i have a dt55 and it wont start unless you squirt premixed gas in the spark plug holes. The last time i had it out it quit on me and the gas line was full of air. i finally got it running long enough to get to the dock, but now it will never start again unless take plugs out and put gas in. It seems like the gas wont go into the carbs. anyone know what might be the problem?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
dt55 not getting fuel to carbs
Collapse
X
-
OK, what year is the motor, and how long has this problem existed (has motor been stored, or did this problem just start?)?
From how you wrote, it sounds like you're getting air into the fuel line between the tank and fuel pump.
It could be fuel pump is shot (check for cracked/broken fuel lines from pump to tank)? Bad fuel hose, between tank pickup, and pump (try a portable tank with a good hose)? This could eliminate that possibility.
It could be your carb is too blocked up to let fuel through to cylinders (carb need cleaning)?
Your rings (piston) worn so badly they are not creating compression, and also vacuum to pull fuel into cylinders (do a compression test on each cylinder)?
Hopefully you can find some reason with these suggestions? So many things to look for, a little more info could help?
Good luck, post back how it's going when able.
-
i thinks its a 86 im not sure tho it was running fine then died on me
it has a new primer blub . also the tank and line is new . new fuel pump kit and new filter .you can see the gas going through the line till it gets to the carb when you prime it but it wont start.
when i did get it to go long enough to get back to the dock i had to squeeze the ball as hard as i could and i heard a weird noise from the motor.got to the dock and it died its never started since then .
ill do a compression test later. how much should each cylinder have?
thanks
Comment
-
i little update i put the motor in a barrel of water. i prime the ball it was hard and wouldn't start . then i squeezed as hard as i could and it took the gas and started and runs for a bit with the throttle up . when put throttle down for idle it dies and wont start again for a few mins
Comment
-
Sounds like there is some kind of blockage going into fuel pump, or carbs. It could all be related to float levels.
Who put the new fuel pump kit in? It is possible the check-valves (2 clear discs in lower area of fuel pump) have broken and are blocking/ restricting fuel going to float bowls?
Did you put the fuel pump kit in, or someone else?
Post back when able. Good luck.
Comment
-
OK, on the back of the pump there should be a small hole that allows the pressure and vacuum from the crankcase to move the diaphram in and out. Inside the pump there should be 2 clear discs (these are check-valves). If those 2 check-valves are cracked, or fragmented then the pump doesn't work well. If they are fragmented then those pieces will lodge on the backside of the seat that holds the needle valve for the float.
Carefully open the pump and look at those check-valves, then let me know what you find. If these check-valves are good, then you will need to clean each carb separately to prevent mixing up the jets (some older motors had different jets from the factory to balance the carbs).
When cleaning carbs notice any trash found, it might tell if something is breaking down. Also each pas-sage for air & fuel have to be blown clear with compressed air to make sure there is not any blockage. Notice what each air mixture screw is set at before removal (write it down, and take pics so it all goes back correctly.). Each float has to be set the proper height (if too high fuel will overflow out of the front, if too low that carb will run out of fuel at wot causing the motor to run poorly.).
Post back what you find. Good luck
Comment
-
i have a spare motor and i took the fuel pump apart from that and it had a spring inside it and the one on my motor didnt , is there suppose to be a spring in there it doesnt show it on the diagram and the kit didnt come with one , i put it in tho. the new kit has a harder plastic diaphragm
this is the kit i put in , there is no clear plastic disks just metal tabs
the old kit i took out with the spring was a softer rubber diaphram compared to the new one. maybe i should take the spring out?
Comment
-
OK, then the small metal tabs are most likely your check-valves. You mention your pump did not have a spring? Is there a difference in the motors (age, size/hp)? In the motor that has the spring, what did the spring push against? Are the 2 pumps identical otherwise (same diaphram, internal components, etc.)?
If the motors are different years, look at parts page for both pumps, and see if one has the spring and the other doesn't? If they are different part numbers, the spring may be the difference?
Post back when able. Good luck.Last edited by Solarman; 10-18-2016, 11:48 PM.
Comment
-
to tell you the truth i have no idea what year either motor is , one of them is a dt65 but everything looks the same and also the pumps were the same .
the spring in the pump pushes the diaphram toward the exhaust port. that pushes it in and pumps the fuel through to the carbs , you say that the port is a vacume also ? i wouldnt need the spring then. im gonna take the pump apart and try it with out the spring
Comment
-
If your motor did not have that spring, and is not in parts for your motor, then remove the spring.
If you post your tag numbers, or post a pic of your serial number tag, from the clamp next to the transom. We can let you know what year motor you have.
Post back when able, good luck.
Comment
-
Sounds like it starts running out of fuel, and that means back to a fuel delivery problem, did you try pumping bulb when running to see if it made a difference? Or could be a problem with carb? Maybe the idle adjustment/ or pas-sage still not clear, or float adjustment?
Maybe that spring needs to be in the pump?
Let us know if pumping bulb keeps it running?
Post back when able, good luck.Last edited by Solarman; 10-22-2016, 09:37 AM.
Comment
Comment