Is there somewhere I can identify the length of the motor from the serial number?

[Mastiff]

I need a new lower unit after an unfortunate incident involving a log floating under water and 25 knots... I managed to get back on 3/4 of a propeller blade, from originally 4! It also broke off the fin just below where the oil is, so I can use it for a while, but I won't trust that propeller shaft to last the 7 years I have left to retirement, when I will spring for a new 200 for my boat). I see that there are many available on eBay, but there are different lengths of the drive shaft. I would like to be absolutely sure I get the right one and don't trust my own measuring when it comes to stuff like that. So is there somewhere I can find out if 14002F-113423 means that I have an L or an XL (I believe the shafts are 20" and 25", respectively) on my boat? This is what the engine looks like naked (pic from last fall, when I found the anodes):

2147391868_DF140anoder(2).jpg.b8c73c038d593086401648dca17db25e.jpg.f4bc0bd948b18d69e694349129501105.jpg

And here it is on the boat, in another angle:

bilde.png.007f9f5a761395cd9f82f97146303bb5.png

I think it's an X, but I'm not sure.

[Murray]

https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...fetch?id=44567

[Mastiff]

Thanks, but no. I have been there. It only tells me that the motor is either a TL or TX, which I already know. I want to be sure which one of them it is.

[tsturm]

L = 20", X = 25" Got a tape measure?

[catacom225]

L = 20", X = 25" Got a tape measure?

I though S= 20, L= 25, XL=30

[briscoe]

Easy to determine. Measure from the bottom of the power head to the center line of the prop shaft. It looks like a 25" to me. I assure you, measuring like this will get you the info you need. Remember the timing chain, drive shaft and splined shaft to the lower unit are there (at bottom of power head). There is no mistaking a 20" shaft. They are VERY short. Also, just because you blew up the prop doesn't mean the prop shaft is toast. As for the fin, there are tons of small shops that can shape and weld one in there for you. It would save you around $3500. You will need a new prop, put replacement on the unit with the muffs, you'll see if it's off. You could even buy a blown lower unit shell and use the fin off it. Take it to any weld shop in town. AND, even if the prop shaft is bent, that is a very easy, easy fix. Every Suzuki prop shaft is milled exactly the same, throughout that series. You pull the bearing housing and the prop shaft slips out when you remove the shifter. The spacers between the prop housing you put back in and the shim on the outside of the prop shaft gear you reinstall. Bom, done. As long as you put the spacers/shims back exactly the same, the lash etc, will be perfect. It's not like you are changing out the housing. Prop shaft replacement is a piece of cake to replace. They run $300-350.

[briscoe]

I tried to see where you live, through your profile. It's not filled out. If you're anywhere around the TX Gulf Coast there are tons places that can accomodate.

[Mastiff]

tsturm Yes, I do. I just wasn't shure exactly where to measure. I'll take some measurements and post them.

catacom225 I believe 15" is short.

briscoe I live in the south, but the south of Norway. I have filled out the info now. And here it costs around $700 to weld, and I don't think that's an option for me, given the damage on the prop. I would asume that the shaft has taken a beating:


Prop1.jpg

Prop2.jpg

[Mastiff]

Oh, as for the prop shaft replacement I could of course try that, but the shaft costs as much as a working working lower unit, and a full unit (preferably with the water pump replaced) will save me time, something I don't have very much of. I think I can find a used lower unit on eBay for around 1200 dollars with shipping and Norwegian VAT. The insurance company paid out quite a bit more than that.

So, this is 90 cm, 30 inches, from here to the center of the prop shaft. Is that what you meant?

Measurement.jpg

briscoe Come to think of it I have "Mastiff in Norway" in my signature.

[briscoe]

Mastiff (in Norway), with an aluminum prop. You may not have suffered a catastrophic failure of prop shaft. And, your skeg, I've seen more lower units than yours running with less mass. I forgot about mentioning, you can buy a SS skeg guard that will fit over what you have and be perfect! Look up Skeg guard! $100 You drill two holes and your ready. I've used one before it was great till I knocked a hole in the lower unit!

[briscoe]

look here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=skeg...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Mastiff]

briscoe Thanks, I'm hoping for taht! I am going to put the new prop tomorrow and I guess I'll see pretty soon if the shaft is very bad, at lest. And weird, I actually stubled over somehing like that skeg guard today! And wondered if I was able to fit that in. So there's that regular one, and then there's one that's like a hydrofoil called "Hydro Shield". That one looked very cool! But I'm not sure if I'm able to get that one to stick. It's suposed to have a very nice effect on accelleration too:

[briscoe]

I see more sticking down to get knocked off, when I think of that Hydro Shield. I had the Skeg Guard and the pic I saw of your skeg, with the tip broken off means that SG unit will fit perfectly.

[Moonlighter]

Why not get the propshaft checked for runout?

That will immediately answer the question about it being bent or not.

[tsturm]

So in the olden days the lower units were all the same (yamaha, OMC, merc) the drive shaft length & exhaust housing were different lengths. (at least here in Alaska) 15 short, 20 long, 25 XL. Cav plate to top of exh. housing Good luck All!!