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I'm having the same issue that many seem to have with Suzuki's. I have 2012 DF225. No tilt/trim at the binnacle, no gauges, and engine won't crank. Checked the infamous white wire from battery to engine. Fuse is good, connections are good, and meter reads 12.6 volts at the pigtail in the engine where it plugs in. However, when I unplug the 16 pin wiring harness in the engine, the white wire there only has 3.6 volts on it, also reading 3.6 volts at the helm on the harness. If I jump 12v to the white wire at the helm (cut and spliced to switch only, didn't run 12v back to engine through the harness as there was already 12v volts there) I now have gauges, trim, and the motor will crank but not start. I'm unable to trace where the white wire goes from the pigtail at the engine, but I assume it must go through something before going back to the main harness to the ignition switch. Any help?
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White wire to the ignition switch
From the 'on' position the gray wire goes to the ECM to power it up
The white wire also goes to the coil side of the ECM relay
Did you read my 'sticky' at the top of the thread list?
By wiring around you are getting power to everything but the gray wire
It could be you ignition switch is the problem
You should have 12V st the white wire going to the ignition switch (without wiring around it) - then when turning to the " on" you should see 12V on the gray wire
Art -
Art, I rechecked and have 12v on the gray wire back through the wire harness(key on) with the 12v jumper I installed from the main power buss in the center console to the white wire at the switch. With this configuration, everything works as should except engine won't fire off. Starter cranks as it should.
The problem as we've narrowed it down, seems to be between where the white wire pigtails to the engine and the wiring harness connection at the engine compartment. 12 volt reading at pigtail, 3.6 volt reading at wiring harness connection. I've tried to find wiring schematics online to no avail. Wondering if the white wire goes through any relays or rectifiers before it reaches the wiring harness. Something that might be causing the voltage drop and keeping the engine from firing. Thanks again for any help.
Sorry, I'm new to the forum and don't know where the "sticky" you mentioned is located.Last edited by Steve White; 02-06-2017, 12:36 PM.Comment
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Steve The sticky is the second thread at the top of list
Need to remove jumper as you are then bypassing part of the wiring to do your testing
If you do a search for Suzuki model @ year service manual you will find one that has a free online PDF copy
Ultimately you may want to order the real service manual
Without jumper are you getting 12V at the ignition switch white wire? I suspect the white wire from the battery to the ignition switch has a break
you are getting feedback from the ECM relay with the 3.6v reading
To rule out an ignition switch problem use your ohm meter on white wire in to switch and gray wire out Key off should be nothing key on should show closed circuit
The white wire I refer to is the one that comes off the positive post on the battery or off a lead from battery on/off switch terminating at the ignition switch
Replace any butt end joints as you test it
ArtComment
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Just wanted to update in case someone else reads this thread in the future. It actually was the white wire. The fuse was good and the fuse holder looked free of corrosion, however at the back of the fuse holder about 1/4" of one wire was swollen. I cut the wire there and it was total corrosion. Not sure how I was still able to read 12.6 volts at the motor, but it obviously was not allowing any amps to come through under load. Connected the wire direct to the battery switch and everything works. I have a new waterproof inline fuseholder on order. Thanks again for the help!Comment
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