Suzuki dt225 he!p

[Madness712002]

I have a 97 Suzuki dt225. Was out this past weekend, motor was running great about 10 minutes later if wouldn't go over 3000 rpm. The alarm was going off not as loud as normal,but continuesly going off. N alarm lights on. Shut it down let kids catch mackeral. Started it back up an then it did the same thing as before.

Fuel is new that week,tank emptied end of last year, put stable marine in it with new fuel.

Drained water separator

Checked oil sensor today test out as good.

If anyone has any ideas i would love to hear them

[Solarman]

What do you mean "N" alarm? This Sounds like temp alarm? Do you have a neutral switch on your motor? That's the only "N" i can think of, but not sure if you have that on your motor?

Post back on what you have.

[Madness712002]

That was suppose to say no light alarms..yes I'm not sure about neutral switch

[Solarman]

I would test temp sensors, by the manual. How hot is your motor running after the ten minutes? You might have a partial blockage around some cylinders. Do you have access, to an infrared temp gun ($25-$35, at auto parts store)? Maybe borrow one? Take temp readings around cylinders while motor is running on muffs. See if any areas are hotter than others. How is your tell-tale stream? Low buzzer signal may indicate a low temp overheating, not hot enough to turn the overheat warning on.

Post back on what you find out.

[Madness712002]

I got a heat gun, I will run it tomorrow an find it out.

[Madness712002]

Ok I ran it today at idle for 40 mins20 with hood on 20 with it off. Alarm never came on and did it go into limp mode. I did notice starboard side head was running hotter then port. Starboard is 150-160 the port was like 110-115. I had just checked the thermostat s last week they opened and closed..I didn't use hot water i used a lighter. I just saw in book about the little hole i didn't align it with plugs.

[Madness712002]

Update pulled thermostat out heated water in glass they are opening an closing ok

[Solarman]

It is still possible that you might have corrosion building up around water pas-sages in/around cylinders, which means those areas won't cool quickly enough because water isn't flowing around them.

To flush motor:
You need to find a large container for lower unit to fit into, or build a box the foot (lower unit) of your motor will fit into, then line the insides with a large plastic trash bag (or 2 bags). Must be deep enough for water pump to be 4"-6" below water level. Once container/ box is ready fill with water and 3-5 gals of vinegar, always keep water solution above water pump level while running motor at idle, and neutral only (you can raise idle a few hundred rpms, but only in neutral), divert tell-tale stream back into box/container to keep same solution going through motor continuously. When solution gets too hot, shut motor off and let solution cool for a few hours. Then restart the flush process.
Run the motor for about 2-hrs total time flushing, then cooling, adding make-up water/solution to keep level above water pump.

During the flushing, use your temp gun to watch the hotter areas of your motor. As the corrosion breaks up, temps will start cooling down to same temps all around motor (same as solution temp).

Your motor will stop going into limp mode after blockage clears up.

Once through flushing, rinse motor thoroughly with normal flush attachment and hose.

Take boat on test run to make sure all is good.

Good luck, post back if other problems, and let us know how it is.