grrrrrrrr......dt9.9 wont start

[weekendwarrior21]

My old dt9.9c won't start?!?! I have plenty of dark at plugs but it won't turn over. I notice the hose connector leaks fuel when I pump the bulb very hard. Is it possible that air Is getting in the fuel line preventing it from starting?? It has sat for a few years so I think the next step would be to take out the carb and check for clogged fuel bowl, but I have no idea how to remove it without taking the power head off. Any thoughts /suggestions?? It would be most appreciated!!!

[Harper]

Don't know a thing about your particular motor, but I will tell you that you certainly better be cleaning the fuel system after sitting for so long, and especially fix ANY fuel leaks before you try to crank it again. Solarman is our 2 stroke go-to guy, so he might be able to give you some particulars on how to go about cleaning it up.

[weekendwarrior21]

Thank you Mike!

I'm thinking it may also be an ignition timing thing. I got the motor back from the mechanic in pieces and may have installed the recoil over the flywheel incorrectly.

[Solarman]

Returned to you in pieces?

Have you already put motor back together? Do you have spark at the plugs? Have you cleaned the carb(s) out completely, including soaking in solution, then using compressed air blowing every fuel and air pas-sage thoroughly?

Why do you think recoil starter is not right?

Do you have the Suzuki service manual for your motor?

Give us a little more on where you're at.

Post back when able. Good luck.

[weekendwarrior21]

Thanks for the reply solarman. This is where I'm at:
-took motor to mechanic who took the head off to look at the seized pistons
-he told me it wasn't worth fixing, then tried to sell me a new used motor from him
-I took the motor back and tried to unseize the pistons
-i removed the recoil starter to access the flywheel while trying to unseize it
-i got the pistons to move
-i then ordered a new head gasket and service manual through Browns point
-put head gasket on
-checked spark at plug (looked good)
-after trying to start it to no avail, I removed plugs and noticed the absence of gas smell on plugs
-tonight I removed the carb, saw a lot of vanishing and buildup in nozzles and bowl
-i cleaned all components thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed air
-reassembled, reinstalled and tried to start
-sounded like it wanted to start....it sputtered a few times but still wouldn't start
-i noticed gas leaking through the filters on the side of the carb
-i either didn't tighten the screws enough or I damaged the carb seals...
-i have to re-remove the carb and take another look at it
-i'll probably get new seals and fuel filter while I have it out
-i'll have to get a compression tester as well to see what I get at each cylinder

Would.low compression prevent it from.starting?
The service manual doesn't say how to remove the various motor components.

[Solarman]

Low compression can be a problem, but it may still start, just not run well, or not have much torque.

Once you're sure you have the carb good, make sure the low speed air mixture screw is set by the manual. If you have good spark, good clean carb with good fuel, and set right, and enough compression, it should start.

The timing is controlled by magneto and flywheel, I'm not sure what year your motor is, I'll look back at your posts to see if mentioned. Then I can look up what parts your motor has, might give me a better idea with what you have.

Ok, 1988, dt9.9. Will look it up.

Post back what's going on when you can.

[Solarman]

If compression is not strong enough in each cylinder to support combustion, it may not run.

Forgot to mention this fact.

Good luck.

[weekendwarrior21]

Hello again......the good news is that when i took the carb out again I noticed that I had forgotten to tighten the fuel pump screws....reinstalled and fuel leak is gone...the bad news is that I think compression is no where near where it needs to be....does anyone know what the compression is supposed to be on a 1988 dt9.9c?

[Solarman]

I don't know and usually they don't mention in the manual what compression should be, just that more than 10% difference in multiple cylinders is not good.

When you pull the cord do you feel compression building then passing till the next time flywheel goes around? If very smooth, don't feel much compression, tilt motor way up. Remove plug(s) put a good tablespoon of 2 stroke oil in cylinder(s), and with plug(s) out rotate flywheel with cord a couple times (while still tilted), put plug(s) back in, and put back in water tub, then try to start, keep running if it starts for 5-15 mins if possible.

What are you reading from your compression tests?

Post back when able.

[weekendwarrior21]

Thanks for the reply solarman!

I read 48psi on the top cylinder and 40psi on the bottom one.

Is there an easy way to determine if compress loss is a head gasket leak issue or if it's the piston rings that may be the issue?

[Solarman]

Probably rings are issue, may be sticking in, from seizing. Trying what I said, oil in cylinders may help get started, and may loosen rings?

Post back after trying.

[weekendwarrior21]

Sigh.......this motor is determined not to start...haha

I took your advice solarman, but it still didn't start.

On compression testing, pressure builds from 30psi on first pull to 45 on the third pull, but doesn't go much higher than that. I thought maybe the kill switch was faulty, but I get no spark when it's disconnected and spark when it is. Any other thoughts or suggestions??!?

[Solarman]

Yes, keep motor tilted up when you get tired of pulling. If rings are stuck, they may loosen.

It won't hurt the motor now to use a small shot of starting fluid, occasionally.

And, as you keep trying to pull it, add a little oil in worst cylinder every so often, you might suddenly have it start, and if you can keep running it may get better compression as it continues to run.

If you have spark, and getting fuel to plugs, then compression is the key that's missing. Make sure you have fire at both plugs.

Good luck. Post back as able.

[weekendwarrior21]

Hello again solarman......so after taking some time away from my motor, I'm back at it again. I've still had no luck starting it. I left it sitting tilted up with some good 2stroke oil in the cylinder heads but still no dice. I'm thinking I may have to disassemble and go for a full teardown....piston, rings, cylinder rehone....reed switch replacement....is there any definitive way to confirm if it's low compression that's the issue? I'd hate to rebuild all that and still not have it start for me....plus I've never torn apart a motor like that and the task seems a bit daunting....

[Solarman]

Compression test is best way to determine that. But, if it sat-up long enough to damage rings and cylinder walls, then you probably also have damaged crank bearings. So, be careful what you're getting into dollar wise. Because you don't want to get into honing or boring cylinders, if the crankshaft won't last more than 20-40 hours. Dollar wise that wouldn't be cost effective.

Check compression again, see if any changes? Play with that a couple more weeks, then maybe consider parting it out on ebay.

Good luck.