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2006 DF200Z clunking and dies had a IAC and CKP code.

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  • 2006 DF200Z clunking and dies had a IAC and CKP code.

    OK, get ready for a long story with plenty of details to sort through. I'm perplexed. Down in Marathon (Key Colony) for mini lobster season and this happens, motor wont start, turns over but wont start, then throws the good ole 3-2 IAC code, luckily, I had a spare still in unopened box from previous failure a few years ago in my center console. switched it out, started immediately and alert went away. it idled a little high around 900rpm but I chalked that up to the $34 Chinese IAC and thought i'd just replace it once back from vacation. So, went out for a full day of fishing, trolling etc. Problem solved...or so I thought...Next day, fires up on first try still idling a little high, 800 or so rpms but, otherwise seems fine. Runs good all day through all speeds and rpms until we are headed in. @3600-3800 rpm it decides to make a loud clank or backfire and shuts off. kind of like we hit something. Check the prop and foot and no damage so lower it and try to restart, no love. Starter tries to engage but wont turn over, Limp back in on my Starboard engine and start to troubleshoot. No codes, change out water fuel separator no water, loosen gas cap, clean out the Fuel vapor separator and the little high pressure fuel pump screen. Tested high pressure fuel filter and cleaner out the low pressure fuel filter.
    Very little if any junk or water beads found. put everything back together and started it up, it ran for a little bit then cut out. having this weird wobbling clunking sound. took both batteries for testing just incase, found out one was from 2011-Duralast , and the other was from the year I bought it in 2013- Napa Starting 575CCA. One from 2011 was not good under load so, replaced both with 850 CCA marine starting batteries from NAPA. (its what was the closest parts store). So, the engine starts up now, and idles but sounds a little hollow sounding. Decide it idles for 30 minutes so it should be good right? we'll try tomorrow morning to take it out for the second day of Lobstering. Starts up next morning no problem, no codes, idles out to our resume safe speed area and once it hit 1500 rpm, it stutters and shuts down with that wobbling clunking sound again. Limp back to the dock for a second time. this time, I notice a vapor hiss coming from one butterfly but not another. Decide to do the ole Sea Foam challenge. Get a bunch of white smoke and putters but....able to keep it going. Able to keep it running now so Try another above idle test, able to get the engine to 4000 RPM all the time the wobbling shuttering clunking sound it intermittent until a louder clunking noise shuts the engine down for a final time. finally a new code is elicited, its a CKP sensor (4-2) , My trusty Google searching wife thinks its a Neutral Position sensor but I have no reason to believe or doubt her. Send the boys to go get one from the closest Suzuki parts dealer and also a CKP sensor just in case. Cant get to the neutral sensor while the boat is in the water. And the parts dealer doesn't have the CKP sensor nor believes it could be one. So why get the 4-2 code???? so, finally back at home port on dry land, I have checked the oil, its due for change but no metal inside, check the foot, its in need of a change, have some milky sheen to it, but no metal flakes either. Change the spark plugs, a little carbon and fuel smelling but I've seen worse. The gap was like .045-.048" on all of them so The new ones are now within specs at .028-.031". Change out the neutral sensor. engine makes some loud clunking noise but fires up with A little opening of the butterfly. now that it is out of the water I can hear what sounds like clunking/rattling around the middle of the motor (shaft housing to the lower unit gears when it is idling. Can put it in forward and neutral and reverse to neutral. Still idling a little high so it grinds as I put it into forward or reverse but no grinds when going into neutral. btw, No CKP 4-2 code any longer. No IAC code but still going to change it out with an OEM IAC. Thoughts??? What could be wobbling clunking and killing the engine at load? Sound like it is wobbling, clunking, hollow-ish? drive shaft? gears? why would it throw a 4-2 Code? im puzzled.

    Engine seems to be running smooth, I have yet to check the timing. Going to do my own scheduled maintenance and thought about buying the SDS software to do some more troubleshooting I think it could also be a Shift switch sensor but, if that doesn't pan out, I guess it will be going to the certified Suzuki repair guys if no one has any thoughts..

    I have videos of the 400 RPM run and the most recent idles at home I can attach once I figure out if I can add them.
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