The lever does open butterfly a little not slot but does open it , how do I connect meter to see if ecm is grounding injectors?
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Hi all new member needs help bad please
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Ok all, I just Wana tell u all what I did, ok I replaced high pressure fuel pump and regulator, cleaned everything out including lines, then new cam sensor, then new/used ecm garunteed, then new injectors. If there's anything else replaceable I replaced that too. Still wouldn't start! Have good hot spark at plugs,perfect compression, if I spray carb clean or ether in intake it will run all day long, that tells me injectors are not working! I have voltage to injectors but could never get any kind of pulse? Can't find noid light set. Talked to a Suzuki tech and they sd they had a brand new one in the shop doin same thing and it turned out to be air leak in fuel connection and that was just something to look for but that after replacing all that and still not running, he had no clue where to go next! It has no codes at all. I checked and tightened all fuel line clamps and bypassed quick connect from tank and there are no air of gas leaks. I put everything back together and told the guy to take it to a Suzuki tech. I'm done! It outsmarted me and I'm sure it's something small and stupid but I've wasted countless hours on it and I'm done! So no I never figured it out. If someone does I'll try to post here. Thanks for all the ideas and have a great 4th!
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Three weeks ago I asked you three things can you use a multimeter, check to see if the computer was grounding the injectors, check the temp sensor signal voltage, you reply how do you it.
that tells me you can’t, that makes it hard for me to guide you.
Your problem is a simple fix.
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Ya I did that all I have used a meter for over 30 yrs in automotive ,small ,eng and high voltage in house and farm augers among other things, I tested injectors for grounding and they were not getting grounded ever, the guy bought a garunteed ecm, that came off a running eng that had a knock from very reputable boat shop. The. Temp sensor voltage I did forget to check. But I know it has to be shmthing simple as hell but I am missing it? The tech I talked to this morn I explained everything to him, while we were on the phone and he kept asking did u do this and this and I had done it all, he sd after all I had dun he woulda tried also but he could connect his Suzuki comp software or whatever ,but with no codes he has no clue and there are no codes since I replaced cam sensor for code 24. I'm lost?
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OK check the temp sensor voltage with the key on, exhaust temp, iat, depending on ambient temp You should have around 3 volts on the temp sensor and exhaust temp,2 on iat,.
When you turn the key on battery voltage will flow through the injectors and back to the ecu so if you check with a test light or meter you will have battery voltage either side of the injectors.
When you crank the engine the voltage will fall to zero on the ground side of the injectors, those are the wires that are not grey.
Remove a connector from one of the injectors turn the key on you should have battery voltage on the Grey wire only,If you have connect up an led test light and connect the clip to battery pos, crank the engine And probe the other pin the light should blink, if it does not come on at all it means there is an open between the injector and the ecu, if the light stays on there is a short to ground between the injector and ecu.
Do those tests and come back with the results and I will guide you to the next step.
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Chaddy,
I don't know if this is applicable to the DF50, but on my DF140 the fuel system must be pressurized before it will continue to run after start up. If not pressurized, it will act same as yours, ie: start up, run 3-5 seconds and run out of fuel. Here are the instructions to pressurize copied from my shop manual.
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Originally posted by redlowrey View PostOK check the temp sensor voltage with the key on, exhaust temp, iat, depending on ambient temp You should have around 3 volts on the temp sensor and exhaust temp,2 on iat,.
When you turn the key on battery voltage will flow through the injectors and back to the ecu so if you check with a test light or meter you will have battery voltage either side of the injectors.
When you crank the engine the voltage will fall to zero on the ground side of the injectors, those are the wires that are not grey.
Remove a connector from one of the injectors turn the key on you should have battery voltage on the Grey wire only,If you have connect up an led test light and connect the clip to battery pos, crank the engine And probe the other pin the light should blink, if it does not come on at all it means there is an open between the injector and the ecu, if the light stays on there is a short to ground between the injector and ecu.
Do those tests and come back with the results and I will guide you to the next step.
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It will just crank and crank without fireing then I take my test light and touch the colored wire on injector itl start fireing? Sometimes itl start and run smooth as can be for a few seconds? It ran for bout 10 sec one time and I even sped it up then it died.it kinda seems like it's missing a ground to inj or something? I have checked wire harness over and over and it all looks fine?
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The reason the engine started is you supplied the ground for that injector with your test light.
You are on the right track but you need to remove the connector from the injector connect your test light to battery pos and probe the other terminal when cranking, remember you are looking for a ground so you have to supply battery pos.
It sounds like the terminal block where the injector grounds go has a bad connection, keep going you are nearly there.
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