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Have a 2008 DF225 4 stroke 22501F-880021 that only starts after many cranks or reluctantly with some ether. Once running it has great power all day and even idles perfect. Shut if off and it takes much cranking. Cleaned filters checked connections and examined fuel for debris or water. Any suggestion could it be a fuel pump trying to understand how when it runs fine after start. Does the low pressure pump start the engine and then the high pressure happen to take over? Is their a wire or initial start circuit I should look and check ? Any ideas or suggestions from past experience would be kindly appreciated.
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Did you inspect the high pressure pump? This pump also has a filter that should be inspected.
when you first turn the ignition key on you should hear this pump run for several seconds as it pressurizes the fuel rail. you want to make sure you allow this sequence to finish before hitting the starter
but do drain and check the high pressure reservoir
the service manual tells you exactly how to do this
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There could be numerous reasons why the engine won't start on crank, one could be the iac valve not bypassing enough air, temp sensor signal voltage could be high, map sensor signal voltage too high because of poor manifold vacuum on crank and so on I could keep going. Seeing that it runs well when you get it going suggests that there is not much wrong. Do this simple test first, there is a switch on the console that allows you to open the throttle mechanically, open it a small amount then crank the engine over and see if it starts easy or it is still no good, that way I will know which direction to take.Originally posted by Briangbt View Post
You would think if it was a fuel pump problem it would start and then stop because when you turn the engine off there would still be fuel in the vst.
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The fuel pump does cycle for about 6 seconds and I checked the pressure on the small pump on the front of the engine with a gauge and it has 8-10lbs of pressure. This is the pump that is exposed and connected to the plastic check valve that you can see from inside the boat.The filter inside the VST tank is clean. Replaced needle and float.
When I manually open the throttle a bit and crank the engine it still does not start. If I crank and keep the bulb very hard. Turn off and back on to start many times. Note though it does stay quite hard and I did replace the bulb and do think it is good. I have to crank it a dozen times or so to get it to start. Once running it will run all day, idle, accelerate, plane and run just perfect. If I shut it off I have to start all over and fear it may not start again. Had a dealer evaluate it and it shows no codes. Suggested we replace the complete wiring harness and the computer and see if that helps. Expensive test and I am concerned it may not still fix the problem. This is a 2008 engine however it has less than 300 hours. I did notice it does not hav a sensor or wires on the bottom of the engine spin off fuel filter or a place for them like it shows in the manual.Totally stumped! Any Suggestions please will be appreciated. Thanks for the help and replies.Comment
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Only a wanker or someone that has no idea would tell you to replace the wiring harness or computer, the engine eventually starts. You have a simple problem the question is where, air, spark or fuel.Originally posted by Briangbt View Post
You said in your post, when it starts the engine runs great, I am going to take a punt and say too much fuel not enough air. As I said in my first post when you turn the engine off there will be half a litre of fuel sitting in bottom of the vst, so when you crank the engine it should start and run on that fuel on its own for a few minutes even if the pump didn't work.
Mate the fuel pressure reg could be stuck and the pressure being high the engine is injecting too much, or the pressure reg is bypassing and not holding pressure and when you turn the key off it drops to zero and the key has to be cycled to get the pressure back up, your iac valve might not be bypassing enough air on crank, battery voltage might be to low when cranking and your coils are not getting enough saturation time on the primary's and when the plugs start getting wet the secondary voltage required to jump the plug gap is less, who knows, if it was in my workshop I would have it diagnosed within one hour.
Do this simple test, crank the engine over for at least fifteen seconds then turn the key off and remove the plugs and come back on the forum stating whether they are wet or dry.
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