Poor Starting

[Weirdfish]

Hi,

Just wondered if anyone has experienced poor starting performance from your DF200-250 blocks? I have only recently bought mine and it starts terrible, often needing lots of neutral revs and then cutting out when bringing the gear back to neutral... when running it is perfect and never cuts out at idle after been in gear etc...

Love boats!

[Moonlighter]

They usually, and should if in good condition with no problems, start almost instantly and with absolutely no neutral throttle. The fact that yours doesnt, says that something isnt right.

From the small amount of info you've provided - where its hard to start and stalls out when revs lowered back to idle, it could be a faulty IAC (idle air control) valve. These can be a bit problematic, but you can:

(A) try removing then cleaning them out
(B) replacing them

Both a quite easy to do. If you do an "advanced search" on this forum for IAC valve replacement you will find plenty of info on the issue and how to remove/clean/replace the IAC valve.

[Weirdfish]

Thanks once again for your help... will have a look :-)

[Weirdfish]

I went to the boat today and took the cowl off and tried starting her and was surprised how loud the fuel pump (I am assuming that is what it is was) was when turning the ignition key half on.... If i turn the key, wait for the pump to stop pumping then turn full on then the starting was much better... not sure if that says anything to you guys?!

[artdf175]

What you are hearing is the high pressure fuel pump charging the system
I always wait until it stops running before hitting the starter.
That way the injectors should be fully pressurized and ready to function properly.
If you are still having problems, you should read up on the IAC valve.
Art..

[Moonlighter]

I guess that one other thing we are assuming is that you are aware that you need to turn the engine key to the point where it gives off a long beep, wait for the beep to finish, then start the engine?

If you try to start too quickly before the beep has finished, it doesnt like it. As Art said, the delay while the beep happens and even a few moments longervthan that, gives the electronics time to get themselves sorted, and for the fuel pressure to get up to the required level.

Normally if you start this way, there is absolutely no need to touch the neutral throttle lever. I cant remember ever touching mine when starting my engine, whether hot or cold. So your default mode should be to leave it alone when starting.

I would however suggest you have a look at fuel lines from the tank to the engine, and check the primer bulb to make certain they are all in good condition, as one possibility is that the valve in the primer bulb is allowing fuel to run back to the tank so that the fuel pump has to work hard to prime the system every time.

You could also consider the anti-syphon valve on the fuel tank outlet (if fitted - it is fitted to most US built boats from what I can gather).

These are problematic little suckers, and any obstruction or failure in that valve can restrict fuel dlow to the engine, particularly at low engine speeds (idle speed). Personally, i would remove that valve entirely and simply replace it with a barb fitting on the tank. Its not required on outboard powered boats and is simply, IMO, just another potential source of fuel related problems.

[Weirdfish]

Thanks for the advice... I have been boating for years with a variety of engines but had not head of the wait till the beep stops..guess it was probably in a manual but not buying the set-up from new so didn't have a manual to read... and not sure I would have done anyway!

Am going to investigate the IAC Valve as waiting till the beep stops is certainly better but still not great starter and the engine sounds like it surges a little after starting and before often dying a couple of times yesterday just after a cold start...

Also going to post details of an error message my fuel flow is now giving me... having fun with this engine :-(!!

[Weirdfish]

Continued to use the boat for the rest of the season and now looking into this properly, the issue appears to be mainly that the engine is very poor starting when warm and often need 3 or 4 attempts to start

I no longer adjust the revs when starting and that way it doesnt cut out when i take the revs off.. Think the IAC valve is the first point of call as suggested unless anyone has any other bright ideas to try...

Once running the engine is perfect