Hi all new member needs help bad please

[redlowrey]

About ten posts back I said to you don't worry about the way the engine is running until you sort the neutral switch wiring out, very simple, in neutral zero volts, in gear five volts, cranking, battery voltage on pin D11, if you had no ground and the meter was supplying it, the voltage would have showed on the screen when cranking. I explained to you how the system worked, the colour of the wires, the pins to check.
You spend all this time trying to work out why the engine will only run on one cyl, and when you ground the injector is stops. I explained what you were doing and why, if you had no ground on any of the injector grounds you tested, the engine is running because one injector is leaking and is running on the fuel escaping from the pintle under pressure.

What briscoe is saying that when a circuit has lost its ground, the meter is supplying the ground when connected and will show the reading. If that was the case in your problem you would of seen the voltages being tested, but you have not,

The last place I told you to connect was sensor ground, D1 connect your high wattage test light to battery pos and probe the terminal the light should light, or connect your meter on mv and connect the black to a good ground and the red to the pin turn key on and crank should not have more than 20mv. The only thing that is a bit concerning as far as lost ground is you had good voltages on the temp sensor and exhaust temp, you had nothing on iat and they all use that ground so that could have been a place where the meter could have had a false reading from a lost ground, but I think if you lost sensor ground there would be multiple failures in the system and a check engine light.

[Chaddy]

Ok well I really appreciate all the help, can't thank u enuf for spending this much time helping. But I can see u are getting frustrated. I will stop bothering you. Thank you very much again, and be safe

[briscoe]

Chaddy, don't give up. Red Lowrey gave u tons of help. Run with it

[Chaddy]

I have? I don't know what else to do? IV checked everything I know? Neutral switch is Workin? I'm lost? It has to go to a professional I guess?

[redlowrey]

If the neutral switch is working that's good, therefore when in neutral do you have zero volts on your brown wire C8, five when in gear, and cranking voltage at D11 yellow green stripe.
This is what we need to see before moving to the next step, Do that sensor ground test with the test light to battery pos and see if it lights, D1 Black with white trace in the same plug as D11very important ground wire.

[Chaddy]

Do I check those voltages on brwn wire with key just on or eng running? Just on I assume?

[redlowrey]

Key on for the brown wire, cranking for the yellow with green stripe. Make sure you do the test on the sensor ground with the test light as I said before in the last post.

[Chaddy]

4.65 volts dc brown wire key on in neutral, in gear it has 4.7 volts dc. Do have grd at d1 blk with white stripe key on. With key on there is only 5 volts dc on d11.

[redlowrey]

Chaddy those are the same voltages we had a week ago, that's what you should see if it was in gear. I cant understand when you done a continuity test from the computer to the neutral switch it was good, we will go a different way, with shifter in neutral, remove the yellow and green striped wire off the starter solenoid turn the key on, there should be 5 volts on the wire, if there is, make up a jumper and ground it, then check the voltage on the brown wire and the yellow with green stripe at the computer should be zero.

Did you check the sensor ground wire at the computer with your test light connected to battery pos, or did you use the multi meter.

[Chaddy]

I used the test lite connected to post batt post to check sensor grd. I will do these tests in a little bit and post results. Thank u very much for helping!

[Chaddy]

I don't have any voltage on the yellow with green stripe wire off the solenoid?

[redlowrey]

Ok make up a jumper wire with an aligator clip on one end and solder a thin needle on the other so you can slide it down beside the pin with the brown wire, clip to good ground. turn key on there should be zero volts on the brown wIre and the yellow and green wire D11. If there is, crank the engine and it should start and there should be cranking voltage on D11.

[redlowrey]

Dont make the jumper up when you turn the the key to the start position battery voltage will go to ground.

[Chaddy]

Ok thank u

[redlowrey]

My hunch is it is open between C8 brown wire and the splice, and by grounding it will trick the computer thinking it is in neutral, normally when in the start position the battery voltage will go to a resister. But if I am wrong it will go to ground on the jumper.
Do this instead remove the plug from the computer, disconnect the brown wire and the yellow with green stripe wire off the neutral switch and ground the brown wire, connect your test light to battery pos and probe pin C8 brown wire, if you have continuity it will light I don't think it will light, meaning it is open between pin C8 and the splice. If that is the case go a head with the jumper on C8 brown wire.