It doesn't crank in gear
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Hi all new member needs help bad please
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Now I'm not getting water out the tell tell and hot liht comes on I pull the main water hose off thermostat on top of head and no water I am getting water coming out of the fvs cannisters that cools the fuel and it branches off the main hose at the bottom before it goes up to therm. ? But I get water come out exhaust in prop if I run water down that main hose? Shouldn't it come out of the intake vents? Not exhaust? And if I put water up the tell tell it comes out exh not intakes? This is driving me nuts! Lol I took throttle and shifter apart to make sure there was no prob in there and switches all test good I redid all elec connections cleaning and greased, I checked swith on eng where been and yellow wire go into a switch that pushes by the gear shift cable and it test fine open and close?
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Originally posted by redlowrey View PostThe only two wires we need to worry about at the moment are the brown wire, and the yellow with green stripe, the brown wire is supplied battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position and will go to the neutral switch via the ecu. From the neutral switch it changes to yellow with green stripe, it will go to the starter solenoid via the ecu. The engine will crank over and normally start.
Now this is where the lock out takes place, for the engine to start when it is in neutral with the key on, the ecu will send 5 volts through the brown wire through the neutral switch to ground at the starter solenoid sending the voltage to zero, if the neutral switch was open that 5 volts will stay high. If the voltage is high when you turn the key on to start, you will not get an injection pulse.
Also when the engine is cranking in your case there should be cranking voltage at both pins C8 and D11 brown wire and yellow with green stripe the ecu uses this input as well.
You have no cranking input on those two pins and when in neutral cant get that brown wire to drop to zero, this is why I want you to use the higher wattage globe to pull that voltge down, there should only be a small amount of current on that wire and the globe should not come on at all.
The circuit from the key to the neutral switch to the ecu and then to the starter should be easy to trace and find why there is no input when cranking.
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I don't know what to do now? I still don't get why if I touch one inj wire it starts running on that cyl too if I touch the one it runs on it kills eng and if I touch bottom one nothing changes? It's driving me nuts! I'm ready to give up. And now it's not putting water to the head? I pulled lower and the impellar is like new, and in correct, the therm works great in boiling water,it was pretty clean in there,I am getting exhaust in the big hose to therm and out pee hole? But no water at head at all? Could press valve be stuck open with shmthing? Are u in the states? Or elsewhere? Just wondering. The owner is getting impatient. I told him to take it to boat shop And wait 3 months. We don't have any boat shops within 200 miles of us.
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Originally posted by Chaddy View PostI don't know what to do now? I still don't get why if I touch one inj wire it starts running on that cyl too if I touch the one it runs on it kills eng and if I touch bottom one nothing changes? It's driving me nuts! I'm ready to give up. And now it's not putting water to the head? I pulled lower and the impellar is like new, and in correct, the therm works great in boiling water,it was pretty clean in there,I am getting exhaust in the big hose to therm and out pee hole? But no water at head at all? Could press valve be stuck open with shmthing? Are u in the states? Or elsewhere? Just wondering. The owner is getting impatient. I told him to take it to boat shop And wait 3 months. We don't have any boat shops within 200 miles of us.
Pull the plugs out and clean them up or put new ones in, I know you say it can run well but I want you to test for spark on the two cyls that dont work, I want you to check for an injector pulse on the two cyls that dont work with the connector disconnected and led test light on the ground wire connected to battery pos, I want you to get continuity on the brown wire ecu to neutral switch, and I want you to check these pins, there is a plug on the ecu with four wires on it, red and black, red with white trace, white with a black trace, put your meter on ac and the black clip to pin D1 in the same plug as your yellow with green trace wire. This wire is sensor ground, black with a white trace, red clip, probe the other wires while cranking, this engine has three crank sensors one for each cyl, also when I asked you to check the iat air temp sensor you had nothing, it uses the same sensor ground as the crank sensors. You think this is doing your head in, I thought this was going to be a simple fix.
I am in Australia.
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No way! Australia! I have always wanted to go there so bad! That's awesome! And ya I'm sorry u got tied up in this.lkl I really really appreciate ur hell though! Can't thank u enuf! Dam it would be nice to visit there!ok I will do the tests and get back to you thanks again
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Chaddy, you have been doing g all of these IE tests. I can't get the thought of your having a ground wire issue. So many places in this thread you complete the circuit with your test meter. I hopw my advise is worth more the price charged.
Briscoe
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