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  • #16
    Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
    Excellent! When you get the height right, everything just sits on the water better, sounds better and feels better thru the seat of the pants, hey!

    You would know if its too high because if excess cavitation, so if thats not an issue, you are good. Can you see the cav plate now when on the plane at fast cruise speed, trimmed up?

    Weird that the wp housing was cracked!

    One thing to note for future ref is to always replace that housing when you replace the impeller, even if it gets a tiny little bit out of shape (you may not even be able to notice it) it can affect water flow. My attitude is that waterflow is the lifeblood of the engine and a few extra $ on making sure that part of the system is 100% is money well spent.

    Not sure what the black tube does though. Presumably there is a reason Mr Suzuki put it there so I would suggest you put it back where it was?
    Took my mom n dad out this afternoon just for a ride. It was high tide. My dad said @ its not pumping water. When I looked and saw it not coming out, I was shocked. It's not overheating. I called and spoke to a mech at blue point in jersey. He said pull all the alloys zinc on block. 7 of them. $5 buck each. He said they get packed with sand. Also the poppet valve. I didn't ask where that was. Any clue?? I been boating at the age of 16. I never had this problem with a motor. The only motor I know of, is Honda has this problem. I was a happy guy yesterday and now not so much. Pull boat out again next week. If you can help me with - where is this poppet valve. Thank you so much.

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    • #17
      The plate is still under the water about a inch. I fill the tank this morn. I have 150 gallons in her now. Had two people sitting in rear and I walked back with auto pilot on. I could go up one more hole but I'm 6100 rpm wot. 44 mph. I did 35 mile today with full tank a 3 people. I'm getting 3 mile to the gall. I'm happy with that. Just want to fix this water problem. I can't bring it in and pay a dealer right now. Just moved in to a new house a they said my taxes was going to be no more then $10,000. That was s lot for us. It's $14,800. I'm taped out!!!! If my wife found out that this new motor I bought has these problem. Not good.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Moonlighter View Post
        Excellent! When you get the height right, everything just sits on the water better, sounds better and feels better thru the seat of the pants, hey!

        You would know if its too high because if excess cavitation, so if thats not an issue, you are good. Can you see the cav plate now when on the plane at fast cruise speed, trimmed up?

        Weird that the wp housing was cracked!

        One thing to note for future ref is to always replace that housing when you replace the impeller, even if it gets a tiny little bit out of shape (you may not even be able to notice it) it can affect water flow. My attitude is that waterflow is the lifeblood of the engine and a few extra $ on making sure that part of the system is 100% is money well spent.

        Not sure what the black tube does though. Presumably there is a reason Mr Suzuki put it there so I would suggest you put it back where it was?
        I want to pull some of those zinc that are in the motor head. They have one bolt holding them on. I took the bolt off but the plate is not coming off. I don't want to damage the plate or the block by trying to pry it off. I saw a video how to put the screw back in hold with only a few threads. The plate that comes off has threads on it also. It's not coming off. Any help? Thanks.

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        • #19
          On my 2007 115 the plates were hard to come off as well. I would tap and use pliers with rag to wiggle until they let go. Some were very tough. My poppett valve is located behind a similar plate on the left side. Hope it works out for ya bud.
          Last edited by Seaduck; 09-25-2016, 09:48 AM.
          2005 Carolina Skiff DLX 2007 Suzuki DF 115 4 Stroke

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Seaduck View Post
            On my 2007 115 the plates were hard to come off as well. I would tap and use pliers with rag to wiggle until they let go. Some were very tough. My poppett valve is located behind a similar plate on the left side. Hope it works out for ya bud.
            In this picture the one I try to remove are the 3 near the yellow oil stick. Are those 3 zinc?
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              I took 6 out on eng block and cleaned them for now. For a motor that I flush ever time and only 4 months old with 110 hours the zinc were bad. They need to be replaced.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Marty D View Post
                In this picture the one I try to remove are the 3 near the yellow oil stick. Are those 3 zinc?
                Yes, those are anodes, as you may have found out by now. But if you're still having any problems getting them out, try lightly tapping on the side of the ear where the bolt goes to turn the holder. Then tap in the other direction. The idea is to try and twist the holder back and forth, then at some point, have enough of a gap to get a tool in to gently pry it out of the head/block. The seal is an o-ring and in inside a bore, so slight marring of the mating surfaces will not cause any leaks.
                You should replace the anodes (those internals are aluminum anodes, by the way) when they are 2/3 gone. But clean off the white aluminum salt deposits fairly regularly, at least once a season.
                Mike
                μολὼν λαβέ

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                • #23
                  Thanks Mike. I will order new ones tomorrow. The last one I don't see but read it's near the oil pan and the lower cover hasto come off. That one I will do out of the water. I'm ordering a poppet valve also. I don't see the one but I'm sure I will find it.

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