oil-pan

There seems to be a good volume of water coming out of that pipe now.

[Mastiff]

Oh, thank you! A good amount sounds very promising! But do all Suzukis have that cover? I have seen so many wihtout it, is that because they all loose it? I thought maybe it wasn't used on all models.

[Moonlighter]

Oh, thank you! A good amount sounds very promising! But do all Suzukis have that cover? I have seen so many wihtout it, is that because they all loose it? I thought maybe it wasn't used on all models.

I’ve actually never seen one WITHOUT the fitting - it can be turned/adjusted so the water stream shoots out to the left, right or even upwards. The idea is that this allows the Captain to aim it wherever they want so they can quickly and easily see from the helm that the engine is pumping a strong stream of water.

But hey - Im in Australia where we dont get winters like you do in Norway! We are shivering tonight, its the coldest night so far this winter, its 9:00pm and temp is down to 15.5 C! Brrrrrr!!

I just went and got a pullover!! LOL!

So there is no issue here with winterising engines etc. In fact winter is often our best boating weather as the winds are usually lighter and more predictable.

I guess its possible that for some weather related reason, they fall or get taken off where you live?? Maybe you could ask your Suzuki dealer?

Or, I could come over there and have a look at it for you when this pandemic is over - I do actually have Norwegian heritage, my Great-Grandfather was Norwegian, Born in Christiania (Oslo) I believe, and lived/worked in Risor. He was a seaman, crewed on cargo ships, and jumped ship in Melbourne in 1883, and never left Australia again!

Norway Its definitely on my list of places to visit, to see where he lived in his younger years and explore the country. We were already planning a trip before Covid19 reared its ugly head.

[Mastiff]

I lived in Risør for 19 years, until 2016. Now I'm back in my home town Mandal, at the very southern tip of Norway, around two hours from Risør. And I'm guessing that I would have problems with the heat in Aussie! But visiting the family roots is always fun! Have a nice trip when you get to it. Seems like Norway will open for tourists late this summer, but only if they have an approved vaccination certificate, and that means only European Union so far. But next summer should be good. Risør is a place you really need to visit in the summer, it's totally and completely dead in the winter.


I will ask my dealer about that squirting part tomorrow, I'm going to pick up a thermostat and replace that since I have the boat on land and expect to have it out until next spring, and I want to make sure that it isn't running cold in the winter. I don't suppose they will have the pressure vent in. But maybe the O-ring gasket that I need for it, so I can at least take it out and check if it's clogged. And if they by some miracle have the squirting part I'll get one of those too, I will just have to take it off in the winter. The small hole will almost certainly freeze up in 10-15 below zero.

Thanks for the tips!

[Murray]

A couple of points. You can test your thermostat, place the thermostat in a pot of cold water with a thermometer and heat the water slowly while watching the thermostat, it will open as the water warms up and be fully open by the time the water temperature reaches the temperature rating of the thermostat. In automotive applications the rated temperature is stamped on the thermostat, not sure if Suzuki does the same. Another way to check the thermostat is to start the engine and touch the hose leading into the thermostat, it will be cold on startup and slowly warm up as the thermostat starts to open. One poster on this forum had his thermostat plugged with sand/silt/corrosion so taking the thermostat off to check isn’t a bad idea.

I never take my tell tale indicator off for winter and haven’t had an freezing issues. I leave the engine in the down position so the cooling system can drain and more importantly rain water can’t collect in the exhaust port at the propeller and freeze. My boat spends winter in an unheated garage in northern Canada

[Mastiff]

Thanks, I have actually thought about the same, I'm going to buy one of these tomorrow and run that before I buy a new thermostat:

Termometer.png

But do I need a gasket when I remove the thermostat? And more important, where is that located on a 2012 DFI 140? I have seen some engines with two thermostats, but I'm pretty sure this is not one of them. Is it in a housing below the upper plastic covering on the motor?

[Murray]

Not sure exactly where your thermostat is, will be at the top of the engine. Follow the hose and look for a plastic elbow that feeds the engine, likely under the ring gear cover. There will be a cover seal, replacement will depend on the condition of the existing seal. As alway check for leaks after reassembling.

[Mastiff]

OK, thanks! I will get the thermostat out before I take my Honda Blackbird to drive to the Suzuki dealer (I seriously need to make up my mind about brands here...). Then I can get a gasket if I need one.

[Moonlighter]

I lived in Risør for 19 years, until 2016. Now I'm back in my home town Mandal, at the very southern tip of Norway, around two hours from Risør. And I'm guessing that I would have problems with the heat in Aussie! But visiting the family roots is always fun! Have a nice trip when you get to it. Seems like Norway will open for tourists late this summer, but only if they have an approved vaccination certificate, and that means only European Union so far. But next summer should be good. Risør is a place you really need to visit in the summer, it's totally and completely dead in the winter.


I will ask my dealer about that squirting part tomorrow, I'm going to pick up a thermostat and replace that since I have the boat on land and expect to have it out until next spring, and I want to make sure that it isn't running cold in the winter. I don't suppose they will have the pressure vent in. But maybe the O-ring gasket that I need for it, so I can at least take it out and check if it's clogged. And if they by some miracle have the squirting part I'll get one of those too, I will just have to take it off in the winter. The small hole will almost certainly freeze up in 10-15 below zero.

Thanks for the tips!

Let me know if you have any trouble getting the part, Im good friends with my local Suzuki dealer and can try to find one for you and post it over. He has some parts motors sitting around be a decent chance I can scavenge the parts for you.

[Mastiff]

Now I know that the thermostat is not stuck open. I found the housing (no covering over that on my engine), and I was unable to get it out carefully, so I tried a YouTube trick and ran water through the muffs and revved the engine. The thermostat did not pop up, but I could at the same time see that there was not a drop of water coming out of the thermostat. I didn't run it long enough to get it to open, but I didn't see the point. I already know that the thermostat opens, because there's no problems going full speed for 15 minutes and then idle for an hour while I pull and reset my crawfish pots.

I also managed to get out the water pressure valve, and that looked perfect. Not any signs of build-up of anything, nothing stopping it from closing. And I could see in there that there was no problems at all with buildup of salt or muck inside the water channels (I don't use it anywhere with fine sand bottom, which is quite rare in Norway, and the previous user didn't either). So I think replacing the impeller, plate and cup was enough, there is probably nothing wrong here.

Moonlighter Thank you, very much! Appreciate the offer. I am going to the dealer today, and I have found a few DF's being parted out, so I think I will manage locally. If not I'll let you know. Edit: That was easy. And cheap! Around 17 US dollars, and my dealer would have it in a day or two!

[Mastiff]

Also I have decided to do a citric acid flush, in a new, 90 liters barrel, so it's high enough to give me the correct flow.1,5 kilos of acid powder per 10 liters. My sack is 25 kilos, so I'll just use half (which will be a bit less, but not much).

[Mastiff]

The citric acid flush gave me dirty citric acid water and something that looks pretty good to me. I mounted the outlet part before the flush, and when I ran it first, it was noticeably weaker then this. After the flush this is what I have:

[Moonlighter]

Looks decent flow to me now.

Make sure you give it a good flush with fresh water to get all the acid out.

[Mastiff]

Tanks! Yeah, I ran it 15 minutes with the muffs after the final acid run (I did four 30 minute acid runs with two hour intervals since the acid hadto cool down after around half an hour). This is how it looks inside the anode opening, notice the difference in "slime". Before:



After:



There's no doubt that it did remove stuff in there.

[Richard Friesen]

I am new here and haven't figured out how to start a new topic but this issue seems to have been resolved so please let me tag in here with my question. I am replacing the impeller on my 1988, Suzuki DT75CR.
I have removed the 9 bolts and the bottom piece is as tight as ever and does not come away. Is there some other release that is needed like maybe separating the gears? Whatever it is, how is it done? I would sincerely appreciate some info.