I'll do all this and get back. When u say 10'5 do u mean 10.5? Volts? And 4'8 is 4.8 volts? Thanks so much!
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Hi all new member needs help bad please
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C8 is the brown wire in the twelve pin white plug, D11 is the yellow and green wire in the 12 pin black plug, 10`5 was a round figure of what the cranking voltage should be, and 4.8 volts is what you had in neutral key on. I can see the yellow and green wire in your photo above the brown wire. You should have it going tomorrow.
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Brown wire has 5 volts in neutral,. 5 volts in gear and 5 volts cranking this morn? In neutral pin five probe light comes on? Ok on the yellow with green stripe I have 0 in neutral key on and 0 cranking on the green with yellow stripe I have 5.3 key on in neutral and same cranking?
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Do you have a normal test light not led If so connect it to ground and probe the brown wire key on it should not light crank engine while probing the the wire the engine should start.
The higher wattage globe should pull the voltage to zero.
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The only two wires we need to worry about at the moment are the brown wire, and the yellow with green stripe, the brown wire is supplied battery voltage when the key is turned to the start position and will go to the neutral switch via the ecu. From the neutral switch it changes to yellow with green stripe, it will go to the starter solenoid via the ecu. The engine will crank over and normally start.
Now this is where the lock out takes place, for the engine to start when it is in neutral with the key on, the ecu will send 5 volts through the brown wire through the neutral switch to ground at the starter solenoid sending the voltage to zero, if the neutral switch was open that 5 volts will stay high. If the voltage is high when you turn the key on to start, you will not get an injection pulse.
Also when the engine is cranking in your case there should be cranking voltage at both pins C8 and D11 brown wire and yellow with green stripe the ecu uses this input as well.
You have no cranking input on those two pins and when in neutral cant get that brown wire to drop to zero, this is why I want you to use the higher wattage globe to pull that voltge down, there should only be a small amount of current on that wire and the globe should not come on at all.
The circuit from the key to the neutral switch to the ecu and then to the starter should be easy to trace and find why there is no input when cranking.
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Got it, I can't tell you how much I appreciate ur helping me in this and wasteinv ur time when u could be doing anything else! Thank u thank u! I will gladly send u money via PayPal if u have a account ? If not I'll do it Another way!I appreciate it alot. I'll do the test in a bit and post results right away. I hope I can find it today? Lol
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Ok I proved been wire at ECU and it started! But it's only running on one cyl? If I probe the org with BLK stripe wire on top inj it starts running on two, if I probe bottom jnj red with white stripe the test light lights but nothing changes in the way it runs like the top one? If I probe center inj wire BLK with yellow stripe it kills eng?
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Mate don’t probe an injector with a high wattage test light. At least the engine started, pulling that voltage low allowed the computer to ground the injectors.
I think someone has bypassed the lock out system put the shifter in gear and try and start it if it cranks they have.
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