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B76DAEF0-0449-46A9-BD18-05A28842B1A1.jpeg2015 DF 300 AP - Check Shift Control 8-3
First post here, appreciate the forum and info shared. Would like to pay it forward to the next poor guy trying to resolve this problem. It certainly appears to be a very common issue, but did take more time than intended for me to tear down to make the repair.
1) motor going into gear but sluggish/slow
2) rule out shift actuator motor, rule out corrosion in busing on clutch lever and clutch shaft arm
3) disconnect linkages from shift actuator motor and shift linkage going to lower unit
4) once disconnected, clutch lever should be able to be rotated pretty easily, if not then clutch lever and associated clutch shaft arm and bushings are likely corroded/gummed up
5) with lots of hand force I could barely move the clutch lever
6) believe this is the problem, time to remove clutch lever and clutch shaft arm to clean up and replace bushings
7) tried separating clutch lever from clutch shaft arm to no avail - don’t forget e-clip at bottom of clutch shaft arm - it may be corroded into the shaft and not identifiable.
8) tried pulling/pushing clutch shaft arm off from the bottom under the cowling, this resulted in a slightly bent arm and broken leg on gear puller
9) don’t forget lots of penetrating fluid
10) Hail Mary - file flat spot on end of corroded clutch lever shaft, using a hardened steel dowel or beefy center punch make some solid taps on the shaft with a BFH, with still no luck apply a little heat to the shaft then hit with BFH
11) this will likely destroy your bushing with the heat but it’s a last resort and ended up being the ticket for me.
12) for fun, I hooked up the motor to 12V and bumped it one way then reversed leads to move other way - motor checks out- match mark motor and output shaft prior to bumping
• Bushings are on the way, $2.88/each only really need one
• Reassemble and relubricate - what to use? Really don’t want to repeat again, but motor is only 4.5 years old.
• IMO, this is a crappy design, NO way to lubricate without pulling/pushing clutch lever shaft out of hole with bushings.
• Bushings appear to be a very tight fit on OD into hole and ID for clutch lever shaft, and due to tight lobed shaft and the fact that saltwater will migrate up the bottom of the exposed clutch lever and into the bushing assembly, corrosion will begin and continue to fill the voids in the lobes.
• clutch shaft arm and clutch lever appear to be stainless, motor through hole where bushing resided is aluminum.
• what is the easiest way to setup shift position sensor, manual says twist. Can this be done without 3 wire test harness?
Hope this may help someone in the future.
B76DAEF0-0449-46A9-BD18-05A28842B1A1.jpeg2015 DF 300 AP - Check Shift Control 8-3
First post here, appreciate the forum and info shared. Would like to pay it forward to the next poor guy trying to resolve this problem. It certainly appears to be a very common issue, but did take more time than intended for me to tear down to make the repair.
1) motor going into gear but sluggish/slow
2) rule out shift actuator motor, rule out corrosion in busing on clutch lever and clutch shaft arm
3) disconnect linkages from shift actuator motor and shift linkage going to lower unit
4) once disconnected, clutch lever should be able to be rotated pretty easily, if not then clutch lever and associated clutch shaft arm and bushings are likely corroded/gummed up
5) with lots of hand force I could barely move the clutch lever
6) believe this is the problem, time to remove clutch lever and clutch shaft arm to clean up and replace bushings
7) tried separating clutch lever from clutch shaft arm to no avail - don’t forget e-clip at bottom of clutch shaft arm - it may be corroded into the shaft and not identifiable.
8) tried pulling/pushing clutch shaft arm off from the bottom under the cowling, this resulted in a slightly bent arm and broken leg on gear puller
9) don’t forget lots of penetrating fluid
10) Hail Mary - file flat spot on end of corroded clutch lever shaft, using a hardened steel dowel or beefy center punch make some solid taps on the shaft with a BFH, with still no luck apply a little heat to the shaft then hit with BFH
11) this will likely destroy your bushing with the heat but it’s a last resort and ended up being the ticket for me.
12) for fun, I hooked up the motor to 12V and bumped it one way then reversed leads to move other way - motor checks out- match mark motor and output shaft prior to bumping
• Bushings are on the way, $2.88/each only really need one
• Reassemble and relubricate - what to use? Really don’t want to repeat again, but motor is only 4.5 years old.
• IMO, this is a crappy design, NO way to lubricate without pulling/pushing clutch lever shaft out of hole with bushings.
• Bushings appear to be a very tight fit on OD into hole and ID for clutch lever shaft, and due to tight lobed shaft and the fact that saltwater will migrate up the bottom of the exposed clutch lever and into the bushing assembly, corrosion will begin and continue to fill the voids in the lobes.
• clutch shaft arm and clutch lever appear to be stainless, motor through hole where bushing resided is aluminum.
• what is the easiest way to setup shift position sensor, manual says twist. Can this be done without 3 wire test harness?
Hope this may help someone in the future.