Suzuki motors like to run deep?

[Marty D]

Hi to all, I'm new to Suzuki. I have a 2320 Parker with full trans. ( Armstrong bracket) it's a 2005 Parker deep V. That was Parkers first year. The 2006 they moved the 150 gas tank up a foot or two. Boat is ass heavy. Boat came with Yamaha 200 HPDI and over the 10 years I raised the motor 3 holes up. I just repowered with the Suzuki 250 -4 stroke 2015. They mounted the motor all the way down. He we go again moving the motor. But !!!! When I ran her, the RPM are at 5800 at 43 MPH. That is with the motor trimmed. Only trimmed for 1 sec holding the trim button. ( They didn't install a trim gauge) I looked to see where my motor Finns are at WOT and you can see them. Also when running at 30 to 40 mph I can hear the prop when going over a small wave and more so when in the ocean. Speeds under 30 mph the back end of this Parker is dragging. I read forum, I made calls to Suzuki dealers and spoke to mech. I also called Ken at prop goods. They all said Suzuki motors like to run deep. I didn't raise the motor and went with a 4 blade prop. The new LFS4. Ken said drop the pitch to 19. I had the 3x16x20. Now 4x16x19 I have to say Ken nailed it. !!! No more ass dragging!!! I'm at 5900 rpm at 42 mph. I'm up on plane at 4K at 30 mph. With the 3 blade I was 4200 rpm at 25 mph. I'm happy. But !!! The motor is still all the way down. Should I leave it? Should I try moving it?

[LPowers]

are you getting rid of 20 pitch by chance?

[2014DF25ARS]

I'll be interested in hearing what others have to say about "Suzuki motors like to run deep". I've never heard that before, and I can't imagine why it would be true. I suppose you could argue that ALL MOTORS LIKE TO RUN DEEP. From the motor's perspective, deeper ensures it's never starved for cooling water. But in general it's not the motor's perspective you care about - it's the pilot's perspective! The pilot/owner is concerned about the overall boat performance.

I trust you've read the sticky thread here on adjusting motor height & prop pitch.

I will only relay here my own experience: I raised my little 25 HP Zuke about 1-1/4 inches on the transom of my 14 ft tin boat, and I gained about 150 RPM and 1-2 MPH top speed. Enough to switch to another prop. Lesson I learned is that you always want to get your motor height correct BEFORE you start buying props, because the motor height will effect the prop you choose.

Actually, it sounds like you may be right where you want to be: I assume your rev limit is 6200 or 6400 RPM, correct? If you're now running 5900 WOT and you raise the motor a little, you could gain about 200 RPM and put you right below the rev limit - which is ideal IMHO. You don't want to HIT the rev limit, because your motor runs like poo at the limit.

[Marty D]

I been with Classic Parker for 10 years. Same name Marty D. When I found this forum, I was glad I did. I was hoping I was right about not raising my motor. On CP they know what they are talking about. I'm sure at this forum also. They all said raise motor before I prop it. As a mech for 45 years. Just the sound of this 250 Suzuki, I think I'm in the sweet spot. I will raise it if needed. I'm afraid the motor going to prop out. You never heard, Suzuki likes to run deep? I'm shocked, because every Suzuki mech. Said that to me. That pict is with factory prop at 38 mph. As you can see the fins are under water. But. If I was to trim the motor just for a sec, the prop started to ( over prop) that tells me that Suzuki likes to run deep. I went with a 4 blade and didn't raise motor. I like to hear what other guys have to say. I will now do the gas miles to see if it's better. I'm happy with the numbers. The only reason to raise it would be gas miles. You are right. Raising motor will be better. I have done it with my 200 Yamaha. Every hole I went up, it just keep getting better!!! Thanks Marty D

[Harper]

I can't imagine that Suzukis like to run any deeper than any other outboard. I couldn't get mine high enough until I installed a hydraulic jack plate. Maybe that theory floats around because Suzukis tend to be a bit more "torquey" than most other outboards, so they are able to handle being deeper better than others would. Mine ran just fine deep, but my top end and fuel usage have improved with the anti-ventilation plate riding just on top of the water. Yes, I do hear considerably more prop noise, but rarely does it ventilate. In rougher water, with the boat pitching a lot, I have to lower it a little.

You mention with little trim, it starts to "prop out." I am able now, with the plate riding on top of the water, to run with very little trim out. The entire hull rides higher on the water, since there is no down-thrust at the stern due to engine tilt. I think this is the biggest contributing factor in my performance increases. There's not only less drag from the motor itself, there is less drag along the entire hull of the boat. That said, different boats, different hulls are going to perform differently.

[Moonlighter]

You hear this "run them deep" on THT quite often.

But here in Aus, we set them up the same as any motor, as per the sticky thread that I put up.

One of the issues is that all motors vary a bit regarding shaft length - people think that a 25" shaft is 25" on all motors, but not true! If you look carefully at the specs they are all slightly different! So if you set the new Suzuki at the same hole as the Yammy it replaced, it is not actually at the same height.

Second thing is props. I think a lot of people try to use the same size props on their Zukes as they had on their Yammy's etc, and it doesnt work, because the Zukes have a different final drive ratio due to the offset drive shaft, and the need to run a larger dia prop. And we all know that prop diameter is a big factor in props losing grip - sometimes just 1/4" extra dia eliminates almost all tendency to blow out.

And, after talking to my local Zuki dealer mate many times about this, the Suzuki props do seem to be the best choice on our motors in the majority of cases. But people have their favourite brands and want to use them.....

So bottom line: the principles behind setting Suzuki engine height are the same as for any other motor: set them as high as you can, without getting excessive prop ventilation for the type of boating an your driving style. Generally with the right prop, that anti/vent plate will be right there skimming the surface, or within 1/2" either way, down or up.

[Marty D]

Moonlighter, I'm going to run boat tomorrow to see where the Finn is at. I will take pictures. Then go from there. I was hoping to get a 2320 Parker guy with a 250 Suzuki to see how he is running. Most Parker owners are running Yamaha. That will change.

[Moonlighter]

Ok Marty, good plan.

It really can be a trial and error situation. Not uncommon to lift it up and then have to put it back down.

Get it up to a nice fast cruise speed, trim out to the optimum position, then have a look to see if you can see the cav plate. If you are game take a video on your mobile phone camera, just dont drop it overboard!

I helped a mate a few years ago trial props and he found that with one particular 4 blade prop he got so much stern lift, he would have had to drop the motor down one, maybe 2 holes.

[Marty D]

are you getting rid of 20 pitch by chance?

No, I will keep it.

[WEDOCQ]

@5900 RPM you are still 200 RPM below the max RPM for that motor. The way I have learned, when the motor is set up correctly and properly propped, it should hit max rpm with a light load. Moving the motor up one notch could possibly obtain that extra 200 rpm.

I have an ass heavy Arima Sea Ranger, and I know it felt like it was "dragging" at lower speeds as well when I had the motor all the way down on the bottom holes. I went up 2 holes, and the motor cavitated. So I went down to the hole in between and it was just right!

Listen to the experts, they will get you real close. From there it's all trial and error until you get it right!

-Shawn

[Marty D]

[QUOTE=WEDOCQ;22605]@5900 RPM you are still 200 RPM below the max RPM for that motor. The way I have learned, when the motor is set up correctly and properly propped, it should hit max rpm with a light load. Moving the motor up one notch could possibly obtain that extra 200 rpm.

I have an ass heavy Arima Sea Ranger, and I know it felt like it was "dragging" at lower speeds as well when I had the motor all the way down on the bottom holes. I went up 2 holes, and the motor cavitated. So I went down to the hole in between and it was just right!

Listen to the experts, they will get you real close. From there it's all trial and error until you get it right!

I will move it up. The next two holes are very close to each other. Then the 3 hole is about a1inch away. I'm thinking to go up two more holes. When you move your motor was the two holes close together? Thanks. Marty D