Hi all new member needs help bad please

[Chaddy]

It lit up test light?

[Chaddy]

U did get that it is starting now didn't u? It' was just running on one cyl but now all the sudden it's hitting on two?

[redlowrey]

Ok pull the connectors of the injectors and see if it still runs, if it doe's it is running on leaking injectors, if it doe's not run, check the grounds on the injectors with your test light connected to battery pos, probe each ground, light should blink. If the light blinks on each one, the computer is doing it's job, connect the the connectors back up and note which cyl is not working and we will go from there.

[redlowrey]

I should have put, crank the engine while probing the grounds.

[redlowrey]

If you still don't have any grounds on the injectors, make up a ground wire and go from battery neg to a ground on the computer, What I normally do if I think I have a ground problem, is use a high wattage test light connected to battery pos and probe the grounds, if the test light lights bright, the ground is good, if it doe's not light no ground, if it lights dull poor ground. All of the black wires coming out of your computer is a ground, and the black with white trace on D1 is sensor ground all should light up your test light.

DO THIS FIRST REMOVE BOTH WIRES AT THE NEUTRAL SWITCH AND JOIN THEM WIT A JUMPER, I think the resistance in the neutral switch is too high for the bias voltage to go to ground, but low enough for the starter solenoid to work, when you join the wires turn the key on and check the voltage on C8 and it will be zero. If I am right, I need a kick in the arse for not picking it up earlier.

[Chaddy]

At first when it was running I could pull connectors off top and bottom injectors with no change, middle one would kill it. Now for sum reason I can pull bottom one with no change but top and middle kill it? Don't know what changed but it's running on top two jnj now? I will do the tests above and post results. Thanks so much

[Chaddy]

Ok jumping brwn and yellow with green stripe at neutral safe switch key on I still get 4.43 volts dc in neutral? I started it and use noid lights to test inj grds and I have grd on all 3? When I first started it if was only running on center cyl, I know cuz I unplugged each one at a time. After a min or so the top one started hitting also leaving just bottom one not hitting, but I have pulse grd on it?

[Chaddy]

My hi press fuel pump is running constantly now too. Wasn't before?

[Chaddy]

If I hook my test light to ground my LED test light to ground and start the engine with the brown yellow with green stripe neutral safety switch jumper while it's running if I touch my chest light to the round c8 at the computer it starts running on all cylinders really well

[redlowrey]

Ok run a run a jumper from c8 to the brown wire at the neutral switch

[Chaddy]

With nuetral switch reconnected

[redlowrey]

Your test light is pulling the voltage to zero this is what we needed to see this is why the engine is running on all cyls

[redlowrey]

Try it if it does not run jump it

[redlowrey]

Once it is up and running find out why you had no reading on the IAT

[Chaddy]

Ok this is weird? I went out and started it like normal and it started in neutral like it should and has been but it was running rough, I took and ran jumper from c8 to brown wire at neutral safe switch, it started running on all cyl and smoothed out! But it would only rap up to bout 2500-3000? I took and ran jumper from batt neg to c8 and it ran smooth, if I unhooked that grd jumper it still ran s.ooth and wrapped up all the way to full throttle! I ran it a bit to be sure it was cooling now and it was so I shut it off to see if it would restart, and it did a couple times then stopped starting, it would just crank! Until I touched the grd back to c8 then it would start! But just have to touch it till while cranking real fast and it starts!