DF 140- Nothing working!

[redlowrey]

Look carefully at the relay with the piggy backed wires, they should go like this in order, GRAY, WHITE with a piggy backed WHITE WITH RED STRIPE, GRAY piggy backed with a BLACK WITH BLUE STRIPE, then, PINK AND BLACK. When you turn the key on battery voltage will flow from the ignition switch via a gray wire down the loom to the ecm relay, where the GRAY and BLACK AND BLUE PIGGY BACKED WIRES ARE.
The BLACK and BLUE wire goes to the ecu and battery voltage also goes through the relay coil to ground inside the ecu via the PINK and BLACK wire, this in turn turns the relay on closing the main contacts connecting battery voltage to the first gray wire at the relay and powers up the ecu, coils injectors ect.

Hook your test light or volt meter to the white and white and red wires where you had battery voltage, note what the voltage is, press the trim switch on the motor, and see what the voltage drops to.
If it falls to zero, you need to look at the terminal block in between the sixty and thiry anp fuse. Also when you turn the key to the start position there should be battery voltage on the gray wire with the black and blue piggy backed wire, do the same test on the white wire on the starter relay, note the voltage then get some one to turn the key to the start position note the voltage on the white wire, also there should be voltage on the yellow and green striped wire and the red wire, You have battery voltage at both relays like you should have, but whether it stays there with a load is another thing. Pressing the trim switch on the motor will load the circuit on the white with a red strip wire which supplies the trim.

If the battery voltage stays high or the test stays bright when you do the test, Look for the fifteen amp fuse off battery pos or go to your ignition switch and check for battery voltage on the white battery supply wire.
Do them tests and come back on the forum with your results. If you use a fused jumper wire from the white wire on the ecu relay to the gray wire and piggy backed and black and blue wire, you should power up the ecu and the controls, that by passes the ignition switch. be careful. Mate don't get confused with the plain red wire on the starter relay, it gets battery voltage when the key is in the start position.

[bigdummy]

I conduced all tests with "key off", key on" and "start".
There wasn't any variation or fluctuation in any reading. Nothing attempted to work, trim did not draw down at all, and I did not see any voltage at any wire other than those in prior tests.

Checked white wire coming into cowling, showed 5 volts. Removed fuse (which was highly corroded), replaced and verified full (12.9) voltage. Once again conducted all tests to same results.

Went to helm, unplugged wiring harness at key switch- got a .5 volt reading at the white wire contact in the harness end. I do not get voltage on any other wire/contact within that plug/end.
I did not test switch as I figured if no voltage to the end of the harness then the switch couldn't/wouldn't have power.

Want to try jumper as you suggest- what is the maximum size fuse I should use to prevent damage to ECU/wiring?

Thanks for your patience and persistence

[redlowrey]

Just in case you jump the wrong pins on the ecu relay, just apply battery voltage to the gray wire on the ignition switch. With the key on, the dash should come alive and the ecu should come to life. As I said before the ignition feed for the key should come off the battery via a fifteen amp fuse. On the starter motor solenoid, you will see the main battery cable and another short red wire about a quarter inch thick and four inches long that supplies the sixty amp fuse, the trim relay, , red wire, it is bolted to the terminal block, check the voltage there. On the other side of the terminal block it turns white off another bolted fitting which supplies the thirty amp fuse, voltage regulator, and ecm, Starter relay, and trim with battery voltage check there as well. For the trim on the motor not to work sounds like there is a large voltage drop on the terminal block. What sought of test equipment are you using.

[bigdummy]

I am using a digital multimeter (Commercial Electric brand), it's was cheap (probably $30) but not the cheapest one available when purchased. I am electrically illiterate and will gladly acknowledge such. Any advice and insight is always appreciated- no matter how mundane it might appear to you

Behind the key there is a duplex plug with a single gray and single blue wire. Energized the gray wire and the gauges did activate.

Also, in the helm (console actually) and seemingly associated with the gauge wiring (and I assume somehow tied into the entire system) is a 10 amp fuse in a square yellow holder. Fuse checks out as good yet I still replaced as a precaution

Back at the motor I have voltage everywhere you mention as well as anywhere I can check , still nothing works. I traced a fairly heavy red wire (I would guess 8 or 10 gauge) about 7" long to a black rectangular "Box" that is next to and slightly lower than the fuses . It appears this is for the trim and tilt as the wires leaving this go to the trim switch on the cowling. The heavy red wire has voltage as it enters the black box and yet the trim does not work or show any signs of attempting to work as there still isn't any voltage change when the switch is pushed.

[redlowrey]

Did you turn the key to the start position when you applied battery voltage to the gray wire at the ignition switch

[bigdummy]

I did not, only placed in run position. I will try the start position. I didn't want to cause any (additional) damage

[redlowrey]

Connect your jumper wire to where the white wire connects to the switch and you should have power up with key on and cranking in the start position providing your neutral switch is functioning what you are doing is the same as jumping the main control relay only this way you can’t jump the wrong pins

[redlowrey]

Do you have a white fifteen amp fuse holder and a white wire coming off the starter solenoid to a single bullet connector if you do your ignition supply will come from there through the 16 pin connector at the motor up to your key you probably have a bad connection there check both sides of the plug you need to do these tests with a test light with at least a 20 watt globe a multimeter is good but a test light will load the circuit

[bigdummy]

Didn't have a chance to test anything yesterday, will attempt later today.
I will have to trace out the wiring on the solenoid. The "white wire" that accompanies (but is not incorporated into) the main harness does have a 15 amp fuses with bullet connector inside the engine cowling. If I understand correctly this supplies power to ECU, does this also supply the solenoid without going through ECU?

I have also attempted to run continuity tests on wiring harness, however due to working singlehandedly and difficulty in accessing both ends of the harness, this has proving to be nearly impossible without some additional "engineering".
I do have a decent test light, I will double check and attempt to verify my results.

[bigdummy]

I energized the gray wire leaving key switch, motor will turn over. I did not attempt to start or crank for more than the brief test.

At the motor- and using the test light, there is power at all points as before with no dimming of the test globe when pushing the trim switch. Disconnected 16 pin harness (gray square) and there is power to the white wire on the motor side. Reconnected harness and went to helm.

Helm- there isn't a 16 pin connector as at the motor. There is an 8 pin, black round connector that connects to the key switch. The white wire within this connector does NOT have voltage. There is an additional 8 pin, gray, rectangular plug that appears to feed the gauges. I did not get a voltage reading on any contact in this connector. I am making the assumption the harness splits into these two 8 pin connections, however I am unable to determine where that occurs.

I am open to any suggestions and thoughts

[redlowrey]

Mate I am talking about the round 16 pin connection at the motor. Check both sides of the plug the single wire you are talking about with the bullet end will go into and out of the 16 pin round connector up to your 8 pin plug supplying battery voltage to your key pull your covers off so you have better access to the wiring

[redlowrey]

I meant the square plug, I have a 2008 df 140 my ignition feed comes from the + battery cable at the starter motor, through a white lead wire on a 15 amp fuse out of the fuse to a bullet connector into the 16 pin square connector. Battery voltage then goes to the eight pin connector where it splits up, red with white stripe to trim other white to ignition switch, As I said before check both sides of the 16 pin connector.

[bigdummy]

There might have been a design change in wiring
I have a square, 16 pin connector at the motor, Running alongside this and taped onto the square plastic connector is a single white wire with bullet connector. Tracing this single wire it goes from the battery cable junction block located at the transom, into the cowling and connects to fuse block on the motor. It does not enter into the main harness per se. The only fuses I can see within the motor are the 30 amp and 60 amp located on the fuse block.
There is a 15 amp fuse on the single white wire- this fuse is located a few inches away from the battery cable junction block at the transom.
There is a 10 amp fuse up at the helm which has also been checked and replaced as precaution.

At the 16 pin connector at the motor- there is voltage at the white wire on both sides of the gray square connector. At the helm I do not get voltage to ANY wires within the harness

Thanks for your patience and persistence

Thinking about it, might the single white wire be an "add-on" to insure against voltage drop?

[bigdummy]

Red- I owe you an apology. You are correct the white wire does tie in to the 16 pin harness. Once I started pulling back electrical tape and gaining "clear" access I discovered the wires true route.

This again leads me to believe there is a break in wiring within the harness (under the sole) as voltage is detected leaving the motor but not at the helm. I really don't want to start cutting and splicing into the harness unless absolutely necessary (or purchase a new one). Any suggestions to troubleshoot without destructive methods?

[artdf175]

can you get to some of the wiring at the key switch?
when you turn the ket to on, power flies through the MOB switch (safety switch with the lanyard )
these connectors maybe easier to test
did you get yourself a copy of the full Suzuki service manual?
one way I found to check wiring is to take a good needle and push into the questionable colored wire and use that as your test point
another way is to push the end of your test probe in the back of the connecror where the wire is inserted
Red is a very good mechanic - read his directions again
Art