1990 DT150 SS No Spark On One Bank

[Wide_N]

I may have some really dumb questions coming. I know Johnson Evinrude like the back of my hand but not Suzuki. I have spark on the starboard side of the motor only. According to the manual I have tested the following using a DVA.

1990 DT150SS
Serial # is 011202

Red White to Ground 3.7
Resistance 191
Red Black to Ground 4.3
Resistance 236
White Black to Ground 3.7
Resistance 201

Black Red to Green 160
Resistance 279


Orange Green to Black Green 3.4
Resistance 194

Swapped the coil leads and got spark on the opposite side.

I am testing with a motor removed from the boat and with the wiring harness disconnected. I have a 1995 DT150 EFI that I can rob parts from if that helps any. Can anyone point me in the right direction on testing sensors that might be the issue? Thanks in advance.

[Solarman]

Is the 1990 dt150, efi also, Or carburetor version?

In the earlier motors the heat sensors, flow/temp sensors, and oil sensors could shut down one bank from firing, if not getting good readings.

Likewise, depending on the motor, and [IF] you have a neutral switch on that motor (?), this could also interfere with one bank firing.

There are timing coils under the flywheel, and a gear counting coil (counting each tooth) at the flywheel.

If not connected to wiring harness, is it possible that disconnection is causing the ignition control module to shut-down one bank as protection?

I couldn't tell you what the wire colors are, refer to your manual for wiring diagram and the proper manual sections for testing those sensors.

Post back when able to let us know how it's going. Good luck.

[Wide_N]

I think I will wait until I get it on the boat before I do too many more tests. I downloaded my manual online and the pictures are too blurry to see so I may have to order the real thing. Do you have a link to the best one to purchase? Also, it is carbureted. The parts motor I have is a 1995 and is EFI. Thanks for the help!

[Wide_N]

Update

Just a quick update. I got the motor mounted on the boat. I am getting a warning "beep" and the third oil light is on. I have not had a chance to look at the manual or do any checking. I will post back as soon as I do.

[Wide_N]

Update

Well it turns out it was the power pack. I replaced it and it has spark on both sides now. The spark on the starboard side is stronger but I think it will run fine when I get the carbs cleaned. I won't even try to start it until then.

[Wide_N]

Please Help!

Well it turns out it was not the power pack. Guess I was just dreaming. I retested the stator and the resistance 285 and the DVA volts were 140. Both are out of specs. Could this be causing me to have no juice to one bank only? I have tested everything else according to the manual and it all tests good. Someone posted they were looking for a lower unit! I may have one pretty quick if I don't figure out the problem!

[Solarman]

Your parts list shows a neutral switch mounted near the throttle linkage, please inspect that switch before condeming the motor. Add i said, it is one of the items used to disable spark to one bank.

Post back what you find out. Good luck.

[Wide_N]

I will check that today! Thanks so much for your help.

[Wide_N]

OK Solarman. I went home to test it. Light green/Red to black was open. I was trying to find brown and yellow (which is what i wrote down) and it should have been B/Y to black. I noticed it looked like some wires had been spliced so I cut the tape off. There were 3-4 wires that were not even connected. I will connect them back and retest. Also, Do you know if a wiring harness from an EFI 1995 will work on this carbed 1990?

[Wide_N]

I can't find a Brown/Yellow wire to test on the throttle Valve. Any ideas?

[Wide_N]

OK I found the brown/yellow. I tested and it is supposed to be open when in neutral. It was closed but I would not think this would keep me from getting spark. I have been using a downloaded manual but the wiring diagram is so blurry I really can't read it. I ordered a paperback manual and it should be here tomorrow. I tested the resistance on the stator again. It is 289. The manual calls for 180-260. Could that be causing me to get fire to only one side?

[Solarman]

If the switch is supposed to be open/ closed, this can indicate a problem to control module, and put motor in limp mode. If the control module senses a problem it may shut down 2 cyl, 3 cyl (one side), to respond to the error.

Try jumping across switch and then opening circuit and see if you get spark again.

How accurate is your meter? Are you testing these circuits per the suzuki manual? I don't know?

Yes, your magneto, rectifier & regulator can cause problems, but so can the condenser charging coils, magnets on flywheel, gear counting coil, throttle position sensor (tps), and CDI system.

Good luck, post back when able to let us know how it's going.

[Wide_N]

1990 DT 150 For Sale

Solarman I tested everything according the the manuals. The only thing I can even question is the stator. The Seloc manual gives readings for high speed and low speed. It does not give any wire colors. Low speed resistance is 325-575 and high speed is 50-100 ohms. The Suzuki manual specs call for 185 Volts DVA and I got 140. It calls for 245-270 ohms and I got 285. When I was packing up for the night I hooked up my inline spark tester and could see a little bit of spark on the port side while the starboard side would nearly blind you. It is easily visible in the dark but not enough to jump across or set off the timing light. So I guess I do have a little spark on the port side but not enough if that helps you help me. I fixed three evinrudes today with electrical issues but feel like an idiot with this Suzuki. I know you are busy but man i could use some insight. Thanks again for your patience.

[Solarman]

It sounds like you are giving me ohm readings on the high and low condenser charging coils. You would need to know what wire colors you're reading, to be sure. But there are more than just those wires coming out. The dt150 should have 3 pulse coils, a gear counting coil, multiple charging coils, and the high & low condenser charging coils. Without a wire schematic, what are you measuring resistance on?

Try swapping a good firing coil with one that is firing a weak spark, just as a test. If spark is still the same on that weak coil disconnect neutral switch (leave it open), and if spark still the same, try shorting the two wires together.

You need a dt150 wiring schematic, you might try and Google one.

The Seloc manual is poor when it comes to suzuki's. Some things are accurate, but it leaves a lot out.

You might be able to google a suzuki dt150 manual, and parts for your motor. But without one, i can't tell what you are measuring.

Post back when able. Good luck.

[Wide_N]

Sorry. I have both manuals. The Suzuki online which is blurry when it comes to wiring diagrams and the seloc that I got for the diagrams. I have measured ohms and the DVA output of the pulsar coils, gear counter and stator. The stator is a about 20 volts under what the Suzuki manual calls for with a resistance of a little more than what it calls for and the batter charge resistance is .8. The manual calls for .01-.4. Everything else checks out except the water float and I tried jumping that one across and still nothing new.

I am starting to think that I have a bad stator. I picked up this motor for $150 and really don't want to give up on it but my frustration level is going up and up.