Hi all new member needs help bad please

[redlowrey]

This is what I explained in the first post if the light doesn’t come on it means there is an open circuit between the ground side of the injector and ecu.
If the light stayed on all the time it means there is a short between the ground side and ecu.

To do this test make sure you connect your test light clip to battery pos not ground.
It sounds like the terminal block where the ground wires connect is open.
You need to track the grounds from the injectors to the ecu.
When you connect up your test light to battery pos touch ground with the probe and make sure it lights before you do your test.

[Chaddy]

Will double check tomorrow to be positive I'll post back first thing . Thank u much

[redlowrey]

Has your computer got one plug or five separate plugs that connect to the computer, if it has, the bottom plug has 8 wires coming out of it, blue, orange, geen, coil grounds, black and yellow, injector ground, orange and black, injector ground, red with white trace, injector ground, and black, and black.
Those two black wires I want you to test, put your multimeter on mv, milli volts, and test them with the key on and cranking, there should be no more than 30mv, they could be the ground for the injectors.

I thought those early engines had a terminal block for the injector grounds, they haven't they go straight to the computer, so if the test light don't light with the connector removed connect it back up and go to the
computer.

Turn the key on and connect the test light to ground this time and check each of the injector grounds at the computer the light should light on each one, also with the key on probe the black wires, the light should not light.

If the light still does not come on you will have to do a continuity test between the computer plug and the injectors. Use a thin needle to slide down between the pins on the computer,

[Chaddy]

Ok inj connector off test light connected to post batt, I get nothing on inj? I do have voltage at org/BLK, red/why,and BLK/ylw at ecm plug? The two BLK wires ,on my meter I only have 200m which I assume is millivolts? I never use that setting? But I tested both BLK wires on 200m and they both had 4.2 @? Hope this tells u shmthing?

[Chaddy]

I know there's continuity in the wires from ecm to inj cuz I have power at both ends

[redlowrey]

I don't know if the early computer pin numbers are the same as the late ones but pin 5 is a brown wire and when you turn the key on in neutral there will be 0 volts on it, shift into gear 2`5, battery voltage when cranking. if you have 2`5 volts in neutral the ecu will not put a ground on the injectors, that means someone has altered the wiring to the starter relay.
There is no switching taking place at your ecu, the wiring is ok to it, you know it will start by grounding the injector through the test light.

Check pin 5, if you have 2`5 volts on it connect your test light to ground and probe the pin, that will pull the voltage to zero crank the engine and it will start. I can't imagine you having two faulty computers, you didn't say if it had one plug or five.
Can you give me a bit of history on the motor.

[Chaddy]

Sorry it has 5 plugs and wires colors just as I still try those now

[Chaddy]

Do u mean 2.5 volts, ?,what do u mean here sorry I'm probably reading it wrong? "shift into gear 2`5, battery voltage when cranking. if you have 2`5 volts in neutral"

[Chaddy]

I don't know what pin is pin 5? But there's only one brown wire in all of them that connect to ecm and it has 4.8 volts with key on in neutral,and when u put it in gear it stays same and when u crank in neutral it went to 5 volts?

[Chaddy]

And it fired once before I ever touched it this time?

[Chaddy]

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[Chaddy]

Ok history, the boat was running fine last yr when put up, they sd they winterized it but they didn't drain fvs tank?? So it was full of gelled fuel, so I replaced hi press pump and reg, cleaned out and put new hi and low press filters, low press pump works great, hi press pump runs when turn key on.blew all fuel lines out.put brand new injectors and garunteed ecm off running eng I saw a video of it running it just had low comp and they parted it.

[redlowrey]

[QUOTE=Chaddy;n56175]I don't know what pin is pin 5? But there's only one brown wire in all of them that connect to ecm and it has 4.8 volts with key on in neutral,and when u put it in gear it stays same and when u crank in neutral it went to 5 volts?[/QUOTE ''''''''''''''''''Something is not right here, when you crank the engine it should have at least 10`5 volts if the battery is charged, it should be zero in neutral and approx 2`5 in gear. connect your test light to ground and probe pin 5 with key on in neutral and see if the light comes on or stays off. There is a yellow and green wire in the plug above what is the voltage on that when the key is on, then cranking, should be around 10`5 volts when cranking.

This early five plug ecu has a different lock out system than all the models after.

[redlowrey]

I found a wiring schematic for your early computer and it is the same as what I mentioned above, 0 volts in neutral five volts in gear the only difference five volts not 2`5 key on in gear, you have 4`8 volts in neutral this is why there is no injector grounds, the ecu thinks it is in gear. It should not be able to crank in this situation but it is. Do those other tests mentioned above.
As I mentioned above can you connect your test light to ground and probe that pin and see weather it lights or stays off, if it stays off keep the probe on it and crank the engine if that voltage falls to zero the engine will start.

[redlowrey]

This early five plug ecu has a different lock out system than all the later models. Looking at the wiring schematic the ecu does not control the starter relay when in gear, just controls the injector grounds, where as with later engines the ecu will control starter relay, and injector grounds.
This is why I never gave it a thought because you could crank the engine. In that brown wire which is called c8, there is a splice where it branches off the main lead to the neutral switch to go to the ecu it must be open, this is why it won't drop to zero when in neutral. The yellow and green wire I want you to check is called d11 in the black plug. You will have it up and running very soon.