1996 DT150S Overheat buzzer and light problem at low speed and idle.

[N2 Fishing]

I presume the fuel lines are at least close to as old as the engine 1996. The lines are a gray color and are pretty soft in and just outside of the engine cowling.

Do I need any special fuel line? Any suggestions for some good fuel line that won't be too pricey and leave me some money for other needed parts?

Just last month I got a wild hair and decided to look into it. I'm getting the itch to go fishing again. What I found was the O-ring in the bowl was missing. I replaced that and she came to life but I am seeing the bowl does not stay full. I will replace the fuel lines and add a water separator/filter under the hatch before the fuel line goes to the primer bulb.

Do I need special tools to test the fuel pressure or can I use a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight? Just want to make sure I'm getting adequate fuel psi.

Looking for new fuel line to go with a new fuel filter water separator unit. Any suggestions to the above quoted questions?

[N2 Fishing]

Also what about this fuel filter combo. Will this one be good or is there some other style I should be using?

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/p...ribedposts/0/1

[N2 Fishing]

N2
Re fuel pressure test
I am sure you may see other comments on your question
does your manual discuss fuel PSI?


but this was the easiest way I found to check the low pressure pump
remove spark plugs
remove fuel line on the out-go side of the low pressure pump
place a longer section to the fuel pump and put the other end in a quart jar
get someone to help and turn on ignition key to start
you should be getting a very good flow of fuel
plave finger over the end and you should not be able to stop it up should be pushing fuel past your finger
now you are working with raw fuel- treat it accordingly
If that passes the test - you have ruled out the fuel system up to that point
you should be able to also watch the fuel bowl at the same time for any irregularities
Art

I am in the process of figure out what would be the best economical solution for replacing all the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the engine as well as finding the best water separator to install since I don't have one. I may need to replace the hi psi fuel filter as well.

IRCC The manual I have says some thing about testing the fuel psi on the hi psi side at the line between the fuel rail to the injectors and the vapor separator. I'll have to re read that section again.

[Moonlighter]

RACOR make a very good water separating fuel filter. Would be the most popular choice by a long way.

https://ph.parker.com/au/en/marine-fuel-filter-spin-on

[N2 Fishing]

Thank you moonlighter. I guess my link did not work so good earlier. I thought I had one linked from Amazon. The screw on type round filter is probably better than the RACOR FILTER I was trying to link any way. Now I need to figure out what diameter hose I will be needing so I can order both filter and hose.

I just found some fuel line I think should be sufficient. Trident, 305 Series, Type B1-15 Low Permeation O/B Marine Fuel Hose

https://www.go2marine.com/product/38...fuel-hose.html

[N2 Fishing]

Thank you Moonlighter. Do you know the line diameter I need. I think I found some Trident fuel line but need to know the diameter before I order the filter and hose. Trident, 305 Series, Type B1-15 Low Permeation O/B Marine Fuel Hose

[Moonlighter]

10mm is what I use.

[N2 Fishing]

10mm is what I use.

So if you are using 10mm on a Suzuki that would make it roughly 3/8" hose.

[N2 Fishing]

Edit: Does any one know if I have the plastic check valve diaphrams in my low psi pumps. I'm not seeing them in the parts diagram and there is a thread over on the hull truth forum about replacing the low psi pump diaphragms with pictures and I do not see any clear plastic check valves as mentioned in the thread below. Here is a link to the pump rebuild on the hull truth. https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating...uki-150-a.html That forum is not very active.

Putting this here just in-case my low psi pumps need to be rebuilt.

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_p...02_223_su.html

Found that at the link below.

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/f...2017#post22017

[N2 Fishing]

Also regarding my last post about the low psi fuel pumps. I do not see any info in my manuals about testing them or rebuilding them. If I take them apart to inspect the diaphrams will they have to be replaced or can I reuse them if there is nothing wrong with them? I'm thinking out loud. I still have to disconnect the fuel lines from the pumps and crank engine over to see what kind of flow I am getting at the exit side and see what happens in the fuel strainer bowl prior to the low psi pumps.

[N2 Fishing]

I still need to order a fuel filter/water separator but need to know what the flow rate needs to be before I can purchase one. Any one have any idea what the fuel flow rate should be for the DT150S BASS?

You all suggested getting a RACOR but did not specify a model number?

[N2 Fishing]

I just uploaded a video of the primer bulb on my boat. Do ya'll think I need a new primer bulb?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsAC2s3dMOs

[Hoosmatroos]

Looks like it's flowing back so yes. The check balls inside should prevent the flow back. Do you have a problem?

[N2 Fishing]

Problem I am diagnosing for the fuel related issue is the fuel bowl on the engine before the two low psi pumps is not staying full of fuel. I can prime the line till the bulb gets solid and see it get full but does not stay full. Another issue I noticed the other day is fuel dripping out of the throttle body after priming the fuel line to fill the fuel bowl. I’m hoping it is just from over priming the system and not an issue with the float or needle and seat in the vapor separator.

[Solarman]

Generally there should not be fuel leaking anywhere. If fuel is coming out of the throttle body, probably the vent hole near the top, then most probably the needle valve is not stopping the fuel when the float assy is up. This means the needle valve is bad, has trash preventing it closing, or the float adjustment is wrong. If it is trash, try to identify what the trash is, as this may tell you if something else needs to be looked at.

Good luck, post back on what you find out.

Also, this should not have anything to do with your overheating problem.

Good luck.