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Brand new 2021 df 250 just clicks when you try to start. It sounds like the clicking is coming from starter or starter cylinoid. Thought batteries were low or had bad cell so I replaced both batteries. No change. Then I thought may perko switch was bad so I replaced it as well as 30 amp thermal fuse that was corroded coming off perko as well. No change. The connections at motor and battery are clean and tight. Now if I hold the key down when trying to crank up on battery 2 on perko, the engine will make clicking noise for 2-3 seconds then crank up. Battery 1 and Battery 1+2 on perko will not crank engine(just makes clicking noise)Dealership that repowered seems stumped and I’m afraid their brand new mechanic is not qualified to troubleshoot. Anyone heard this sort of issue before? Willing to try just about anything to resolve clicking noise when trying to crank 0 hours brand new repower. Thanks in advance for any help!!!!
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That is what the engine sounds like when battery doesn't have enough crank power. I know it's a pain, but you could disconnect the cables from perko and tie them together with nut and bolt. This would eliminate Perko as the issue.. It doesn't make any sense that a new battery doesn't help. Our older engines have an independent (white) wire that ties into motor directly off battery. It carries the battery voltage and tells engine it has enough crank voltage to start motor. I would suspect the '21 model year has the same set up. I don't know if that would be at play either. We have a few electrical wizards around here. They must be out fishing. -
Briscoe,
Even after brand new perko switch? Old and new perko switch doing same thing... position bat 1 no crank, bat position 1+2 no crank, and bat position 2 noise for 2-3 seconds then crank. Seems odd both new and old perko do the same thing. But from what I understand in you suggestion, take direct lead off perko and go straight to battery to bypass perko? ThxComment
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It can only work. It won't be less effective than it is. Doesn't you motor have a white wire directly to the + side of battery? That would be what I checked first. It has to be thereComment
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Do a voltage drop test, that will tell you where your problem is, it is either on the main battery cables going too and from the starter motor, voltage drop coming from the key to the starter solenoid, or it could have an open in the hold in winding in the solenoid, but I doubt it,
If you don't know how to do that, do this simple test remove the spade terminal off the solenoid and connect a jumper wire off the main battery pos cable at the solenoid and touch the spade terminal, if your main cables are fine, the starter will operate.
Come back with the result, that test just bypasses the wiring from the key to the solenoid.
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