Hi. My 2001 Suzuki DF90 starts and runns normal. When I put it in gear it keep running smooth until I hit about 3000 RPM - then it starts running rough. If I keep the throttle steady the engine sometimes runns fine for a few seconds before it goes back to running rough. When I reduse the RPM to below 3000 it will keep running rough - but runns smooth if I stop and start it again. I had some water in the fuel system last fall so I thought that was the issue. I have cleaned the tank, replaced the water separating fuel filter, low pressure fuel filter and high pressure fuel filter and cleaned the VST tank. This had no effect on the issue. My next guess would be the injectors or som kind of sensor issue. There are som fuel getting through to the oil system too. Any suggestions?
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Suzuki DF90 runns rough on mid range to high RPM
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Have a read of this thread, it may be relevant.
https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...-motor-studder
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Originally posted by Moonlighter View PostHave a read of this thread, it may be relevant.
https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...-motor-studder
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A little update - and more questions
I put the fuel pump back, and got the motor diagnosed. The software showed that the IAT sensor had failed one time. Other than that there where no faultcodes active. When testing the fuel injectors I had positive results in three of the "Injector - stop - test"(engine stalling). In the fourth injector there where no change in how the motor ran. Thinking this could be due to a faulty injector i removed the fuel rail and cleaned all four injectors. When I put it back, I changed the order of #1 and #4 to see if any problems would change from cylinder #4 to # 1. Unfortunatly there where no changes to the engine - and it was still cylinder #4 causing the issue. The next thing I did was to run a compression test to all cylinders. The test ranged from 14 - 17 (And normal compression is 13 - 17). When I put the ignition plug wires back, I wiggled it a little, and a light "click" sound implied that something happend. Although I had run ha spark - test earlier, I might have been lucky running this test, as there seems to be a bad connection. Now the motor runs more smoothly and reaches 5500 rpm (normal is 5700 at max) but It makes a terrible "crackling" noise at some RPMs, and it also appears to lack som of the accelration I used to have on the boat. I will order 4 new ignition plug-wires just to see if it helps the engine running more smoothly, and also change oil and filter again since it is a bit of fuel in the oil. (I hope this is caused by running the engine on three cylinders while testing it - and that this will solve the issue).
Does anyone have any idea of what can make this "crackling" noise? It sounds like a leak in the exhaust-system, but maybe there is some other explaination. Could a faulty IAT sensor cause these problems? The engine runns normal at low RPM, and at some ranges as I throttle up.
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Originally posted by Skiffmate View PostRufsen,
Any updates for us?
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New update: I had a mechanic over to see if he could identify the noise. We took the boat out for a test run. He agreed that the noise sounded bad - but he thought the motor ran smooth. He suggested a new oil change, and to further inspect the engine when the boat was on dry land. After removing the lower cowlings, I found the problem. There was a hole (Could almost put my index finger in) coroded in the motor, causing an exhaust-leak.
båtmotor.gif
As a quick-fix, I sanded the area down, and filled the hole with chemical metal. I hope this will last through the season, so I can use the boat for the rest of the summer (till mid September). The engine now runs smooth, with no bad noises. When I was aware of this problem, I checked google, and found that more Suzuki DF90's have corroded in the exact same area. When I get the boat home to the garage later, I'll se if I'll take the cost to change this section, or if I'll buy a new engine...
Båtmotor 2.gif
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This was a problem with pre-2008 engines in the 90-140 family that all use the same engine block, same cc capacity. Been well documented.
You can do what you have done or something a bit more permanent - eg weld up the hole, or, the big fix is to replace the engine holder. Whether that big fix is worth doing on a 2001 engine would be the question.
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