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Running without torque tabs

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  • Running without torque tabs

    On a twin 300 ap setup can I run the motors without the torque tabs or install the flush style tabs?
    Will it do any harm to the prop shafts or lower units?

  • #2
    It is normal to run only the flat tabs on twins, trim tabs are not needed due to the offset torque between the motors...hopefully one turns the opposite direction from the other...you still need the flat tabs for corrosion protection

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    • #3
      one correction:
      the directional tabs on newer white DF300AP are painted white thus not offering any sacrificial anode function.
      There are several theories regarding directional tabs on twin setups,
      some say that they are not needed
      some say that they are better for the steering as the engines dont push on the cylinder(s)

      To get a clear statement it would be necessary to measure the force pushing sidewards on different tab positions.

      It is my personal belive that this tiny tab don't make a reasonable difference on a 600 lbs 300 hp engine, but i may be wrong.

      Chris

      P.S: My 2013 DF300AP and my 2016 DF300AP came originaly with painted directional trim tabs
      Last edited by ChrigelKarrer; 06-25-2016, 03:21 AM.

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      • #4
        Chris,
        I have new 300 ap ani can't remember if they are painted ,I will look next time at boat.
        The main reason I was going to remove them is to check if it will help with my harder steering at speed when motors are trimmed up for optimum fuel burn.

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        • #5
          I have hard(d) steering on low speed when i slow down from planing to dislocant at idle speed, but after i am at idle speed steering becomes soft again.

          Your hard steering at high speed may also come from a incorrect toe-in.
          First you should measure (and write down) the distance between the tiny hole for the speedo on the nose of the lower units and the distance between the center of the propeller shafts.

          Then wrench the tie bar some turns in or out and recheck if it becomes better and if speed pick's up.

          Do you have 2 hydraulic pistons or one and a tie bar?

          Checking and purging the hydraulic lines and pistons for air may help too!

          Chris

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          • #6
            I have had the steering system bleed from both steering cylinders. The system is over 10 years old so I may upgrade this year.
            What is the recommended toe setting?
            I have also raw about checking toe by running boat and disconnecting tie bar to find natural running angle.
            Has anyone tried this method?

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            • #7
              I'm not sure if signal tie bar is safe (may depend on speed you do this.

              But I have twin dt140's (both CW rotation) on a cat that steers hard midrange, but is good at idle and top end.

              I have tried adjusting the trim tabs (anodes by props), and went through half a dozen anodes before realizing they don't do squat with torque. All that happened was they disentegrated down to the bolt. I tried many slight adjustments, and the only thing I found, they wear out in one trip to the ocean (40 miles each way), if straight they last, anything other than straight, they start wearing out. Did nothing for torque.

              Good luck.

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