DT225 No Spark

[turbojoe78]

Well, the serial number you gave earlier says it is a 1986, dt150, and I'm not too sure, but if it is a CDI for a 98, don't think I'd use it, if it is an 86.

Good luck.

Solarman, I'm not sure who you were responding to here. I think I'm the one who replaced his CDI unit at the advice of the shop who trouble shot it. I never gave a serial number for my motor but have confirmed years ago that it's a 98. I believe the shop trouble shot it as an 86 and I think that's where the problem lies. My motor is a 98 with a now brand new 98 CDI unit installed. I'm getting readings on the condenser charge coils of: G - B/R = 86.5 and W/R - W/B = 0. The readings are with my DVM set at it's lowest setting for ohm's which is 200.

Any thoughts? Replace the stator?

Joe

[Solarman]

Guess i responded to racso65, he's the one that posted on your thread, my mistake.

If getting nothing on one condenser charge coil, that sounds like a bad connection, or wire in that coil is broken. If that is your "low" charge coil, it will affect starting and firing up to about 3k rpms. If it is the "high" charge coil, it will affect firing above about 3k rpms.

I'll go back through your post on your motor.
I'll post back later. I would also suggest going back to the old CDI, as apparently, it was not your problem.

[Solarman]

Joe, your manual should tell you what both your condenser charge coils should ohm out at. If you are getting no reading on one coil use a pin into the wire to make sure the connector is not the problem (I have had a couple bad plug connectors, not making contact with the wire, even though they looked like new?). Try different ohm scales if still nothing. If still no reading, you're problem may be the stator/magneto.

If you pull your flywheel, be very careful with the puller bolts, only run them in as far as the threads in the flywheel, too deep and they will damage the stator coils. Once you remove the flywheel, inspect the magnets as well, broken, or loose magnets can eat/destroy your stator/magneto (as mine did).

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

[Solarman]

Once you pull the stator out, you can re-test each of the condenser charge coils closer to the coils with a pin through the insulation again, just in case the wire itself is damaged, or bad. The wire can be spliced if bad (with a little wire knowledge)?

Again good luck.

[turbojoe78]

Re: your comment about changing the setting on the meter where I got no reading, I actually did that, I changed the setting from 200, to 2K and when I did I got a reading of .599, when I changed it to 20K I got 0.60, at 200K I got 00.6, the manual says on those wires (W/R - W/B) I should have a reading of 385 - 575.

I also have a Seloc repair manual and it says "On the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the charge coil wires for the low speed (325-575 ohm's) and high speed (50-100 ohm's)". So, it looks like it's the low speed coil I'm getting the bad reading on. I'll do as you said and test the wire after the connector, if all is the same, I'll pull the flywheel and test further.

Solarman, thanks for your help.

[Solarman]

In the Suzuki manual look at the wiring diagram of the magneto. It shows you what wires go to which coils, it should also tell you which is low and high.

Yes, changing the ohm setting, should only change the # of decimal places of the number, at 2k you have 3 decimal places, at 20k only 2 decimal places, so it went from .599 rounded up to 0.60, you should be on the 200 ohm scale for the 50 - 100 ohms, then 2k scale for up to 2000 ohms (325 - 575 ohms is above the 200 ohm scale).

Anyway yes, test the wires with a pin/needle just behind the plug connector and if still reading same you'll have to pull the flywheel, and yes, still test wires next/as close to each coil as able. Would be much cheaper to replace the wires rather than the entire magneto.

If you have to get another magneto look up the actual part number for your motor (also click on the part number, that magneto may have been used on multiple motors, some newer?), and Google that number with the name in the parts book. Then make sure to compare yours in hand with pics of one you're buying, as well as plug connectors and wire colors. If buying used parts like this, make sure they guarantee that it ohms out good (to what numbers)?

Good luck, post back on what you find.

[turbojoe78]

Update, I tested the wires after the connector and got the same readings so I went to eBay and was looking for used ones and wife said to buy a new one. Said she didn't want to get stuck 20 miles off shore due to cheaping out. Found a new one and after shipping and taxes it was just under $500. I'm working on my 3rd 16 hour shift in a row so I haven't had a chance to do anything other than make a flywheel puller and holder. Stator came in the mail yesterday and I work 8 hours tomorrow and then I can get back at it. One question, does it matter which wires plug inti which wires for the battery charging coils other than yellow to yellow?

[Solarman]

If you got the same stator/magneto that is made for your motor, then everything should just plug together wire color, to same wire color. If any questions, look at the wire diagram in your Suzuki manual, then follow each wire to where it goes to.

You can ohm the new magneto wires, for a test, to see if readings are different from your old magneto?

Good luck, post back on what you find.

[turbojoe78]

Got home a 3pm today, removed the flywheel. *** was that thing on good, probably the first time it had been removed since it had been installed, jumped right off the motor and landed on the ground behind the boat. I'll test the new stator just to compare the reading tomorrow and if all is well I'll install it and see what happens. Wish me luck. I'll check back in tomorrow hopefully.

[Solarman]

Joe, you should always leave the flywheel nut on (loose but level/flush with the shaft - both, to prevent mushrooming the shaft/ helps straightening threads, and from jumping off - damaging Itself, or something else) anytime using a puller. It will still pop, and loosen quickly, but much safer.

Good luck, post back and let us know.

[turbojoe78]

I got the new stator installed and ohm'ed out the charge coils, I got a reading of 71.2 on the high speed coil, meter set at 200, and no reading on the low speed coil, same meter setting. I changed the setting on the meter to 2K and got a reading of .418 on the low speed coil. I had been getting a reading of .599 on the old stator. I cleaned all the faces of the pulse and counter coils, cleaned the inside of the flywheel (it had quite a bit of what looked like black grease on it) and cleaned the magnet surfaces on the outside of the flywheel. Hooked up the hose and after a little turning over (haden't run for more than 2 months with many tries with no spark) it started and ran at just under 2K rpm's for the first minute or so then settled down to just under 1K rpm's with some surging. I let it idle like that for a couple minutes and the longer it ran the more the surging went away. By the time I shut it off it was running at about 1050 rpm's and was smooth as I had ever seen it idle, no surging at all.

The only possible problem I see now is my water pressure seems very low. I have a water pressure gauge and it was showing just over 1 psi at idle. I put a new water pump kit in it this spring and it only had one trip out on it and the pressure was never below 3 psi. Every time I did testing on it where I was turning it over a lot, I had the hose on it so I wouldn't burn out the impeller. I know the shop must have been turning it over quite a lot having done a compression test (120 psi cold across all 6 cyl) and the peak voltage testing. I'm wondering if they damaged the impeller. I'll report back after I get it out in the water and see how it goes. Joe C

[turbojoe78]

All's good in the boat universe today ... for me! Small craft warnings and the wind was blowing like crazy but I got it on plane for a short time. Everything went great! Water pressure went no lower than 2.5 psi when idling and was over 15 psi at 4K rpm's.
I couldn't get it to WOT due to the ocean conditions, but it got up on plane as good or better than it ever has.

Solarman, I'd like to thank you for all your help and guidance and if your ever in the south shore area of Mass, I'd like to buy you a beer!

[Solarman]

Glad to hear, make sure oil is getting throughout all cylinders, even if you have to pre-mix a tank of fuel with oil, until sure the injection system is working well.

Good luck, happy boating.