2004 Johnson (Suzuki) 225 - Check Engine, turns over, not starting

[hanksboat]

The check engine light comes on when key is in the "on" position and stays on. I just get the 1 beep when turning the key on. Boat turns over strong - sounds great - but doesn't fire. I have the full Johnson manual and it seems to only reference the two digit error codes. However, I'm not getting multiple beeps.

History -
The flywheel dropped a magnet and damaged the stator. In the process 3 of the ignition coils bulged out, damaged (over voltage?). I replaced all the parts and even replaced the rectifiers.

The other odd thing is that I noticed the trim will go up on it's own. After turning off the battery or pressing trim down, it usually stops. I unplugged the throttle trim control and it still did it. I unplugged the lower cowling switch and it hasn't happened since - assume bad switch but it was pretty intermittent. Maybe a short also causing the check engine light...?

I worry that maybe the ECM is damaged. Perhaps wiring harness. I'm thinking start with an ECM read at a dealer. However, I have the full service manual and handy with a multi-meter. Considering history and ideas?

[Moonlighter]

There is a sticky thread in the top section of this forum dealing with the Suzuki White Wire and the problems that happen if it is compromised with corrosion etc.

Yours sounds very much like such a white wire issue.

Go and read that thread, its very informative and has good trouble shooting tips.

[hanksboat]

There is a sticky thread in the top section of this forum dealing with the Suzuki White Wire and the problems that happen if it is compromised with corrosion etc.

Yours sounds very much like such a white wire issue.

Go and read that thread, its very informative and has good trouble shooting tips.

Thanks! I had actually started reading that and got through it and some of the replies. There are so many parallels it's hard to ignore. The other indication is that my electronics are very finicky. This boat is new to me, but the seller said none of the lights and only some of the switches worked. I started troubleshooting the fuse block and rocker switches and found clearing corrosion helped some places. But sometimes I still get intermittent power even on the more consistent connections. I just ordered a new block thinking that would solve my issues - havent received it yet.

However, where I thought i was deviating from the white wire problem is that the starter always engages and turns over the engine. Is that still consistent with the WW issues? Also, my trim always works, its just that it would go up on it's own, usually when I was going up and would release, it would keep going.

Should I find the white wire leaving my battery switch and trace it back the the ECM - checking every connection for corrosion? is that the process?

[hanksboat]

I've run a few checks and the white wire looks good to me. The connections look fresh and the battery switch connection was cleaned. I noticed that my low pressure fuel pump didn't seem to be running in the first 6 seconds. I took off the connector and tested the Black/Yellow wire as the voltage checks indicate. I was getting no voltage between it and the negative terminal on the motor. Does this mean it's the ECU or is something else telling the ECU to not send voltage to the fuel pump?

Again - motor turns over beautifully which a lot of the other issues seem to block the starter, like the Neutral indicator for example. Still not sure what's going on.

[hanksboat]

The ECM was bad.

Now that I replaced the ECM, there are no error codes or check engine lights. I now hear the fuel pump for the 6 seconds when "ON". The motor turns over and fires but doesn't fully start. Like a quick fire and back to the starter turning over. It'll jump to a quick 1000 RPMs, with some smoke but that's it.

I took all the coils out 1 by 1 and put on a spark plug - they all sparked fine. I didn't test each spark plug since they were all like new. I'm thinking bad fuel maybe? It just seems so consistent with the firing and not continuing. If it was fuel wouldn't it keep sputtering a bit?

Possibly random, but I did replace the Rectifier when replacing the stator and flywheel since they didn't Ohm out correctly according to the manual. However, the "new" used ones also didn't ohm out correctly. I just assumed the book was off or maybe there was a procedure I wasn't following correctly (yes I know how to use an Ohm meter). However, I assumed a code would pop up if it's a regulator/rectifier issue.

Should I try to drain the VST and go from there?

[hanksboat]

Update:
When I put the shifter in neutral, I pushed the throttle down to crack the throttle bodies open- and it really fired up good- but quickly died. The thing is- it REALLY spins that prop and throws water out of my big container. It’s like it’s starting under load. However, with the engine off, prop is spinning freely.
I went out and checked the Neutral Switch below the clutch lever. When in Neutral, it appeared the switch was pushed in - and out when in gear. Also, the engine turns over in N but does not when I shift in gear. I don't think it's that switch.

I'm wondering if the Shift Postion Sensor or possible the IAC valve could be an issue. From the manual, when the SPS senses fwd or reverse, the starter motor works but the ECM doesn't send signal to the injectors. However, I AM burning some fuel - hence firing and burnt fuel smoke. Also- I'm not getting codes, which I assume you would with SPS issue.

Other background that's probably important- I bought this boat not running and priced accordingly. Owner was running at 45mph and shifted back to Neutral and swears he didn't go back to reverse - and I believe him. The flywheel shed a magnet and destoyed the stator. At the time, my suspicion was that somehow that engine got reversed, leading to the jolting of the flywheel. He also said that his mechanic sometime prior had thrown parts at it for some issue, replacing the IAC which wasn't the problem. Then replaced the "cables" . Not sure if throttle, shift or both. Somehow - it seems all related to what's happening now. Especially since the propeller is turning pretty hard when starting - sloshing water out. It's like the propeller is being engaged in Neutral - which makes sense as to how the propeller may have caught and reversed when the flywheel issue happened. Is something in my lower unit catching when it shouldn't be?

[redlowrey]

Just looking at your first post and where you said you removed the connector from the low pressure pump and tested the black and yellow wire to ground you had no voltage, you won't that is the fuel pump ground the ecu supplies. If you left it connected and tested it you would have had zero volts for six seconds then battery voltage when you turn the key on and don't crank the engine.

You make no reference to the high pressure pump did you check that, it sounds like you are running out of fuel, spray some carbi cleaner or some propane into the throttle to see if it keeps running.
It would not matter if you had the iac valve disconnected when you are opening the throttle manualy it would keep running if the injectors were spraying fuel.