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2002 DF60 - Fuel Spilling from Evaporation Hose???

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  • 2002 DF60 - Fuel Spilling from Evaporation Hose???

    Hello everyone! First post here. I've had a new issue pop up recently. I really need some advice.

    While working on other issues, I noticed fuel spilling from the evaporation hose on the lower starboard side panel. After review other posts, I actually removed the entire intake manifold in order to inspect the needle and float on the VST and actually clean out the VST itself for the first time. I thought maybe the needle was stuck in the open position and too much fuel was entering the VST. Upon inspection there was no issue that I could see with the float needle assembly and the VST was super clean inside! (thank you Seafoam!) Nothing really needed. I put Humpty Dumpty back together again. Cranked her up and no problems, no spills. Two hours later with the gas lines hooked up I came back outside and could see evidence of spillage again on the right side lower unit! The engine was not even on! It was just sitting there outside.

    To note. I recently changed to an Attwood portable 12 gallon tank. This is a closed system, with no vent relief (Newer EPA Standards). So the tank would expand and really never contract. My theory was this pressure was forcing more gas than the engine wanted into the VST to the point where it would back up the vent tubing into the Evap Hose and out. After some research, Attwood actually makes a Fuel Demand Valve which actually helps to relieve the pressure. So, last week I put this on between the tank connection and the bulb.

    I should note that I recently change the following, due to small black rubber debris/particle and clogging injectors. All high pressure fuel tubing, some low pressure fuel tubing, low pressure filter, high pressure filter, new fuel/water separator on transom, new fuel lines from separator on transom to cowling with new clip. I've dropped the injector rail and have been inspecting the fuel delivery chain for some time. The engine is running great right now. I do have a Check Engine Light on currently. 3 then 1. IAC Valve. I have cleaned the throttle body, and the IAC Valve, adjusted the bypass idle screw and cleaned the IAC solenoid. The light disappeared, and the engine has been idling really great! But the light/alarm came back on when I put my finger on the end of the Evap Hose and it stalled out, as it should have.

    I wasn't too concerned. I believe the engine light/IAC code along with the fuel Evap Hose spillage are two separate things...

    Went fishing this weekend in Grand Isle, LA. Caught some specs. Engine ran great, no fuel delivery issues at all. But when I got it back to the house and was flushing it... THERE IT WAS, more fuel spilling out the Evap Hose. I'm stumped. I really am. I do not get it. Any thoughts? The engine ran all weekend with the check engine light on. (might just need to adjust the bypass screw again) I'm more concerned about the fuel spillage.

    HELP. PLEASE. Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Did you pull the hose off the top of the vst and see the fuel actually coming out of the vst. Remember when you adjust the iac, you want the engine warm and screw the iac screw out till over one thousand rpm, then the horn will sound then the ecu will hold the iac valve at 22% duty cycle, then screw back in till around 650 rpm. Lift the warm up lever and bring the revs back up and the ecu will turn the horn off. I thought the hose off the vst went to the silencer on the 60 hp not into the inlet manifold.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the input on the IAC bypass screw operation. I do need to perform that again to clear the light issue. I'm not sure I was doing this properly the first time. Stupid question: What is the warm up lever?

      Re: the hose, I pulled it off when cleaning the VST, but did not actually see fuel spouting out of the top during operation. But, that is the only place it can be coming from. The hose from the VST goes to the intake silencer cover, but also has a "t" connection and splits off and is routed between the crankcase and flywheel and runs all the way down the starboard side through an air filter to the lower starboard side panel.

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      • #4
        Check this out.

        Boating groups raise concerns about new outboard engine fuel tanks

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        • #5
          redlowrey:

          I have no Warm Up Lever on my remote control unit.

          "Lift the warm up lever and bring the revs back up and the ecu will turn the horn off."

          When you get to this point, what do you do exactly? By bringing the revs back up are you putting in gear to do this? Or rev'ing it back up with your warm up lever? I would I do that with no Warm Up Lever?

          Thanks in advance!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mcaillouet View Post
            redlowrey:

            I have no Warm Up Lever on my remote control unit.

            "Lift the warm up lever and bring the revs back up and the ecu will turn the horn off."

            When you get to this point, what do you do exactly? By bringing the revs back up are you putting in gear to do this? Or rev'ing it back up with your warm up lever? I would I do that with no Warm Up Lever?

            Thanks in advance!
            '' When you do the adjustment the throttle has to be in the closed position, the only way the ecu knows that the throttle is closed is from the closed throttle position sensor, the signal voltage will go from five volts to zero when the throttle is closed. If you have no warm up leaver just put it in gear and open the throttle and the switch voltage will go back to five volts and the horn will stop, Or it will automatically cancel after five minutes. The reason I asked if you seen fuel coming out of the top of the vst is, there is a drain line at the back with a hose on it the fuel might have been coming from there.

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            • #7
              Thanks so much!

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