DF 140- Nothing working!

[bigdummy]

Just "acquired" this boat and motor. Been sitting on my property for almost two years, have been given possession
2007 Df140 mounted on Triumph 195 . ran fine when parked. Not sure what, if any maintenance was conducted at that time

Charged batteries, they read 13.3 volts, have 13.2 volts at starter and yet I have nothing, nada, zip, zero of anything working. Gauges don't energize, starter doesn't click, no fuel pump and trim doesn't engage at binnacle or on motor- it's like the motor doesn't exist!
I read the "white wire" sticky thought that was the problem, found what I believe to be white wire (there is a battery cable junction block near the transom and it's connected there), when I disconnect the bullet connector on the white wire at the front of the motor I get 12.9 volts

I've never owned a Suzuki before, I have done minor maintenance on a 50 Suzuki my hunt club had, but otherwise have no experience with these motors. Even worse, very little experience on any four stroke, fuel injected outboards.

Any suggestions or guidance is greatly appreciated

[noelm007]

Start with a known good battery and work towards the motor, eliminating isolation switches and anything else as you go, then start with fuses.

[D'oh999]

The Tether Cord connected?

Then the Fuses in the Fuse Block.

Then here. https://www.suzukimarine.com.au/outb...h-performance/

[D'oh999]

https://www.suzukimarine.com.au/know...entre/manuals/

Sorry Here!

[bigdummy]

Thanks for responses.

I will go check the link you've provided. Until then a few thoughts I've had.

I've checked all the fuses I can find -white wire 15 amp, 30 and 60 on motor.
I have voltage to motor - took relays (I think they're relays) out from behind computer (?) (black 4" square box with a lot of wires coming out of the bottom) have voltage at white wire in the plug of relay, none on the red wire though.

Jumped solenoid on starter and starter spins but doesn't attempt to engage (sounds a little weak so maybe batteries are dropping amps) but nothing even attempts to work

Could it be the main wiring harness has gone bad? The top half of the console tilts back for access, when titled all the wiring is rather "snug", thinking maybe there is a chafed/ broken wire.

Is there a test point somewhere on the motor that might shed some light on this problem?

Again thanks for any thoughts and input

[bigdummy]

Gentlemen,
I would like assistance to determine the model motor I am have, plus the correct wiring harness to fit the motor.
On the parts page four (4) models of df 140 are listed, all have the same serial number range of which this motor falls within the range. However I haven't seen any identifier on the motor of the model.
On the engine bracket there exists one (1) metal tag stamped "DF140" ,below that "14001F-780789".
While searching the parts page for the main wiring harness I am given three (3) options, however no description differentiates the models. Is this a length code or is there a significant difference unique to each application?

Thanks again for your help

[artdf175]

the white wire goes through the key switch back to the ECM
the ECM has to power up or nothing else will
make sure you find the inline fuse on that wire
check the safety switch that the lanyard clips into at the remote pull it out several times
check for power there when you turn the key to on

[bigdummy]

White wire is powered - ring end that was used to connect it to junction block was corroded so I replaced, stripped wire back to clean copper and replaced inline fuse. I have 13.2 volts inside of cowling at bullet connector

I've cycled safety lanyard several times. I will check for power there- I do not believe I have power there because nothing in that area has power (way boat is rigged it is very difficult to test anything -tight quarters and all wiring is very snug/short).

I'm starting to think that the tight wiring has created a break in the main harness.

The boat is a Triumph (Roplene?) and the top half of the console tilts for access- however once tilted wiring become exceedingly tight nd there isn't enough room to get two hands into the space needed to test. Pulling key switch out the front of the console yields same result for working room in regards to wiring.

Starting to think I should resolve this with a $2 solution (For Sale Cheap sign)!

Thanks again- any and all suggestions appreciated (well almost all suggestions)

[artdf175]

can you get to the wiring harness connection?
the white wire goes into the remote and the key switch but after the lanyard it comes out different color to the ECM
I think it's gray but if you can get to the harness I will look up what wire it is heading to the ECM
then an easy way to test wires is to push a straight pin into the wire

[bigdummy]

I can get to harness- no extra slack, but I can unplug/access the harness(es) with much patience (little of which I possess at times)
If you have the time to verify colors and suggest a test that would be great.

Thank You

[artdf175]

the gray wire should feed back from the key to the ECM
double check the ground as well take the connections apart and clean both ends

[redlowrey]

Thanks for responses.

I will go check the link you've provided. Until then a few thoughts I've had.

I've checked all the fuses I can find -white wire 15 amp, 30 and 60 on motor.
I have voltage to motor - took relays (I think they're relays) out from behind computer (?) (black 4" square box with a lot of wires coming out of the bottom) have voltage at white wire in the plug of relay, none on the red wire though.

Jumped solenoid on starter and starter spins but doesn't attempt to engage (sounds a little weak so maybe batteries are dropping amps) but nothing even attempts to work

Could it be the main wiring harness has gone bad? The top half of the console tilts back for access, when titled all the wiring is rather "snug", thinking maybe there is a chafed/ broken wire.

Is there a test point somewhere on the motor that might shed some light on this problem?

Again thanks for any thoughts and input

''''''''''''''''''You won't get any battery voltage on the red wire until you try and start the engine and it is in neutral, go to the other relay and check if there is battery voltage on the white and red wire, and the white wire, the white and red supplies battery voltage to the trim, and the white wire supplies battery voltage to the ecu. When the key is turned on, providing there is no problems, battery voltage will flow back to the relay via a gray wire through the relay coil to ground inside the ecu, pink and black, that pulls the main contacts together in the relay and black and blue sensing wire goes to the ecu. So if there is no power on the white and white and red wire work back towards the thirty amp fuse, check both sides of the fuse, There is a terminal block between the thirty and sixty amp fuse I wouldn't mind betting that is where the problem is.

If the problem was at the key end from no supply off the fifteen amp fuse off the battery, your trim would still work from the motor and not at the console, you don't need a wiring loom simple fix.

[noelm007]

I think you are jumping from place to place just guessing, trouble shoot methodically as mentioned in various posts, get a known good battery too for testing, a simple voltage check is not adequate.

[bigdummy]

Thanks for the information and guidance.
If I interpret correctly- check relays for power on both sides.
Red wire supplies power trim
White wire supplies engine/ECM
Check terminal block between fuses- Is this simply a "holder" of sorts or does it provide actual conductivity between fuses.

Boat has two new batteries onboard charger that maintains charge- constantly have 13.2 plus volts

In summary-I should be troubleshooting the engine to verify completion of electrical power to all necessary components. Then check key switch/harnesses if no success

I truly appreciate the invaluable advice everyone is providing

[bigdummy]

Did a check a minutes ago, here are my results

There are two (2) relays I believe. The forwardmost (toward bow of boat) has four (4) wires-
solid white,
solid red,
solid green,
yellow with green stripe.
Solid white has voltage (with and without key on), no others have voltage

rear relay has contains seven (7) wires piggybacked to four terminals as follows :
(2 white w/ red stripe piggybacked),
(2 gray piggybacked),
(1 black 1 gray piggybacked),
one pink(ish)
White w/ red stripe has voltage, no others have voltage

Voltage to both fuses (60 and 30 amp), both fuses check as good

When saying "red wire won't get voltage until trying to start motor"- does that mean key turned on (as in one click) or the key has to be engaged as if trying to crank the engine over? If this is the case I will need an assistant to check.

Also I am trying to determine the best method to check terminal block between fuses. I'm not sure how/where its mounted (I'm disconnecting as little as possible each time) and best way to troubleshoot.

Thanks again and your patience is certainly appreciated