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  • Blank SMISgauges

    Hi all
    I have a 2014 DF300AP It is running great however the SMIS gauges went blank, not even the "S" when the key is turned on. IT has 2 Smis Gauges for a single engine
    1. all electronics working GPS,Sonar, VHF radio ETC.
    2. voltage 14.3
    3.no readout on GPS engine gauges
    4. engine runs great-idle to wot no idea of RPMs
    5. It gets the normal beep when switch goes into ON position
    6. no more problem with "overheat" reading at 134 degrees
    Is there maybe a reset or something quick
    Calling the dealer today,Don't like to be a bother on Sundays
    Engine still under warranty
    Engine ran for 9+ hours yesterday no other issues

  • #2
    My 4" SMIS (=LMF400) gauge did the same thing. No S means the gauge is not booting. I had originally tapped 12V power for my NMEA2000 network (gauge) from a pair of bullet-connector wires on the control harness. When I tapped them, they measured 12V +/-. I liked this setup because it switched the gauge on at the same time I started the engine, which is convenient. About 3 months later my gauge quit booting, though everything else is working fine. I checked the same power wires in the harness and now was getting only about 8V between them, though the battery was still at 12V +/-. I have not yet figured out why this happened. I moved my NMEA power tap from the engine harness to my "accessories" tap directly off the battery. This ensures that the NMEA network is always getting full battery voltage, and now the gauge is working fine again. But I have yet to rig a switch for the gauge power, so now it's always on when my battery is connected.

    First thing I suggest is that you measure the voltage on your NMEA network. You can measure on any of the NMEA connectors, or you can find where your NMEA power cord is connected and measure there. Of course, you could also have blown the fuse for your NMEA network. Have you checked it? Does the backlight on your gauge come on? As I recall, when I had low NMEA supply voltage, my backlight was still working, but the gauge wouldn't boot. The backlight is a simple pair of LEDs which probably work across a broad voltage range, but for the gauge to boot the voltage typically must be within a narrower range (perhaps +/- 10-20%)

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    • #3
      I am confused, all my electronics are hooked up to the backbone on the NMEA network and they show 14 volts of power
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        Perhaps the problem I experienced has no relation to the problem you are seeing. But when my SMIS gauge displays voltage, I believe it is displaying the voltage measured by/at the engine. This is not necessarily the same voltage that is supplying the NMEA network (though in most cases, of course they will be the same). Somewhere in your forest of NMEA TEEs, there is a cable that is connected to the supply power/voltage for the NMEA network. That power cable PROBABLY has an in-line fuse included.

        Where are you seeing your 14.4V reading? Does some gauge show you this voltage, or are you measuring it with a voltmeter?
        Last edited by 2014DF25ARS; 06-27-2016, 01:58 PM. Reason: typo

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        • #5
          Thanks
          Dealer down on the boat now I'll let you know what he finds. I hope this guy outlives me. He is always on top of what happens with this engine.

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          • #6
            Hi John!

            The voltage shown on the other devices (eg sonar, gps) will be their supply voltage, not the network voltage. Remember, they all have separate power supply and only communicate data to and from the network.

            The only devices attached to your network that actually draw their operating power from the network are the SMIS displays. (If you look at the back of them you will see that the only connection is the network plug)

            Let us know what the dealer finds. I suspect a network power failure (bad wire, connector, fuse) especially if the SMIS displays are not turning on at all (no backlight etc).

            Cheers

            Grant

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you for the replies
              It is fixed, I will visit with him to find out what was wrong, He did mention power issue with the network. I will let you all know when I know.
              John

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              • #8
                Good Day Grant
                He found it. Took a bit more than hour, it was a fuse in the Proline harness, He told me I would never have found it. Now I have to watch it for if it happens again we need to find out why!! I think a power surge from the windless. I went on the THT to find out what type of cleaner/protect-ant to use on the wiring, It looks like 20year old wiring back there. a suggestion is Boeshield T9.
                Back in the day we used LPS2 on all aircraft on the carrier, don't know.
                Thanks
                John

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                • #9
                  Good that they found the problem, John.

                  Ive heard that Boeshield is great. I use lanoline spray or grease on my motor and electricals. Works fine too.

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                  • #10
                    Still blowing fuses, Took one SMIS gauge off the NMEA 2000 network(unplugged it, replaced fuse) The other gauge is on but not reading engine data,(blinking) but it does not blow a fuse, so maybe bad gauge. My question is may I take that "T" out and just move everything down on the NMEA line. I want to put a new Tee in there in case it is a bad Tee, I may pick up a few extra and leave them in the truck it's getting ugly back there with soaps and water corrosion.
                    Thanks
                    John

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                    • #11
                      John - yes, you can move T pieces around however you like. Or add one in wherever you want to. The only general rule is to try to keep the T that is for network power supply near the middle of the cluster of T's. But even that is less important on small networks with only 4 or 5 T's.

                      It could well be a bad T. I would try that first. A little smear of dilectric grease on the T before plugged in helps keep water/corrosion at bay.

                      Just remember the one inviolable rule: all devices (eg SMIS displays) must ONLY EVER be connected to the "leg" part of the T piece. Never to the cross-part.

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                      • #12
                        Thank you Grant
                        I replaced the T,no more blown fuse but both gauges are blinking with no data
                        got out the gauge book and looked at the display and the gauge is not reading anything on the network but all my other stuff is on, but not reading engine data.(no dealer this week). I have 2 gauges with one engine, both gauges are plugged into the network and both say nothing plugged in the network.
                        Thanks for any help
                        John

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                        • #13
                          Edit: if gauges are getting powered on but no data, suggests that there is power to the network but no data which indicates another bad T piece somewhere - possibly the one that the interface cable is connected to or one between the interface and the gauges. Swap it out and test again. Then go into gauge menu/network devices. Should see the suzuki listed there.

                          PITA, i know. But sounds like electrical connection gremlins are in there somewhere, maybe more than one place.
                          Last edited by Moonlighter; 07-12-2016, 09:56 PM.

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                          • #14
                            I picked up some contact cleaner and have dielectric grease. Down on the boat after work I'll let you know. It just maybe just something not making good contact. Went out and bounced it around for a hour never stopped blinking. I can put the engine interface anywhere on the back bone??:It's right now on the Tee just before the termination.The Garmin Tees are a little off from the OEM ones that Proline installed.
                            I'll catch hell if wife can't fish this weekend.
                            Thank you
                            John

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                            • #15
                              Yes, you can put the interface on any T piece. Makes no difference.

                              Good luck!

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