Issue with port

[Double Actiom]

New boat to me, but I obviously inherited someone else's problem with these df300s. Engines were fine for about 20hrs after service, then port engine shut off after about 4hrs on it for the day if running and won't start.

Errors I'm getting : tps(2), sps(2), and dbw(64)

The due code has happened a lot, my guess because it won't start and we keep trying. Any suggestions?

[ChrigelKarrer]

If we could know what year are the engines would be helpful!

Go to a experienced Suzuki dealership/mechanic and have the sensors swapped or swap them by your self and see if the problem comes up un the other engine.
If the problem continues on the other engine the sensors/cables/connectors are the problem (corrosion/mice bites/broken cables)
If the problems persist on th same engine with the other sensors ther is either a problem in the harnes to the ECU or the ECu is shot.

Chris

[Double Actiom]

Sorry, they are 2007s

OK, we have come closer to the issue, but not sure of the solution. Any help?

So, we checked almost everything, and then looked at the plugs. Looking at them, they are soaked in gas. Wipe them dry, install them, try to start the engine....and they are soaked again. What would cause this to happen? Is the choke stuck? Over pumping fuel pump? Temp sensor?

I think we have honed in on why it won't start, now I just need to figure out what is throwing so much gas at the plugs. Any ideas?

Problem is there isn't really any one qualified on these that I have found so far in the Chicago area....hence coming here instead.

[Moonlighter]

Have you checked for spark? Doesnt sound like it is getting any.

One thing - these efi motors MUST GET REALLY GOOD SOLID 12v supply.

A weak battery, dirty terminals, corrosion in main battery harness, main switches etc and you will have multiple and weird problems.

So that is an area to check very thoroughly, undo and clean all connections, have batteries load tested and charged up fully.

I am also pretty sure that motors from that year had the white battery sub-wire that goes from each engine to the battery positive or main switch positive. This wire powers the engine ecm - its brain. Make certain this wire is in good condition over its whole length and that its connection is cleaned and tight. poor power to this wire is guaranteed to cause nasty problems.

I really think you have enough problems with these motors/boat that you need to find a good Suzuki shop and get them to go thru the whole setup and sort it out for you. Preferably watch what they do so you get the opportunity to learn what is what and where.

[wilbur1]

I have the same problem being from south of Chicago. I now use Terpstras Marine in Griffith Ind. but not happy with them. I was thinking about trying Island View Marina in Kankakee. I have talked to the mechanic and he seems to know what hes talking about. If you find someone please let me know. I feel your pain.

[Double Actiom]

Have you checked for spark? Doesnt sound like it is getting any.

One thing - these efi motors MUST GET REALLY GOOD SOLID 12v supply.

A weak battery, dirty terminals, corrosion in main battery harness, main switches etc and you will have multiple and weird problems.

So that is an area to check very thoroughly, undo and clean all connections, have batteries load tested and charged up fully.

I am also pretty sure that motors from that year had the white battery sub-wire that goes from each engine to the battery positive or main switch positive. This wire powers the engine ecm - its brain. Make certain this wire is in good condition over its whole length and that its connection is cleaned and tight. poor power to this wire is guaranteed to cause nasty problems.

I really think you have enough problems with these motors/boat that you need to find a good Suzuki shop and get them to go thru the whole setup and sort it out for you. Preferably watch what they do so you get the opportunity to learn what is what and where.

We do have spark. The problem is it seems the plugs are getting doused in gas. Clean them, attempt to start the engine which won't start, then look at the plugs and they are flooded again.

We looked at the vapor seperator, to make sure the needle wasn't stuck, as that would cause it. Not the issue. Next, we are going to look at the Injectors, and the grounding to them.

It's very odd....

Now, I did just recently buy this boat. I had a Survey done on the boat, had a separate survey on the Engines by a Suzuki tech, then right before shipping had the engines gone thru for normal maintenance by a different Suzuki dealership before it went on the trailer and to the great lakes from Florida.

The biggest problem is nobody in the great lakes works on these. None of the shops around have even seen one in person. They are used to smaller ones, and even those guys are 60+ miles away and the 36ft catamaran doesn't have a trailer. So, taking it to a dealer, may sound like a great solution if I were in your state, it's not an option here....I would have done it, and have contacted all of them.

[Double Actiom]

I have the same problem being from south of Chicago. I now use Terpstras Marine in Griffith Ind. but not happy with them. I was thinking about trying Island View Marina in Kankakee. I have talked to the mechanic and he seems to know what hes talking about. If you find someone please let me know. I feel your pain.

Do you have DF300s? I can't find anyone that has even seen one around here.

I do have the Suzuki diagnostic cable for all engines if you ever need it. I'm on the verge of buying the BCM isolation kit also. It's a joke trying to get someone around here with any experience on this Engine. Suzuki had the nerve to say to me today, "Well, didn't you research how many dealers were near you before purchasing?" I said, YES, but I didn't expect half of your list on your site to not have experience with one of your top of the line engines, and the other half to not even be dealers and wondering why they show up on your list

[redlowrey]

The fuel level in the vst would have no bearing on the fuel being injected into the engine. With the key on check the voltage drops on your engine temp sensor, both exhaust temp sensors, and the inlet air temp, at an ambient air temp, of 20c you should see under 3 volts. I am assuming sps means shift position sensor, and dbw is drive by wire if so, check and make sure the throttle opens a small amount when you turn the key on. If you can remove the wiring plugs off each injector and crank it over, if your spark is good enough it will fire up, and make sure the throttle plate will open.

[redlowrey]

I forgot to mention the map sensor, but I think if it failed it would have come up with the other codes.

[redlowrey]

Also with the system logging a throttle position code, if the pcm can't read the changing voltage as the as the throttle is moved forward, it can't change the throttle angle of the throttle plate. I would have thought it would have flashed something on the screen if that were the case. Still make sure the throttle opens.