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Hi all new member needs help bad please

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  • I ran jumper from c8 to neutral switch brwn wire and there was no change? But test light touching it a x jumper from batt grd made it run like it should? What's diff?I'm adding a outside grd? But I've quadruple checked all my grd point

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    • Run a jumper from neutral switch And connect to starter solenoid

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      • Solenoid yellow with green stripe just to be sure? From been wire at safe switch? Correct

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        • Ok, With that voltage being low at zero the computer will only let the engine rev to 3000 rpm, it thinks it is in neutral, when you un hooked the the ground, the voltage will rise back up to 5 volts and the computer will think it is in gear and let the engine rev to max.

          Leave the jumper hooked up between C8 and neutral switch, check the terminals on the yellow and green striped wire at the neutral switch and the starter solenoid, if they look crappy cut them off and fit new ones, connect the wires back up to the neutral switch and starter solenoid. Connect the jumper to the neutral switch and starter solenoid, yellow and green striped wire, the reason I want you to jump while wires are connected is, in the crank position the computer needs to see cranking voltage on pin D11. When the the key is turned on that voltage on C8 should fall to zero in neutral going to ground at the starter solenoid.

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          • The safety switch don't have connections I can fix or remove, the wires go into it and it's sealed.

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            • I will do that and post

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              • Ok , I did all that and it would start then I shut off and it wouldn't start again till I touched been wire with test light still. So I thought to pull neutral safe switch off and just see what it was doing. It was somehow telling it that it was in neutral and letting it start but wasn't letting it run right. So I squeezed the switch really hard with fingers and it fired right up and ran great? I unhooked all jumpers and put everything back to factory, tried to start and it cranked but no start, I pushed neutral safe switch hard with fingers and it started fine! So this whole time was it just shitty connection inside safe switch? We tested it several times? I'd think we would have found that a long time ago? So I just jumpered the wires at the plug like I had before and it works fine? I did that before and it didn't work? Why now?

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                • I think the best thing to do is a full resistance check of the wiring between c8 and neutral Switch between c11 and neutral switch with ohm meter all plugs disconnected From computer and battery disconnected.

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                  • What kind of resistance should I have? Just continuity?

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                    • Yes and from c11 to solenoid terminal disconnected

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