Suzuki DT 40, tiller, no start, confused

[Leebow]

Update-- Last night I was testing the ignition sensor and I decided to move it closer to the flywheel. Then I was checking the low oil sensor, and it works. However, the float doesn't seem to float. I flipped it upside down and I got spark!! So for now I just zip tied it in place, and I will just check the oil at each fuel refill. Let me know if this makes sense, I'm not quite sure how an oil float works, I assume same as fuel float, not sure how it would go bad, looks fine. Next I plan to remove the carb and clean it out, replace the impeller, and try and fire it up.

[D'oh999]

Yes "Low Oil Warning" will put the motor into "Limp Mode" "No Oil Warning" would cause a No Start situation.

You asked if that was an 86-88, Yes, 89 or 90 is when the DT's went Charcoal Color.

My DT 20, was 100/1 premix, my 91 DT25 had Oil Level Warning, Water Temp Warning, and Water Flow Warning.

I would just fix your Oil Float, see if the resistance changes with it's travel.

[Solarman]

Get float working first, oil float is important. Check wires and resistance.
If motor is running poorly after fixing float, explain what it is doing before going through other things.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[Leebow]

I haven't tried to start it yet. I've got the lower unit out to replace the impeller. Then I was going to keep disassembling to reach the broken steering bracket. I'll try and keep you posted daily, apparently I have lots of time now...

Thanks much guys, Lee

[Leebow]

Status Update- I took the motor out to reach the steering bracket, and found the bracket intact, but all the bolts were loose including the 2 big collar bolts. I had to drill out and re-tap one of the bracket bolts to a larger size. Yesterday I took the carb apart and checked the needle and seat. I've never seen a needle like that with a pin in it. How does that work? It doesn't attach to the float at all? It should be ready for testing later today...

[tsturm]

The little spring loaded plunger is "KIND OF" like a shock absorber, absorbs a little bouncing so float isn't adding extra fuel to the bowl with every little wiggle. same reason its not hung on there with a wire clip.
Or some engineer forgot. Brass don't look nearly as green as most that age. Good luck on the project!!

[Leebow]

I put it all back together and now I'm back to having no spark. The ignition sensor has continuity, and it changes when I touch any metal to it, so it must be working. So now I'm wondering if there's a short somewhere. I'm going to recheck the stator wires tomorrow. Also my Suzuki manual has no wiring schematics in it at all, very frustrating. Thanks much, and i'll keep you posted. Lee

[Leebow]

Update, I did some more testing. I checked the spark plug wires, and in only getting 2,500 ohms when there's supposed to be 3,100 - 3,200. So there must be an intermittent short in the coil windings. That means I need to get one of those $500 CDI units, #32900-94421. I don't know if the outboard is even worth that much. Not sure what to do...maybe I can find an NOS.

Thanks,

Lee

[Solarman]

You might Google "suzuki outboard, part#, cdi. There might be a used one somewhere for less money. Just make sure they guarantee replacement of money, or another used part if part is bad?

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[Leebow]

Update--So I decided to bite the bullet and bought a used one on eBay that they said tested good. Maybe im doing something wrong but when I checked resistance I got 2500 ohms, only 20 ohms better than mine. What's even worse is I figured I had nothing to lose with the old one, so I started grinding on it to take off the outer cover and maybe see where the short was. Yes, bad call, but I was frustrated, and I wanted to find out more about how a CDI was made . Now I have NO continuity. I just made a bad situation worse. I really don't want to part this out...there must be something missing here that I'm overlooking. For instance-

When I test the charge coil or the pulser coil, the directions say nothing about removing it from the engine. If they connect to the engine ground at all, wouldn't that theoretically change the resistance value?

Im really not sure how to test the NSI, neutral start Interlock.

I've had the flywheel off many times trying to adjust the pulser coil gap to 0.030. It seems to be adjustable by about a sixteenth inch. I know you guys will tell me I need a pulser coil gap jig, but come on, I haven't seen a spark at all, and I know i'm close.

Let me know what you think, go ahead and give me a virtual smack on the back of my head if you think it will help me.

Thanks,
Lee

[Solarman]

I think you should look back at the oil float, and the kill switch to make sure neither one is causing your "no spark". Then check all ground wire connections, because a bad ground could prevent spark.

If the kill switch has any worn wires, and touching metal, this also could stop spark. Actually, any worn wires, if touching ground/metal could affect spark.

Good luck, post back on what you find.

[Leebow]

Update-I removed the kill switch entirely, per Solarman. The wires looked a bit worn, and there were a few nicks in it. Both wires were nearly melted through at the motor end of the outer sheath where the factory seals them. I removed the entire sheath to inspect the wires. Then I wrapped them with electrical tape all the way from the switch to the terminals. I saw no obvious evidence of burns or contact. I put it all back together, still no spark. Charge coil has 276.7 ohms resistance, and pulser coil has 188.8 ohms resistance. If I put a wrench (metal) on the pulser coil contact, there is minimal to no change in resistance. Also, if I test resistance in the kill switch wiring, I get maybe 0.276 ohms. When I press the kill button, it goes to zero, but it still shows continuity. Is this right?

I have since removed the engine again to check and replace the thermostat, and doublecheck all the grounds. I broke a thermostat bolt off in the head, so I had to remove the head, and I broke another one. Seems all the head bolts are rusted in the middle, not sure why. SO now I need 3 gaskets, 2 bolts, and a thermostat.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Lee

[Leebow]

Update- I just ordered a newer cdi and separate coil (cheaper) but the wiring colors are different. There are no 2-color wires, so I'm not quite sure what goes where. The CDI is Suzuki #32900-94460, used on other DT40's, but I cant find a wiring diagram for it. Can I check resistance and see how they match up? Evidently it's meant for a DT40C-W-G-X model from 1986 to 1989, or a DT40WK1-K4 model from 2001-2004, but I can't locate any diagrams. I'm afraid of burning out the CDI. Can anybody help? THANKS MUCH, LEE

[Leebow]

Update, getting there- I finally got the CDI and coil, and the wires all match. So it was just a bad picture. I just finished up the installation yesterday and checked the spark...Holy Crap, nice and bright blue/white, and even sparks when you barely pull it!!! And I spent $150 on the CDI, and $50 on the coil. Now if either goes bad I don't have to buy both, they are separate units, easier to test. I gat them to barely fit in the original CDI cover. The CDI is aftermarket, from Arieltek.

Next up is head gaskets. Ill try and post photos.

Lee

[Redrider1500]

Leebow what specific CDI did you get from Arieltek? I have a 96 DT40 that appears to have a dead CDI also