Fuel Drain Procedure DF90A 2009

[Murray]

Recently purchased a 2009 DF90A, engine has not ran since 2014, previous owner estimates 30 hours on engine. 2014 winterization was done by a friend of hers and she assumes fuel was stabilized, previous winterizations done at dealership with fuel stabilizer added. After reading many post on this forum I have decided to err on the side of caution and drain the entire fuel system even though with the previous winterizations and the little use the engine has had since, there should be enough stabilized fuel in the system that the ethanol portion of the 87 octane should still be suspended in the fuel.
My plan of attack:
1) Syphon all the fuel from tank
2) Replace low pressure fuel filter
3) Drain Fuel Vapor Separator
4) High Pressure side is where I get confused. Not sure how to get residual fuel from the high pressure side out.
5) Orginal impeller(2009) will replace it.
6) Check engine/lower unit oil for cleanliness and levels
7) Start it up with muffs with fresh fuel plus a good dose of Seafoam, check engine for leaks and abnormalities.

Looking for guidance re the high pressure side of fuel system and any comments/suggestions on my "plan of attack"

I do have a service manual for this engine. Somewhat mechanically inclined.

Thanks

[artdf175]

Check your manual for draining the fuel rail
Oil is over two years old so would change and use new filter
Drain and replace lower unit oil as well
While changing out the water pump would suggest lubricating the drive shaft splines when you reistall lower unit
Not sure what year they started keep engine data on the ECM
If this engine does it might be worth getting a read out and see if any alarms are present and this will also tell you exactly how many hours are on the engine

Does the fuel system have a water/fuel filter between the fuel tank and the engine?
Otherwise I think you have a pretty good handle on it
Good luck

[Murray]

Thank for the quick reply.
Looked at the manual again, particularly "Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure" Not a lot of help. There must be a plug/drain at the bottom of the delivery pipe(fuel rail)? No where in the manual can I find any mention of draining the fuel. This will be the third winter of sitting, I'll be very impressed if there is any pressure remaining in the high pressure side.
Can/should I warm the engine up with the old oil prior to changing it or am I risking problems down the road?
You mention a read out, that would be through a computer at a dealership?
Yes, thanks for reminding me re drive shaft splines and shifter rod also.
The boat doesn't have a fuel filter/water separator yet. It's on the to do list.
Thanks again.

[Moonlighter]

Yes, you can get a readout when a dealer plugs the motor into their laptop, using the Suzuki Diagnostic System. You can ask them to give you a printout or XL file of the data. Good idea so you've got a history.

It will show actual engine running hours plus all history of fault codes, plus it will show you the hours run at each 1000 rpm. Ideally you want to see some time over 5000rpms and even some over 6000 - this will show you that the engine has been propped in the right range. (See note below)

Definitely get that water separating fuel filter on the fuel line.

I would change the engine and gearbox oil before starting it, as Art suggested.

Note: And, once she is running, had a trip or two, and warmed up properly, make sure that the prop that is fitted allows the engine to rev right up to at least 6000rpm at Wide Open Throttle. (WOT). These engines need to be able to rev to this range to give their best performance and economy at normal cruising revs.

[Murray]

Thank you gentlemen.

[artdf175]

I believe there is a plug at the bottom of the fuel rail..
with the high pressure line disconnected at the pump side you should be able to put an air hose on one end or the other and blow out any remaining fuel
I wouldn't start the engine with old oil..
tilt it up a bit so it will drain to the fullest extent..
Art.

[Murray]

Yes, I believe there is a drain plug at the bottom of the fuel rail, I don't have the boat at my residence so I can't check. I didn't want to trailer it at -30C temperatures for 400km. Stuff breaks to easy at those temperatures besides I can't use it anyways.
I will replace oil/filter before I start it, I'll have no shortage of oil to prelube the cylinder wall! It's brand new oil, your concern would be moisture/condensation from the many freeze/thaw cycles?
For the fuel I'm going to start at the tank and follow the fuel path methodically working my way through the system. After reading all the issues with fuel lines deteriorating I'll take some lines off and check their condition.
I got a Suzuki maintenance kit on order so I'll have everything I need for the maintenance.
There is a lot of very useful info on this forum, even if one doesn't have the same problems the replys offer some wisdom/preventative maintenance ideas.

[Murray]

Finally got the boat home, drained the fuel and replaced it with fresh. Put a teaspoon or so of mixed 2 cycle oil/gas in the spark plug holes. She fired right up at the first attempt. RPM's at start was 1100 RPM and as it warmed up the idle dropped to 800 RPM and that's where it stayed. I was expecting the idle to go down to 650ish. All this was done on the trailer with muffs since the ice fishermen have not relinquished the lake yet. Ambient air temp. was 4C and cooling water supplied is cold.
Would the air temp./cooling water cause a higher than normal idle speed?
How accurate is Suzuki tachometer?
Thanks