Help! Wiring question on DF115

[Captain Squid]

I have a 2005 DF115 that was installed 3 months ago and botched by Raiders Marine. The engine should never have been installed so poorly.

That being said Ive had to rebuild the floors and stringers since. I am now back to reconnecting my console. I tagged wires and took photos but still came up with some extra issue mainly because this horrible shop did so things without pride, They spliced wires using diff color wires etc.

So I have a Faria tach/engine monitor. I find they connected the light to straight power instead of to my nav lights so its on all the time.

Ive got a connector, a 4 pin white connector coming from the harness that has no where to go. Anyone know what it is for?

Does anyone know where to find an online manual thats shows the harness connections?

I am so close to getting back in the water but I dont want to turn the key until I am certain all connectors are correct.

Thanks!

[Solarman]

Some connectors might be for adding extra gauges, or different types of gauges? Or extra/ different electronics. Or optional electronics.

Do not connect those/ any wires if you don't have matching connections.

I'm not sure where Raiders Marine is, but it does sound like poor work.

A suzuki service manual would have wiring schematics that you want. You might find someone here that will take a pic of their book schematic and post, or send to you?

The general practice for installs is to use a 1-4 foot extra length harness, to prevent adding different color wires for extra length. I have seen some boats with 3-4 feet extra harness coiled up in bilge.

Good luck. Post back when able.

[Captain Squid]

Thanks for the reply. They are in Tarpon Springs Florida. The harness wire was literally 30 ft long on a 18 ft center console so I had about 20 ft coiled up underneath.

Also didn't user sealant on my engine mounting bolts!

This was a piss poor install for sure.

I can go over to a local suzuki dealer and ask to see the diagram.

Thanks again - happy boating!

[Solarman]

Always use marine 5200 sealant on every penetration that can get wet on a boat.

We had an aluminum structure custom built for our Cat 8-years ago, last year I found out he didn't seal any of his mounting holes. It came loose in rough seas, I spent 2 days adding new supports under flooring that never needed to be done.

Good luck.

[Captain Squid]

5200 sealant

Absolutely a MUST! I cannot believe a company that is supposed to be experts on outboards actually put my engine on without sealing those bolts!

I redid them myself one at a time.

Its just so odd how the the more time I spent having to tear my boat up the more I found done half-ass. so many potential points of failure were created on my boat. This is not the way a boat should come home from a supposed prop shop.

5200 sealant is awesome stuff. After I rebuilt my stringers ( used Ajay6011 for the center stringer and the other 4 new wood. replaced all the saturated flotation, used West Marine two part epoxy system to seal the bottom side of the new floor panels, I ran a bead of 5200 along the stringers before placing the boards down, then used never rust deck screws to secure tightly. Will post some pics later

Captain Squid

[Solarman]

Sounds like an awesome job you're doing.

Many of the newer made boats are using closed-cell foam for structural (stringers & transomes) and flooring. I've worked with some, and it is impressive. I used the closed-cell foam pvc 2x4's to rebuild my supports for my Cat. It is working well. But I still used 5200 to seal all the penetrations. Don't want any more water getting in.

Good luck.

[Captain Squid]

thanks. What I also determined on this boat ( 1980 Manatee 18F CC ) was that when the manufacturer filled below the floor with the flotation they pumped it in through holes in the floor. Unfortunately what that did was go everywhere - including the small areas at the back of the stringers that are cut on a 45 degree to allow the water in different channels should it get in to drain over into the sump collection box. Since those channels were all blocked, the water that did get in stayed trapped. As time went on and holes were drilled and unsealed over the years water worked its way in. Inside the bow area under the platform in the front there was a small defect in the fiberglass where it pulled away and then the anchor hatch cover right above it was removed for God knows what reason. This allowed rain water to get in or any water used to wash the boat and leak down under the floor to be trapped for all eternity or until the boat nearly sank as it did for me. oy ve. what a learning experience for me. In the past ( 80's 90's ) had almost always bought new boats. by the time I get done with this I could have put a 50% down payment on a new 24 CC . BUT the bright side is, I made this new floor and stringers to last and I will be damned if water will ever get in there under my watch again. Oh and yes I used closed cell foam to replace it all.